VR4 starion

All the oily, spinning bits

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scum
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Post by scum »

hi all, I came across your page ( ::Project 0G:: ) a while ago when I was looking for info on the twin cam conversion. since then I have been busy with work, moving and all the other fun things that make up life so I never got around to saying hi. hi.

anyway, I’m from Perth, Western Australia. anyone else here even on the same side of the planet? I have been working on my conversion for about 12 months now, the car has been 'off the road' for about 3 years undergoing a major restoration. like you guys I am using the VR4 twin cam out of a 1991 4WD gallant. also like you I am converting the gearbox to suite, and the steering rack. I wish I had seen all this back then, I was told there WAS NO BELLHOUSEING to fit, without a doubt. so after 3 hours of crawling around in the dirt at a wreckers I finally found the bell housing that doesn’t exist and doesn’t bolt to the VR4.... sheesh. same with the rack, was told there was not one short enough, so back to the wreckers and fond the rack that was never made. anyway, things have been slow atm, but I hope to get back on with it soon. I have completed the thermostat housing and shoved the engine as far back as I can (you can still slide a bit of paper in there :D ) and other bits and bobs, like extractors and so on, so as things move along I will leave posts here and there to let you know and see what you guys have sorted out. I think the only reason I did this was because everyone said cant be done, I was an idiot and had wasted my money on a front cut, was even advised to sell the front cut -I quote- "while it is still worth something" you may not know, but here in AUS, WA even more so, a VR4 is EXTREEMLY RARE, hence the $3400 purchase price. anyway, fingers sore too much typing...... cya.
Scum
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scum
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Post by scum »

radiator from the gallant frontcut, coz the inlet and outlet are both on the driverside. there will be a decent heatshield in the way, so i hope heatsoak from the exhaust wont be a prob. will have to wait and see.
scum
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Post by scum »

hehehehe, sheetmetal from his attic, sounds like a plan!
not sure if you have seen it be4, but there is a very usefull tool you can make for finding the best place to put a vent on the bonnet. just a clear tube taped to a pole and some water, if you havent seen one i can draw a pic. also you can extract heaps of heat with your stonetray under the car..... with the heat wrap, the stuff we get over here causes the metal to rust at an accelerated rate, do you have this problem?
i have seen standard power figures for the VR4 at about 195kw, they are hard to find over here and mine is not one of them :( wondering what the difference is, there is NO info whatsoever over here for VR4s and i have not found anything that looks right on the net so far. i understand the turbo comp is different and the injectors, anything else? what do the large injectors sell for over there in US$? and does anyone have any that i can buy / ship to aus?

cheers.
Ryan
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Post by Ryan »

US 2.0 uses 450cc "bluetop" very cheap injectors
JDM 2.0 has an option for 510cc with a 16g factory "yellowtop" injectors

I like your thermostat housing alot! You should make me one! :D

Tell me, why has every damn Starion I've seen with the 4g63 swap been white in color?

There is an Australian guy with the 2jzgtte swap but his car is now red
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

here is the 2JZ swap site: <a href='http://twinturbostarion.cjb.net/' target='_blank'>http://twinturbostarion.cjb.net/</a>
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
scum
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Post by scum »

Yegh, that 2JZ belongs to HCCA, a guy from the Australian forum, I think its almost finished.

*****US 2.0 uses 450cc "bluetop" very cheap injectors
*****JDM 2.0 has an option for 510cc with a 16g factory "yellowtop" injectors
does this mean the yellow are not cheap? And do you guys have any, if so how much to stick ‘em in an envelope?

*****I like your thermostat housing alot! You should make me one!
I would, but I cant stand infront of a mill for 12 hours again, it will make me go mad!

*****Tell me, why has every damn Starion I've seen with the 4g63 swap been white in color?
Coz white is cool. Also at night the white light from the moon reflects in the white paint and bounces UV light off the back and makes it go faster…. This only happens at high tide. And when you see a pig fly past the window. :lol:

DJpowerHaus, how is the steering rack going? this is the next big thing for me, have you anything new?
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

I'm keeping my spare injectors, but you could get some for about $20 if you wanted.. shipping will be the real cost.

As for the steering rack.. I'm happy to just be able to drive again. My steering box is still leaking like crazy, but I did get my uncle to weld the steering column. Now the steering at least is tight. I'll get to it one day, but I'll buy a spare chassis first. I'm getting a spare tranny soon followed by a spare longblock.

I think my longblock is okay actually. It pulls 20psi of vac at idle.
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
scum
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Post by scum »

in australia i dont think we got all the same engines as you, i was wondering about the 2.4L, 2.6L and 2.8L blocks. i am sure the 2.4L is the beltdrive magna block, but what is the 2.6L? all the 2.6L blocks over here (astron) are chain drive, can the front cover be removed and a belt type cover put on? and the 2.8L is supposed to be the 2.6L with a longer stroke, right?

and i can get some yellow injectors for about $20US? does anyone have any for sale and would it be possible for you to call your local postoffice and see what postage will cost? i want to buy them at any rate so i will even pay extra if someone can do this for me. they would fit in a normal envelope with some padding, i think..... anyway, let me know how it looks. :unsure:
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

We dont have yellow ones over here... they come from Japan. We only get blue. The Evo8 might have 560cc injectors, but I'm sure they're not cheap even used.

As for all these crazy displacements... We get the G54B 2.6 here in the Starion. No 2.0 12V cyclone option over here. It is the same motor as the 2.6L Magna over there. It is chaindrive and SOHC. Magna MPI intakes are an expensive upgrade for guys over here with 2.6s. The 2nd Generation 2.6L head from Oz is also an oddity, but is supposedly better than the Starion head which ALWAYS crack... even if the motor gets a little hot. Maybe there is a 2.4L Magna... my guess is that its the G64B/4G64 motor.

The 2.4L G64B/4G64 came in some different Dodge and Mitsubishi cars/trucks and vans. It is basically a 2.0L 4G63 block with a few mm of extra deck height. There are narrow and wide versions over here too. Some DSM guys have bolted a DOHC DSM head to the block and added lower compression custom pistons. This give 2.4L displacement and even keeps the stock rod ratio (same redline). Some people even use a 2.0 crank to get a 2.1L motor with what is rumored to be a 10,000rpm redline (with supporting mods of course).

I've never heard of a Mitsu 2.8L 4banger. Gimme more info on that one, would ya?
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
asian312
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Post by asian312 »

Slightly off on the 2.4 mark. Using the 4G64 with the 4G63 head throws the rod ratio way out of whack. So much that it requires milling of the block to make clearance for the rod and crank. Magnus uses a version that involves custom rods and acutally increases the rod ratio.

The proper 2.4 block is actually built from a hyundai block (G4CS). Wiseco makes pistons for both the conversions, but in the case with the hyundai block it uses 6bolt 4G63 rods thus keeping the same rod ratio and rpms.

My $0.02
scum
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Post by scum »

10,000rpm eh? please explain? the 2.8L is a bit of a history to me too, nobody really knows it seems, and those that work it out wont tell <_<

but I think it uses the 2.6L astron block, somehow with a belt drive, and a 2.4L magna crank, which is supposed to have a longer stroke while still fitting in the block. I assume you will need new rod ect...


all your stazz's are chain drive? and the heads crack? wow, must be a different a motor as you can get while still been related.
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Post by Joel07 »

Slightly off on the 2.4 mark. Using the 4G64 with the 4G63 head throws the rod ratio way out of whack. So much that it requires milling of the block to make clearance for the rod and crank.
I'm assuming you're talking about the 4G64 crank in a 4G63 motor. Using a 4G64 bottom end with a 4G63 head wouldn't require any block changes...

I'm guessing the 10,000 rpm's is coming from the 4G64 motor with the shorter stroke of the 4G63. Big bores and short strokes make for high revving motors.
Well, now I've got the truck, should I do the swap? :)<br><a href='http://www.handcraftedracing.com' target='_blank'>http://www.handcraftedracing.com</a><br><a href='http://storm.prohosting.com/likness' target='_blank'>http://storm.prohosting.com/likness</a>
Ryan
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Post by Ryan »

<!--QuoteBegin-scum+Apr 23 2004, 04:40 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (scum @ Apr 23 2004, 04:40 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> 10,000rpm eh? please explain? the 2.8L is a bit of a history to me too, nobody really knows it seems, and those that work it out wont tell  <_<

but I think it uses the 2.6L astron block, somehow with a belt drive, and a 2.4L magna crank, which is supposed to have a longer stroke while still fitting in the block. I assume you will need new rod ect...


all your stazz's are chain drive? and the heads crack? wow, must be a different a motor as you can get while still been related. [/quote]
Hey again down there in Australia, the yellow top injectors are actually pretty hard to come by since they are sometimes sold on imported motors from Japan to USA. Look to Ebay and you can find some stock 450cc "bluetop" injectors for about $100USD sometimes cheaper

The US 2.6 is a great motor but it doesn't breathe at all. You have to open the motor up and port everything to make power. Put it this way 300wheel horse power and you HAVE you rebuild the bottom end. The 2.6 could've been designed witha little more thought for sure. The heads crack and gaskets will blow. :ph34r:
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

OH but the torque... 500ftlbs and like 250hp ... hehe. It has its merrits. If only we could get our hands on the SUPER HYPER rare 2.5 HKS DOHC heads. That would be the start of a MEAN 2.6L 1000hp motor.
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
scum
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Post by scum »

<!--QuoteBegin-DJpowerHaus+Apr 28 2004, 03:13 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (DJpowerHaus @ Apr 28 2004, 03:13 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> OH but the torque... 500ftlbs and like 250hp ... hehe. It has its merrits. If only we could get our hands on the SUPER HYPER rare 2.5 HKS DOHC heads. That would be the start of a MEAN 2.6L 1000hp motor. [/quote]
a HKS WHAT?!?!?!?
Ryan
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Post by Ryan »

I thnks he's talkign about the HKS Ralliart dohc naturally aspirated heads they used on the Rally cars?
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

NA or turbo.. a heads a head. And yes that is the one I'm talking about .. who owns that thing now?
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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