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This motor is totally gay. That's why I'm putting
it in my car. Its out of my '90 GST. I think
the specs are like this:
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Okay... so maybe the specs are exactly like that since
this is straight out of the Factory Service Manual.
If you need a copy I can probably get it to you ('90
talon manual w/ Electrical too). Just hit me up on
AIM or something. As for horsepower the engine comes
from the factory rated at 195HP @ 6000 RPM while
torque peaks at 203ft/lbs @ 3000 RPM. There
is lots of aftermarket support for this motor and there
are motors available everywhere. Hell.. I bought a
whole DSM for $450. I don't doubt that I will see
300+ HP by next summer (if it lasts that long).
Some DSMs can do 450HP on the stock bottom end.
Well over 1000HP with upgraded internals and good
workmanship.
This motor was offered only in FWD as far as I know.
There were some odd usages of it though. Oddly
enough the Starion was the original car to have the
venerable 4G63 2.0. But didn't the Starion only
have the 2.6 G54B? That's only in North America.
In places like Japan, Europe and Australia there was an
optional 2.0L SOHC 12 Valve motor. It was the wide
pattern 4G63. This would be an easy way to upgrade
if you were doing a full rebuild and could locate the
block.
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Another RWD "4G63" was the SOHC carbureted G63B found
in the Mitsubishi MightyMax small truck (aka Dodge D50).
This has the "narrow" 4G63 block and therefore has a
narrow bellhousing on the transmission. Speaking
of transmissions and bellhousings... Click
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Motor Mounts |
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People have been really interested in what motor mounts
I used. It's really not that difficult at all.
I used 2 right (narrower) mounts off of a Starion
which I had to re-drill 1 hole. You could also use
MightyMax mounts. Whatever is cheapest.
The real issue for mounting the engine is running
into things. Look here
if you don't believe me that it is tight... too tight.
You can move the motor back 2" from stock, keep it at
the stock spot, or move it forward 2". This is
done by making adapter plates for the motor. The
holes are already in place for mounting the transmission
in any of these 3 positions.
If you want to bang in your firewall you can just
bolt the motor to the mounts and bolt the mounts to the
car. You will also need to worry about
the waterneck and CAS
hitting the firewall and clearing the steering box and
brake booster. You'd almost have to make your own
intake manifold or raise the motor up a few inches and
cut off the back of the manifold.
If you don't want to fuck with your firewall and all
that other stuff you can make adapter plates and extend
the driveshaft 2". The plates are very simple.
There are 2 sets of holes per side. Two of the
holes bolt the plate to the crossmember, 2 of them to
bolt the plates to mounts. The hole that lies
beneath the motor mount will need to be countersunk
enough to not hit the mount. If you countersink it
just the right amount that it slightly touches the mount
this will also lock the bolt in... or you could use
locktight. |
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They're neat. Click the photo for a close up.
I made them out of 6061 Aluminum... billet baby! I
used only a table saw, drill press and a file to make
them... I think there was some crazy bit I got from dad
that I used to counter sink a bolt hole. It was
awesomely sharp unlike all my other shitty bits. |
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Intake Manifold |
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If you're using the stock intake, this is the place to
look. I can't tell you what to do if you use one
other than stock. Anyways. If you picked to
move the motor forward 2", all you need to do is bolt or
weld a plate over the one end of the manifold.
Then you'll need a flange for the other side. I
actually extended it a little bit. You really just
need to look at it yourself and figure out what is best
for you to do. I tilted mine trying to aim it
towards where I wanted my intercooler pipes would go.
It really doesn't matter. Just be aware that it
needs to be switched :-D. I also had to remove some
junk from the brace under the intake. I did this
with a cold chissel and a grinder. There still may
be some rubbing from the gearbox. I'll make
revisions after some street time. I don't see it
causing any major problems. |
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Because you now have this big throttle body on the front
of your intake manifold you will realize that your coil
packs are stuck forever unless you saw your manifold
apart. At least that looks like how it would have
been on my car. So one thing I recommend is moving
the coil packs somewhere else. On the Starion
there just happens to be a convenient place close by
that just seems so right. The plate that the
igniter box was bolted to is an excellent place to mount
the coil packs. I used a thin, long bolts to bolt
the coil packs to an aluminum plate. I also
used rubber hose on the bolts to act as vibration
isolators. TThe wires on the harness will also
reach here without extending anything. You will
need plug wires other than the DSM ones because they are
too short to reach the coil packs. I used my 8mm
Accel wires off of the Starion. |
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Turbo Rotation |
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The turbo needs to be turned around 180 degrees so that
the inlet faces the front of the car instead of the
firewall. Alex from Dentsport thinks
otherwise :-D, and it probably made his swap simpler
in the long run (wastegate and oil/water lines).
Rotating the turbine housing in relation to the
compressor housing will make using the stock wastegate
actuator very difficult to use. I ended up using a
35mm external wastegate.
Rotating the housing around also means that you need
to rotate your center cartrige in relation to your
turbine housing. You want the oil drain to face
straight down. This is very simple and only
involves the clamp on the turbo and removing a little
pin.
Depending on how you want to run you
intercooler hoses, you might
want to rotate you compressor housing. To do this
you will need to remove the BIG C-clip with some pliers
and a friend. Then you need to use a small round
file (chainsaw sharpening file) to make a new slot for
the pin on the cartrige. Be sure to mark
everything and not hit the O-ring with the file. |
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This is the easy and big stuff. Now on to the
little important and obnoxious things...
the Plumbing. |
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