bellhousings finished for R-154 7/20/2007

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Mon May 21, 2007 11:26 pm

just letting you guys know whats going on, I am workin

ShaggyZ · Post by **ShaggyZ** » Wed May 23, 2007 11:17 am

Lookin' very cool, Bill. Thanks for all the quality updates you do. I'm getting very excited about purchasing one.

Do you intend to test fit all the bellhousings before sending them out? I imagine you know a bit about quality control but I thought I'd ask.

Josh

Ever notice that BH can equal "bellhousing" OR "Bill Hincher?"

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Wed May 23, 2007 12:33 pm

I tried to find a way to make bellhousings as a production line but I havent been able to make exact duplicates, some of the reason is because of the jig and some of the reason is because each casting is done by hand, so each bellhousing is NOT exactly the same. As it stands right now each bellhousing is built like a carpenter builds a house, one at a time, each one measured and modified to each ones unique needs, they are all bolted to a 4G63 engine with a complete clutch / flywheel set up and the throw out bearing is tested on each housing to make sure it disengages the clutch properly . and a dial indicator is used to test correct tolerance for input shaft centering
I am VERY happy with this housing, I cant tell you how many hours of extra time the original w-55 bellhousings took to machine because of mistakes made in the original casting. I have been on a huge learning curve
The r-154 housing is soooooooooo much closer to tolerance that it only takes a few hours of machine work to make a nice unit. this housing is stronger and lighter than prevous works
I almost forgot the w-55 bellhousings but I still have many requests for them, so I am going to re-invest into them so they fit the second gens and the EVO's.
I have two engineers from hydromatic ( transmission division of GM) who are helping me with the drawings and the jigs and I spoke to a pattern maker about the new patterns, its gonna be about $5000.00 grand for the pattern so that each housing is exactly the same. IF I have the patterns made , it will cut the cost per housing by half and boost the quality by the same amount
I also spoke to the pattern makers about the intake manifold, I should be moving on that soon, but first I need to complete the work on the cooling systems I have mapped out

(NA)turalyRWD · Post by **(NA)turalyRWD** » Wed May 23, 2007 2:11 pm

I do believe i missed something somewhere. I thaught you used the same bellhousing just an adapter for the r-154? Hmm.. someone fill me in now im a little confused on what i need when my engine comes in?

Garrett
P.S. Great work Bill!

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Wed May 23, 2007 4:24 pm

yeah, i made some adaptors and stuff and sent them out , but they were heavy and just didnt FEEL right.

everytime you make a conector that makes a connector you just make more places to break, so I scrapped that idea and just made two different bellhousings, one for the w-55 through 58 and one for the r-154 and while I was at it , jeff ball sent me a plate for the second gen engine so I made my bellhousings to fit that motor too and then I found the EVO pattern different so I built that in too

Its all the same stuff, its just blossoming into a better product every time

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Wed May 23, 2007 7:00 pm

its already there kane
pound for pound the 4g63 puts out more power then a small block chevy with less expense and work,
look at pergine's hot rod, perfect balance, perfect wieght to power ratio, good gas milage, good turning balance
wake up hot rodders, the turbo 4 cylinder is here folks and its kwel!

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 9:55 pm

my camera is giving me some trouble zooming in but this is the work I been doing, its perfect, its just perfect >;o)

I still have to drill my side mounts but they look like a good fit

with the front of the R 154 bolted to the bellhousing its is within 1/2 thousands tolerance

with these extra brakets, the strength should be rock solid without any wieght gain

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 5:38 pm

I got the housings pretty well worked out, but I gotta build the spacer plate and drill the side mounts, I just keep working at making tools and patterns so I can get them all the same, I gotta get one out to Jeff ball and Corey first, then I will get one to you Smog

I made a video of the work and the details needed on the w-55 trans, if anybody wants one, they are freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

starring ME and my wonder dawg, manfred

dsmpilot · Post by **dsmpilot** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 1:26 am

Truly amazing stuff!

. I was going to pick up a wide block G63B this weekend for my RWD project. Do i still need it? I've got a spare 4G63 sittin in the garage waiting to be built. How much does the r154's go for anyways? Used T-56's go for about a grand.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 7:20 am

The R-154 sells for $455.00, everything is going great, I applied for a patent this week, before I sent them out, but they are dead nutz perfect

the R-154 can go anywhere from $300.00 to $800.00 from what I been seeing

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 7:31 pm

look up car-part.com and find what you need close to you

http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

dsmpilot · Post by **dsmpilot** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 10:11 pm

Bill Hincher wrote:look up car-part.com and find what you need close to you

http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

Thanks for the quick reply guys! I checked out carpart.com and the closest place to me wanted $750. I'm really debating between the r-154 and the t-56. Can you guys throw in some pros and cons?
R 154 Pro's;
1) Cheap (er)
2) dsm fwd flywheel
3) stock toyota 9" clutch disk
4) get to use a custom bullet proof bell housing
R 154 Con's;
1) not as plentiful as domestic trans
2) maybe parts for rebuild will be higher due to being an import?

T-56 Pro's;
1) plentiful
2) more shops would know how to work on them
3) parts are cheaper?
4) 11" disc

5) stronger trans due to higher TQ & HP of cars stock with this trans
6) 6 speed

T-56 con's;
1) costly, around $600-$700 more than r-154 swap
2) nobody makes adapter plate for narrow block 4G63 (yet)

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 10:31 pm

If you're going to spend $2000 on a transmission setup, why not spend the $600 extra on getting a wideblock and doing a build/rebuild?

(this is how getting in over your head gets started.. ask me how I found out)

dsmpilot · Post by **dsmpilot** » Wed Jun 13, 2007 10:56 pm

DJpowerHaus wrote:If you're going to spend $2000 on a transmission setup, why not spend the $600 extra on getting a wideblock and doing a build/rebuild?

(this is how getting in over your head gets started.. ask me how I found out)

I plan on getting that wide block on friday, i already took it apart previously, theres only 2 bolts holdin it on. Why on friday? Fathers day sale, half off, 50 bucks for a short block

. Right next to that truck sits a 96 crown vic. Right after i pull that wide block ima snag that 8.8 rear end with disc brakes, 50 bucks for that too

Yes, i'm starting to get in over my head! I spend my days off at the junkyard. Even the cashiers remember me now

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Thu Jun 21, 2007 6:29 am

this is MY EVOLUTION!

screemin eagle · Post by **screemin eagle** » Thu Jun 21, 2007 9:28 am

its lookin sexy Bill

dsmpilot · Post by **dsmpilot** » Sat Jun 23, 2007 7:37 pm

Shweeeeet

That bellhousing is lookin more and more refined every time you post up.

ShaggyZ · Post by **ShaggyZ** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 4:37 pm

Bill, would you give me an explicit explanation of where you are in regards to selling the stock you have now (the ten you got back from the mold shop recently).

I thought you were starting to sell them as you prepped them (drilled holes, etc) but after some of your posts and the comments of a few people here, it sounds like you haven't actually sold any of them or that these are basically more test bellhousings.

Sorry, I'm a little dense sometimes.... or maybe it's just that I'm entirely too literal, as my mother says.

THanks,
Josh

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Mon Jun 25, 2007 8:55 pm

I am sorry, I had my head up my ass lately.
I have been under siege with the W-55 series housings , I worked day and night machining them out and have sold all of them I had, I am re casting now and I am working with Big Al in Florida to include EVO model option.

I have two housings drilled and ready for the R-154, I will be glad to send you one, PM me and lets put it together

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 11:30 am

I thought I would recap my last years work on bellhousings, the old website keeps loosing all my pic's, so here is the trail to the R-154 bellhousing.
I started out by cutting up my W-55 pattern

the facing was made wider to accept the R-154

I had cut the front end off a R 154 trans to make my pattern

and then I finished out this casting that was designed to interchange with the W-55 and the R-154 using an adaptor

I sent my pattern out to be casted

the shop run off 5 housings to try out

Then I started work on the adaptor that would allow the W-55 housing to work on the R-154

This was my first attempt to fit the R-154 to the 4G63 engine, it looked nice and worked, but it was HEAVY and I just didnt like it

so I cut the back off the new casting and thinned it out until I got an even, thick, yet light wall for my one piece R154 bellhousing

I welded the adaptor to the back of the new lighter housing

I put these gussest in twice, the first time they were straight and I thought that was nice for up and down strength,but what about the torque?, so I went back and put them all in at an angle to absorb the extra horsepower

the throw out bearing collar had to be mounted in the bellhousing, because the existing Toyota set up was way too short, the throw out bearing would have fell off the end of the collar at full stroke, so after the gussets were put in place ,this center was put in to hold the new throw out bearing collar

I made the ribs on the outside of the bellhousing with 5/16 aluminum rod welded to the sides of the housing and then filled them in with bondo. I made sure to include a bolt mount for the second gen 4G63 and a set of lower mounts to be included in the bellhousing kit, and just for style points, I included an air vent at the top to vent heat

This is my first R-154 one piece casting, the guys did a great job, I hate to get them dirty when I machine them

I get a flat surface on the engine side of the bellhousing first and then machine out the holes to bolt up to the 4G63

After the holes are drilled and the housings are bolted to the engine, the front plate of the R-154 trans is bolted ( lightly) on to the face of the bellhousing, a dial indicator is attached to the crankshaft of the engine and spun in the center bearing hole of the trans plate

and the last peice of the puzzle is when I dial in the front trans pate, the guide pins are now marked and drilled to within a half a thousands

turbosigma · Post by **turbosigma** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 5:09 pm

COOL - works of art - now just need to get a few sent down here

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 7:47 pm

I dig your rides , turboman, quit reffering to them as crap, or I will have to come down under with a bellhousing under each arm and party with you !

kid lancer 7 · Post by **kid lancer 7** » Fri Jul 13, 2007 12:32 am

bill how much does one of the adaptors weigh?? i need to know for shipping purposes

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Fri Jul 13, 2007 8:19 am

on average, the kit wieghs 20 lbs, shipping prices are all over the board, I ship to British Columbia, its 20.00 bucks, I ship to Austin texas, its $50.00 bucks, I think its the price of fuel that makes it jump around so much

what do you think of the housing Turbo Shag?

ShaggyZ · Post by **ShaggyZ** » Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:52 am

Bill Hincher wrote:on average, the kit wieghs 20 lbs, shipping prices are all over the board, I ship to British Columbia, its 20.00 bucks, I ship to Austin texas, its $50.00 bucks, I think its the price of fuel that makes it jump around so much

what do you think of the housing Turbo Shag?

Actually, I haven't been able to check it out yet. I've been in the middle of moving to a new house for the past week so it's just sitting in the box in my new garage behind the new 280Z I got (not the one I showed you) next to the R154 I scored for free.

I've been meaning to check it out and report for you, but...

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Fri Jul 13, 2007 8:11 pm

take your time, I just feel like an expectant father

SPOOLD U · Post by **SPOOLD U** » Mon Jul 30, 2007 11:49 pm

out of curiousity, is there any aftermarket for this trans, the R154? After seeing the other thread on the LT1 T56 bell housing i'm trying to decide what I want for my conquest project. Trying to figure out which route will be easier for a setup that should be pushing 800+whp.

SPOOLD U · Post by **SPOOLD U** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 4:59 pm

smog wrote:im assuming you will be drag racing? If so it seems like it would be better to just go with a auto.

But there are a few companies out there making gears for the transmission.

http://hioctaneracing.com.au/eshop/prod ... cts_id=528

OS Gikan also makes a gear setup I think close ration for 1 2 3

actually, while i plan on drag racing.. it's mainly going to be a toy for the street. something to play with the bikes and supras on the highway.

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Fri Aug 10, 2007 10:51 pm

Matt just bought a Magnesium 4 spd NASCAR transmission that's probably stronger than most japanese options for only $1000. Not sure how much a RX7 dog box is, but I reckon you could make a NASCAR/custom bellhousing setup cheaper and it'd be stronger and easier to find parts for.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Sat Aug 11, 2007 2:23 am

its all over kill,
the t-56 and or the R-154 can handle more horsepower than the lower engine block can, save your money and concentrate on a good clutch and making the trans shift smooth.

dont forget your car is pretty light and your tires are not that big to gain enough traction to bust transmisions. you gotta rev the engine to the sky and throw the clutch out the window to produce enough torque to break anything.

after you get one of these transmisions, the next weakest link will start showing up and it will prabably be in the rear end and/or driveshaft

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 10:01 pm

Just incase you guys thought I was 'resting' I thought I would show you the finished system I am selling now

I had wanted to build this test stand for a long time now

I have added a custom made seperater plate included with the kits

Finally I feel much better about an 8 bolt system to bolt the bellhousing up to the engine, if you guys are gonna make horsepower, this is the way to go

I will be using this same bolt up system on DSMpilot's T-56 work has started on that now

I been moving into this shop for the last two years, when I am not working on the housings I keep fixing up my workspace

Remember? this is what it all started as

75COLT · Post by **75COLT** » Fri Aug 17, 2007 11:36 pm

great work Bill, can't wait to set mine up. By the way, what kind of great american vehicle is that in the back round of one of those pics?

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Sat Aug 18, 2007 11:30 pm

Hi Ian,
Thats a 1957 Ford Fairlane 500, that sucked a valve this spring and I havent been able to finish it yet

dsmpilot · Post by **dsmpilot** » Sun Aug 19, 2007 12:06 am

That shop is coming along nicely

That stand looks like part of a lathe

Great job Bill!

t2fastalon · Post by **t2fastalon** » Wed Aug 29, 2007 9:12 am

smog wrote:
btw, anyone know of a dsm forum that you can post in the wanted and forsale section without having to have 500 f'n posts. Preferably one with northwest people.

http://buschurforums.com/forum/

www.dsmtrader.com

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Wed Aug 29, 2007 1:46 pm

yeah Smog, the bellhousings are done

TruckA · Post by **TruckA** » Wed Aug 29, 2007 3:41 pm

Bill Hincher wrote:Hi Ian,
Thats a 1957 Ford Fairlane 500, that sucked a valve this spring and I havent been able to finish it yet

Sweet, I thought it was a Fairlane. My first ride where my auto adventures started was a 1965 Ford Fairlane 500. Keep up the good work.

David

jelliott510 · Post by **jelliott510** » Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:01 pm

Maybe I missed something. How much? $350.00 plus shipping?

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Sat Sep 15, 2007 10:07 pm

for you Shaun???????????

three days, I gotta have one out to Jeff Ball this week and I am building the T 56 set up, I got most of my fall work done, so if you oder it , I can send it out with in three days, I will set one aside for you so dont worry about timing

Fabritory · Post by **Fabritory** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 6:44 pm

im mating a r154 to a 1uzfe and due to the length of the input shaft it has to shortened is that an issue with the 4g's

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Sun Sep 16, 2007 9:40 pm

no, its not an issue to shorten the input shaft, the machine shop will need a grinder attachment to turn the pilot bearing size for you

you can use the longer input to your advantage, because you can always make it shorter, my only goal was to provide a way to mate the R 154 up the 4G63 with the least amount of work, in a repetative manner

SPOOLD U · Post by **SPOOLD U** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:17 am

out of curiousity, has anyone tried to shift one of these trannies at high RPM? like 9500-10,000? Will it shift provided a clutch that is properly set up?

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 11:53 am

are you making any horsepower at 8 to 10 grand?

if you look at your HP charts and design a gear selection behind it to use your dyno charts properly, I dont think you will find that to be an issue

SPOOLD U · Post by **SPOOLD U** » Mon Oct 08, 2007 4:54 pm

Bill Hincher wrote:are you making any horsepower at 8 to 10 grand?

if you look at your HP charts and design a gear selection behind it to use your dyno charts properly, I dont think you will find that to be an issue

The setup I am building will be making power there.

Maybe some of you aren't taking my questions seriously, I don't know. It's understandable though, there are so many dreamers and idiots on the other forums that ask similar questions. I assure you I am not one of them. I already have a 600+whp AWD Talon, and have built countless 500+ whp cars, I do EFI Dyno tuning for a living. My plan is to build a 800-900ish whp high RPM 2.0 setup, obvious turbo choice being a 42R. Something to play with the supras and bikes and blown vettes on the highway. Something fun that is out of the norm of a regular drag car like my talon is. The motor/turbo setup I am going to be running has already made 1000whp on another local car, with plenty of power at 9500 RPM. I won't be running as much boost as him though, will more than likely be in the 800-900hp range.

jettaturboman · Post by **jettaturboman** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 1:41 am

bill first off .. thats amazing work, im interseted in the r154 bellhousing , but i have a few questions.. what flexplate is needed along with clutch set up? . ive got a near mint 86 conquest tsi and a jdm 4g63t waiting for its new home. i actually need as much info on this swap as possible .. any help or direction would be much apreciated. also what the price of the housing set up ? thanx.. bill S.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:51 pm

SPOOLD U wrote:
Bill Hincher wrote:are you making any horsepower at 8 to 10 grand?

if you look at your HP charts and design a gear selection behind it to use your dyno charts properly, I dont think you will find that to be an issue
The setup I am building will be making power there.

Maybe some of you aren't taking my questions seriously, I don't know. It's understandable though, there are so many dreamers and idiots on the other forums that ask similar questions. I assure you I am not one of them. I already have a 600+whp AWD Talon, and have built countless 500+ whp cars, I do EFI Dyno tuning for a living. My plan is to build a 800-900ish whp high RPM 2.0 setup, obvious turbo choice being a 42R. Something to play with the supras and bikes and blown vettes on the highway. Something fun that is out of the norm of a regular drag car like my talon is. The motor/turbo setup I am going to be running has already made 1000whp on another local car, with plenty of power at 9500 RPM. I won't be running as much boost as him though, will more than likely be in the 800-900hp range.

your skill is not the issue, I am asking a question, I was thinking about 10,000 RPM and how much time it takes to break down the fuel to produce power . how much BTU's in the fuel can release with burn at that speed.
I dont doubt you can do it, but your power band will start at a much lower RPM with 10,000 at the upper level so your actual shifting will be taking place at the lower end of your torque curve

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:56 pm

jettaturboman wrote:bill first off .. thats amazing work, im interseted in the r154 bellhousing , but i have a few questions.. what flexplate is needed along with clutch set up? . ive got a near mint 86 conquest tsi and a jdm 4g63t waiting for its new home. i actually need as much info on this swap as possible .. any help or direction would be much apreciated. also what the price of the housing set up ? thanx.. bill S.

everything is built around the first gen FWD system, flywheel,starter,clutch fork, pivot ball and pressure plate and use a toyota disc, they sell for $375.

SPOOLD U · Post by **SPOOLD U** » Tue Oct 09, 2007 9:47 pm

Bill Hincher wrote:
SPOOLD U wrote:
Bill Hincher wrote:are you making any horsepower at 8 to 10 grand?

if you look at your HP charts and design a gear selection behind it to use your dyno charts properly, I dont think you will find that to be an issue
The setup I am building will be making power there.

Maybe some of you aren't taking my questions seriously, I don't know. It's understandable though, there are so many dreamers and idiots on the other forums that ask similar questions. I assure you I am not one of them. I already have a 600+whp AWD Talon, and have built countless 500+ whp cars, I do EFI Dyno tuning for a living. My plan is to build a 800-900ish whp high RPM 2.0 setup, obvious turbo choice being a 42R. Something to play with the supras and bikes and blown vettes on the highway. Something fun that is out of the norm of a regular drag car like my talon is. The motor/turbo setup I am going to be running has already made 1000whp on another local car, with plenty of power at 9500 RPM. I won't be running as much boost as him though, will more than likely be in the 800-900hp range.
your skill is not the issue, I am asking a question, I was thinking about 10,000 RPM and how much time it takes to break down the fuel to produce power . how much BTU's in the fuel can release with burn at that speed.
I dont doubt you can do it, but your power band will start at a much lower RPM with 10,000 at the upper level so your actual shifting will be taking place at the lower end of your torque curve

The same setup that I am putting together for the conquest has already produced 1000whp on a local GSX. That car was still making 900whp at 10,000 RPM. I've done a couple other 42R 4G63s and they all seem to make a solid top end that is best shifted at 9-10,000 RPM.

jeffball610 · Post by **jeffball610** » Fri Oct 12, 2007 6:18 pm

Bill is talking about torque. 1000hp from the 4G63 is awesome. I've seen a couple out there, but nothing is worth a damn in a AWD setup. Shep has done it, but I hear he babies it out of the hole as to not break stuff. Buschur has their Conquest and Powerglide setup that is running well too. I'd like to see what you come up with.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Fri Feb 15, 2008 10:55 am

I been watching GRNDSM( Leon's) work on hydralic throw out bearing and I must say , its VERY intresting, VERY nice work

I thought I would take the time to take some measurements to work with, first I bolted up a pressure plate with a used ,wore out disc that I know slipped . this showed the clutch pressure plate fingers ( spring) at its maximuim travel or when the throw out bearing should be self adjusting at its its farthest away from the pressure plate fingers

Then I replace the disc with a new unit and remeasured to find out the relative range of motion the pressure plate fingers would need to allow the dics to use its maximum life span. I found that range to be 8mm measured from the center of the crankshaft inside the pilot bearing, this told me that the throw out bearing had self adjust 8 mm during the maximum life span of the disc,

In the mean time, the throw out bearing had to release the pressure plate during the course of the life of the disc and I measured that motion to be 11mm with a new disc and fully assembled clutch/fork/throw out bearing arraingement.
What this tells me is that the throw out bearing must be placed somewhere in the middle/ begginning of its range of adjustment with a new disc and as the disc is worn down, the hydralic cylinder must self adjust ( or absorb) its travel torwards the middle /end of its travel
what does all this have to do with hydralic clutchs? well, if you were to install an internal hydralic throw out bearing with a 3/8 stroke, it would mean you would have to allow 1/8 inch free travel as a preadjustment to allow the throw out bearing the space to retract after it does its work, based on the fact that the pressure plate has to move 7/16 ( 11mm) to release and still allow the disc to wear the distance of 8mm ( 1/8)inch
On the other hand, if you were to adjust an hydralic clutch/throw out bearing too close to the pressure plate, the clyinder would be capable of pushing the dics into the flywheel causing a mechanical bind
what do you think? any input /suggestions would be welcome