exhaust header?

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blue_crush
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exhaust header?

Post by blue_crush »

looking for a top mount, stainless steel header. Or a good suggestion on a bottom mount that i can cut the head mount flange off and flip, then reweld.
88 Conquest (drag)
95 Nissan 240sx (drift/autocross)
95 Dakota
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DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

This falls under the DIY category as far as I know. I guess this means that I should at least make a jig. I'll see what I can come up with, but it might take all summer.
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
S0LJAH
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Post by S0LJAH »

is there anything stoping you turning the turbo 180 degress on the stock manifold?

i have considered doing this with my car and other than the oil and water lines not matching up, custom ones would fix that

i cant see any reason why it shouldnt work,
exhaust flange seems to line up well?or is that an illusion and it seems to just clear my steering box by a couple of mm
S0LJAH
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Post by S0LJAH »

mattmartindrift wrote:
However, that being said, we have turned an evo3 16g 180* on mike's old street car.
so it can be done then?

would save me alot of cash rather than getting a custom exhaust manifold made up

is it as simple as just turning it round and getting custom water/oil lines?
screemin eagle
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Post by screemin eagle »

Yes just rotate the turbo 180 deg and make custom oil and water lines
88 conquest 4g63 now sporting a crankwalked boat anchor
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Can somebody source me some exhaust tubing for a header?

I checked out my SS flange. The ports are obviously ovals. The Width is 53mm the height is 35mm. The circumference of the oval is 146mm. If you took a pipe with a 1 7/8" O.D. and crushed it down into an oval and did some grinding you could get a tight fit into the flange.

What kind of wall thickness should we work with? What size I.D. would be good for a head with stock exhaust ports? I'd be happier giving up performance for reliability. I'd give up horsepower for faster spool. A log manifold would be fine. If I use Schedule 40 pipe, I doubt I could get it hot enough to smash a round pipe into an oval.

How should I do this?
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
89coltgt
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Post by 89coltgt »

Alot of guys use the sch 10 pipe, it's about 1/8" wall thickness.
blue_crush
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Post by blue_crush »

that manifold looks good. nobody knows of any i can cut and flip?
or a good web site that i can get all the bends to make my own.
88 Conquest (drag)
95 Nissan 240sx (drift/autocross)
95 Dakota
92 Colt HB
ShaggyZ
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Post by ShaggyZ »

You cut and flip any of them :roll:
Here's one: http://dsmparts.com/customer/product.ph ... at=&page=1
Buy, cut, flip, weld, install.
89coltgt
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Post by 89coltgt »

You can buy weld ells from Mc Master Carr.
blue_crush
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Post by blue_crush »

thanx for the info. i think i found one.
88 Conquest (drag)
95 Nissan 240sx (drift/autocross)
95 Dakota
92 Colt HB
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

$ 7.18 304 Stainless Sch 10 2.25" radius Bend, 1.9" O.D. .109" wall = 1.682" I.D.: 45735K215
$40.27 304 Stainless Sch 10 1.5" radius Bend, 1.9" O.D. .109" wall = 1.682" I.D.: 45735K323
$17.31 for 12" of 304 Stainless Sch 10 pipe 1.9" O.D. .109" wall = 1.682" I.D.: 4347K351

I guess I'll be sticking with the more sweeping bend. Is 1.68" I.D. too big for a 2.4L turbo engine?

Somebody draw one up in cad!
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Bill Hincher
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Post by Bill Hincher »

if you guys know how you want the tubing bent up, I would be glad to help you with the bends, I have an exhaust bender as well as a thickwall tubing bender
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

If I can get a prototype tacked up by the meet I'll just leave it with you so you can see what you need to do.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

I ordered some pipes and t's from Ace Stainless. Cheaper than MCMasterCarr too.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Here is what I've got so far. O.D. of the pipe is a little bigger than the I.D. of the manifold and the oval isn't perfect. So this calls for my little friend the die grinder. Might take a while to get it right, but it should be pretty snug when its all fitted up.

Image
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Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Bill Hincher
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Location: Toledo,Ohio
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Post by Bill Hincher »

Its good to see you back at fabricating, DJ dont forget to allow some room for the dry sump system, I want to mount it on the exhaust side, I have the pumps and I have the tester built
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

The engine the dry sump will go on is not going to have turbo ;-)
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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