This page shows how the motor will sit in the car if you use the stock mounting positions.
This is how close to the firewall and brake booster things will be. The water neck and CAS sensor are also close (or touching). Even if you could get it to fit, it would be so tight that you would have to take the motor out to remove the intake manifold, CAS sensor, thermostat or brake booster! It's just too much. And that is when it is sitting nice and still in there. Driving around with a motor moving around would cause some serious problems. Not cool.
Because of all of the interference, it is good to move the engine forward. The chassis is setup for this particular change. Where the transmission crossmember bolts to the chassis, there are 8 holes. Four on each side. This allows for moving the mount forward 2" or back 2.35". This is how we get 2 inches as our magical number!
If you don't want the trouble of modifying the firewall and all that other stuff you can make adapter plates and extend the driveshaft 2". The plates are very simple. There are 2 sets of holes per side. Two of the holes bolt the plate to the crossmember, 2 of them to bolt the plates to mounts. Because one of the bolts needs to lie under the motor mount, it is important to counterbore the hole. Here is a closeup that might help you to understand.
I used only a table saw, drill press and a file to make them. So they should be easy enough for anyone to make.
© 2006 Bowman Cybernetics