exhaust header?
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blue_crush
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exhaust header?
looking for a top mount, stainless steel header. Or a good suggestion on a bottom mount that i can cut the head mount flange off and flip, then reweld.
88 Conquest (drag)
95 Nissan 240sx (drift/autocross)
95 Dakota
92 Colt HB
95 Nissan 240sx (drift/autocross)
95 Dakota
92 Colt HB
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DJpowerHaus
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This falls under the DIY category as far as I know. I guess this means that I should at least make a jig. I'll see what I can come up with, but it might take all summer.

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
is there anything stoping you turning the turbo 180 degress on the stock manifold?
i have considered doing this with my car and other than the oil and water lines not matching up, custom ones would fix that
i cant see any reason why it shouldnt work,
exhaust flange seems to line up well?or is that an illusion and it seems to just clear my steering box by a couple of mm
i have considered doing this with my car and other than the oil and water lines not matching up, custom ones would fix that
i cant see any reason why it shouldnt work,
exhaust flange seems to line up well?or is that an illusion and it seems to just clear my steering box by a couple of mm
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screemin eagle
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DJpowerHaus
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Can somebody source me some exhaust tubing for a header?
I checked out my SS flange. The ports are obviously ovals. The Width is 53mm the height is 35mm. The circumference of the oval is 146mm. If you took a pipe with a 1 7/8" O.D. and crushed it down into an oval and did some grinding you could get a tight fit into the flange.
What kind of wall thickness should we work with? What size I.D. would be good for a head with stock exhaust ports? I'd be happier giving up performance for reliability. I'd give up horsepower for faster spool. A log manifold would be fine. If I use Schedule 40 pipe, I doubt I could get it hot enough to smash a round pipe into an oval.
How should I do this?
I checked out my SS flange. The ports are obviously ovals. The Width is 53mm the height is 35mm. The circumference of the oval is 146mm. If you took a pipe with a 1 7/8" O.D. and crushed it down into an oval and did some grinding you could get a tight fit into the flange.
What kind of wall thickness should we work with? What size I.D. would be good for a head with stock exhaust ports? I'd be happier giving up performance for reliability. I'd give up horsepower for faster spool. A log manifold would be fine. If I use Schedule 40 pipe, I doubt I could get it hot enough to smash a round pipe into an oval.
How should I do this?

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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blue_crush
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You cut and flip any of them 
Here's one: http://dsmparts.com/customer/product.ph ... at=&page=1
Buy, cut, flip, weld, install.
Here's one: http://dsmparts.com/customer/product.ph ... at=&page=1
Buy, cut, flip, weld, install.
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blue_crush
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DJpowerHaus
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$ 7.18 304 Stainless Sch 10 2.25" radius Bend, 1.9" O.D. .109" wall = 1.682" I.D.: 45735K215
$40.27 304 Stainless Sch 10 1.5" radius Bend, 1.9" O.D. .109" wall = 1.682" I.D.: 45735K323
$17.31 for 12" of 304 Stainless Sch 10 pipe 1.9" O.D. .109" wall = 1.682" I.D.: 4347K351
I guess I'll be sticking with the more sweeping bend. Is 1.68" I.D. too big for a 2.4L turbo engine?
Somebody draw one up in cad!
$40.27 304 Stainless Sch 10 1.5" radius Bend, 1.9" O.D. .109" wall = 1.682" I.D.: 45735K323
$17.31 for 12" of 304 Stainless Sch 10 pipe 1.9" O.D. .109" wall = 1.682" I.D.: 4347K351
I guess I'll be sticking with the more sweeping bend. Is 1.68" I.D. too big for a 2.4L turbo engine?
Somebody draw one up in cad!

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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Bill Hincher
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DJpowerHaus
- Sir Post A Lot
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DJpowerHaus
- Sir Post A Lot
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DJpowerHaus
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Here is what I've got so far. O.D. of the pipe is a little bigger than the I.D. of the manifold and the oval isn't perfect. So this calls for my little friend the die grinder. Might take a while to get it right, but it should be pretty snug when its all fitted up.





Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
-
Bill Hincher
- Donating Member
- Posts: 1625
- Joined: Thu Jun 22, 2006 8:57 pm
- Location: Toledo,Ohio
- Contact:
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DJpowerHaus
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