bellhousings finished for R-154 7/20/2007

cali · Post by **cali** » Sat Feb 21, 2009 1:47 am

screemin eagle wrote:i got my r154 bolted up and ready to be dropped into the car as soon as i adjust the tranny tunnel. remeber boys and girls DONT FORGET TO SHORTEN THE INPUT SHAFT OR YOU WILL BREAK THE EAR OFF THE BLOCK! bills bell is stronger than the cast iron block incase anyone was wondering.

I award myself with the dumbass of the year award for that one.

any pics you can share? (of the shortening and where in the tunnel you take the BFH to?)

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Sat Feb 21, 2009 2:05 am

I looked up the original input shaft length and i am building it back into the housing, I dont want that to happen again

the disc was not fully engaged to the input shaft spline by about 1/8 of an inch so I shortened the pilot shaft bye 1/4 inch, but it aint worth it if it breaks the blocks

I got an input shaft length number of 7.25 inch

screemin eagle · Post by **screemin eagle** » Sat Feb 21, 2009 6:59 pm

ill get some pics when i get back out to my garage. bill it wont happen if people watch the instructions right before they bolt it up and not 8 months before.

i didnt adjust the tranny tunnel yet my wepons of choice are sissor jack 2 peices of 2x4 and my deadblow hammer. pretty crazy that this thing is gonna be running and driving again after 6 months of sitting on jackstands.
i judt gotta finsh up the ful feed and mount the reguator and i might make the power steering work too.

jeffball610 · Post by **jeffball610** » Sat Feb 21, 2009 7:09 pm

I had no issues installing or modifying my input shaft with your Billhousing. If you don't modify the input shaft, won't it be too far from the friction disk to work with a stock disk? I thought that was the reason for doing it. That way it was closer to the block and you could use an off the shelf part.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Sat Feb 21, 2009 9:38 pm

yes, the reason was afull engagement of the disc, and by placing the input shaft all the way into the crank, the input shaft will hold the flywheel in place in case of a clutch explosion/ flywheel failure

what do you think? keep it short?

ramon · Post by **ramon** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 10:37 am

[quote="Bill Hincher"]yes, the reason was afull engagement of the disc, and by placing the input shaft all the way into the crank, the input shaft will hold the flywheel in place in case of a clutch explosion/ flywheel failure

Bill if that engine is going to have high HP is good if we have all this

jeffball610 · Post by **jeffball610** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 7:05 pm

The only reason I can see to not keep it short would be if someone wanted to resell the transmission to a Supra owner at some point. But we remove the throwout bearing collar anyway, so it shouldn't matter. We're only talking about removing 1/4" or so of material. I think it benefits this application and won't take away anything for other applications.

On those new Billhousings, is there going to be provisions for both FWD and AWD flywheel ring gears? I thought that was what you were saying, but I may have misunderstood. I don't think it matters FWD or AWD. You just need to make sure you have the correct flywheel.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Sun Feb 22, 2009 8:32 pm

yeah Jeff , Cali already has all FWD setup stuff
I looked at it and went out and got an AWD flywheel, the difference is 10mm in diameter and I bought a starter, I may be wrong but I dont see any difference between AWD and FWD starters, so anyway, if I machine the housing to axcept the FWD ( larger diameter flywheel) then why not locate the starter in a position to accept either the FWD or th AWD ?

there is enough room for the bolt bosses , ( its only 5 mm because you are dealing with radius, not diameter ) so I went back and placed an extra brace behind where the flywheel tarvels to reinforce the starter bolts , then I can drill the housing to the customers needs

I will keep the input shaft short but in this system the throw out bearing will not be cut

jezz_s13 · Post by **jezz_s13** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 1:14 pm

Would I be right in saying that the AWD version is for Evo engines?

If so i would like to register my interest in one of these, ideally with the hydraulic throw out bearing.

DoubleJ · Post by **DoubleJ** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 4:52 pm

jezz_s13 wrote:Would I be right in saying that the AWD version is for Evo engines?

If so i would like to register my interest in one of these, ideally with the hydraulic throw out bearing.

EVO 1-3 I believe

jezz_s13 · Post by **jezz_s13** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 4:57 pm

DoubleJ wrote:
jezz_s13 wrote:Would I be right in saying that the AWD version is for Evo engines?

If so i would like to register my interest in one of these, ideally with the hydraulic throw out bearing.
EVO 1-3 I believe

Mmm, my 4G is Evo 6.

As Ramon is so interested I assumed it was for Evo 8/9.

ramon · Post by **ramon** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 5:34 pm

jezz_s13 wrote:
DoubleJ wrote:
jezz_s13 wrote:Would I be right in saying that the AWD version is for Evo engines?

If so i would like to register my interest in one of these, ideally with the hydraulic throw out bearing.
EVO 1-3 I believe
Mmm, my 4G is Evo 6.

As Ramon is so interested I assumed it was for Evo 8/9.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Wed Feb 25, 2009 11:16 am

there is nothing fancy about this, its just a matter of adding material and sanding the shape out , its just sooooooooooo time consuming, because at this piont anything you put in or leave out , yougotta live with the rest of the patterns run

jezz_s13 · Post by **jezz_s13** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 4:41 am

Looking good Bill.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 12:40 pm

this is the finished pattern for the r 154

the interior now sports a much different approach to the throw out bearing

the starter bolt holes are 'stacked' so the buyer can select FWD or AWD flywheels

jezz_s13 · Post by **jezz_s13** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:18 pm

Nice work Bill.

The Gen1 throwout bearing lever/pivot that you are using, is that for a push type clutch? What slave cylinder will that use, also gen1, and which bearing carrier would it use, the original R154, or a Mitsubishi part?

Finally can you confirm that the AWD casing is for the Evo flywheel & starter?

Sorry for all the questions.

Silverstreak · Post by **Silverstreak** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 1:25 pm

Hey bill, sent you a email a few weeks back now, just wondered if Id be able to put my name on the list for one once they are complete.
really interested in one for my build.
Thanks.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 4:36 pm

I ordered 10 units casted, if all goes well I will have them the end of this week, feel free to get a hold of me about them

jezz_s13 · Post by **jezz_s13** » Tue Mar 03, 2009 2:59 am

You have email, Bill.

Silverstreak · Post by **Silverstreak** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 11:24 pm

Hey guys, just picked up my r154 tonight and I'm pumped.

Also bill sent you an email!

Edit:

Well this sucks, confirmed this morning the dude ripped me off and sold me a w58.. .. Fantastic now I have a nice big paperweight.

I guess this billhousing wont work on the w58 then

Bill I sent you another email, hopefully you still make the billhousing for the w58.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Tue Mar 17, 2009 10:50 am

I have the raw castings back for the R 154 convention fork system back

I will be proving them out and machining them this week

savageskaterkid · Post by **savageskaterkid** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 8:12 pm

I have read through this thread over and over and think I'm ready to buy a bellhousing. I don't see if you still offer the W-series housing anymore, is it still available? If not I guess I'll have to look into the R154. Your designs and such keep changing to keep cost down as well as labor, what is the current price for each setup? Without the internal TOB if its available.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 9:51 pm

your the high bidder on my Ebay site >;o)

savageskaterkid · Post by **savageskaterkid** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 11:45 pm

That would be me, I guessed that it was most likely you selling that bellhousing and have seen the quality on here so I had no issues with placing a bid, although the reserve is not yet met

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 11:45 pm

PM sent

DoubleJ · Post by **DoubleJ** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 8:44 pm

Hey Bill did everyone already buy you out of your new housings? Or you got a housing in mind for me

I can paypal you this friday. Possibly sooner.

cali · Post by **cali** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 4:03 am

any more pics of the progress?

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 10:22 am

I remeber when I was a kid just starting out and my boss gave me some excellent advice, he said 'always make your work as good as or better then your last effort,' this thing came out excellent

starter location, as always was very critical to the build, this one is perfect, notice the small bumps below the starter position, those were added to allow the AWD flywheel/starter arraingement for those who choose that option

notice the hole positions ( no not the one your thinking of) I am talking about the mounting bolt holes, they are centered in thier positions with equal wall thickness

check out the strength built into the throw out bearing pivot ball holder and the trans bolt pattern with the placing of the gussets, this thing is 30% lighter then previous work and 10% stronger

all the trig work for the throw out bearing proved correct

I need to build the new throw out bearing holder now

89coltgt · Post by **89coltgt** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 11:18 am

It looks great Bill. Your work is greatly appreciated by many.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 1:02 pm

this was the final peice of the puzzle on the new R 154 bellhusing, I had to build the body for the throw out bearing, i hated to do it but I have to use billet construction until I get new castings

I used as much of the Toyota retaining collar mounted to the R 154 as I could to provide a strong solid mount for the extended bearing placement

the throw out bearing had to be moved forward about an inch from the original placing

this uses the OEM first gen clutch fork, pivot bearing with a Toyota throw out bearing just like the W 55's did

ramon · Post by **ramon** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 11:05 pm

Bil you are the (MAN)

DoubleJ · Post by **DoubleJ** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 12:06 am

I have a question in regards to shimming. I am going to be putting an act 2600 pressure plate with a act 6 puck toyota clutch. On my dsm awd tranny I had to shim it to get it to work.

Bill or anyone else:
Do you think I am going to have to shim with this new style bellhousing? Or do I just need to be the test dummy and test fit the clutch? Or.... has anybody else had experience with a heavy PP and Billhousing?

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 7:17 am

just assemble the clutch on the crank and give me the number from the back of the block and I will cut the throw out bearing to your needs, if you need to adjust it from there, you can lower the pivot ball mount or shim it up ( there is plenty of room)
I will be ready to ship by Wensday

cali · Post by **cali** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 1:30 pm

DoubleJ wrote:I have a question in regards to shimming. I am going to be putting an act 2600 pressure plate with a act 6 puck toyota clutch. On my dsm awd tranny I had to shim it to get it to work.

Bill or anyone else:
Do you think I am going to have to shim with this new style bellhousing? Or do I just need to be the test dummy and test fit the clutch? Or.... has anybody else had experience with a heavy PP and Billhousing?

im actually running the same setup, 2600 with a spring centered 6 puck.
please share your findings if you assembly everything before i do.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:26 am

this is for cali
i felt it was important to attach the clutch fork in a way that the body would not rotate and the fork would move freely

this is a first gen 4G63 clutch fork and pivot ball

this peice was built from a solid piece of 4330 hot roll, I will probably have them casted in the future because it takes too time to machine each one

4g63mightymax · Post by **4g63mightymax** » Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:44 am

I know you have heard this plenty of times already, but your work is truly impressive. Every time I see something new of yours, I am more impressed than the time before. Great stuff.

-Jeremy

cali · Post by **cali** » Thu Apr 30, 2009 2:58 am

I got the bellhousing today from bill and bolted it up to the tranny...unbelieveable how precise everything is!! Thanks agian Bill!

here's some pics.

side note, here's a pic of the evo ix intake manifold bill fabricated for my build.

screemin eagle · Post by **screemin eagle** » Thu Apr 30, 2009 6:00 pm

just to give you a heads up your gonna need a shifter extension. the r 154 setup puts the shifter in the radio asuming you moved the motor foward to clear the cas .

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Fri May 01, 2009 9:43 am

I will have some of the shifter connectors ( the 'L' shaped peice) casted and leave the shifter end over length, then we can cut them to length and build a shifter box for them

cali · Post by **cali** » Sat May 02, 2009 4:35 am

i didn't move the engine forward since im using a 2g motor with the CAS on the cam gear.

as soon i get to test fit everything i'll take measurements to see where it stands.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Thu May 07, 2009 11:21 am

drilling the bellhousing is an exact phase, all the previous work is no good if it dont line up. this is a center plate keyed to the rear of the bellhousing to index the raw casting in the right direction

i like to use the flywheel I am using to center a raw casting, yeah, theres probably a lot of ways to do this , but you know? thats the flywheel thats gotta spin in the housing for a lot of time to come .;o)

now that I have the raw casting chucked into the bridgeport in the proper index, i can drill it to the engine this is drilled to an AWD flywheel, I can drill my bellhousings to either an AWD or a FWD unit

I add my seperater plates at this time because each one is a little different, I cant make them wholesale

a lot of guys want to know how i center the transmission, the answer is kinda easy, I built a plate with the engine bolt pattern on it, then I index the plate to center

I use inserts to imitate the engine bolt pattern , then mount the bellhousing on my imitation engine block

I drill in my transmission guide pins next just to test the center, dont forget the trans facing must be indexed just as well as the engine plate, so everything must be 'in phase' that was per done when I used the backing plate to 'key' the raw casting before I drilled the facing

I like to test center at this piont

then I like to clean up all the mounting bolt surfaces with a home made cutter

DoubleJ · Post by **DoubleJ** » Tue May 12, 2009 12:17 am

I just recieved the bellhousing (the same day that I get impatient and call up bill to ask where its at in the mail lol) I go to get a bite to eat and then I came back home and there it was lol.

This thing is amazing. It lines right up with the transmission and engine. Once again, simply amazing. U da man bill.....

77amc · Post by **77amc** » Sun May 24, 2009 6:20 pm

SO, instead of going through 7 pages of info:

Which Toyota cars/trucks had which transmissions? I don't know much of Toyota and next time I go to a yard I'd like to have it written down..

W55= ?
W58=?
R154= ? And average prices wouldnt hurt either

Maybe DJ could post pics of the bodies of the transmissions like he did on the bellhousings in the info section. to make them easier to identify when looking around.

And Bill, Do you have the dimension length from your housing to the shifter center?

Errol

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Wed May 27, 2009 9:08 am

The R 154 is hard to see but the gears are about 20% wider then the W 55 adding more strength in the gears

the input shaft is an inch longer but the disc splines are the same

the bearings are also larger in the R 154 on the left, its just an all round heavier trans

this is the R 154 on the left, the T 56 in the middle and the W 55 on the right

you can see the difference in shifter length

77amc · Post by **77amc** » Thu May 28, 2009 8:46 am

DANGIT.. What a time to find out your ink is low..

Thank you again Bill. I hope DJ can make all these pics "stickies"

E

shroder15 · Post by **shroder15** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 4:50 am

Bill,
I just went through all 7 pages of info and was curious about 1 thing. When not using the internal TOB, what slave cylinder do you run and where does it bolt up? The picture may be flipped, but if its run on the 1g block as in the picture, the mounting points for the slave are not on that side of the motor. Or is there another set of bolts on the other side of the block that I'm not aware of? Any help on overcoming this would be great! Thanks!

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 8:23 am

all of my bellhousings use the slave cylinder on the passenger side of the bellhousing, I wanted to allow more room for the exhaust system and I wanted to stay away from the heat.
All the Toyota cylinders look the same but they are not.
I used the non turbo Supra cylinder because its the only cylinder with the bleeder on the top when placed on the passenger side

88/91 non turbo Supra
138.44201 slave cy
OEM #31470-30222

jeffball610 · Post by **jeffball610** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 11:39 am

Bill, that would be the driver's side or the intake side of the block. Just thought I would clear that up before someone else gets confused. You can tell for sure which side it will mount on because it's right there next to the starter hole.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Wed Jul 01, 2009 12:01 pm

your correct jeff, drivers side , bad keyboard

screemin eagle · Post by **screemin eagle** » Mon Jul 06, 2009 9:50 am

be carefull of the slaves guys i bought a new slave from advanced auto and the casting broke while bleeding the clutch it snapped one of the mounting tabs clean off. im gonna exchange it for another but it might be best bet to go o.e.m on this.