Converting to Sqirting..

77amc · Post by **77amc** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 12:53 am

Hey Guys, Has anyone here tried to make a non-squirting block to a squirting one?
It doesn't look that hard to do but would that really make a big difference or would it be just more internal pressure to 'bleed' off instead of going to the bearings?

Is there a oil galley that runs down the side of the non-turbo blocks that can be tapped into?

Anyone know the hole size of the ones used on the turbo engines?

And another squirting Idea.. Seriously, Since this 4G61 has a power steering pump and bracketry, What about using it to transfer trans lube from trans - pump - cooler back to trans at specific points along the body of the case to squirt at specific areas that may need more lube protection..?

Just a thought.

89coltgt · Post by **89coltgt** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 6:04 pm

A competent machine shop should be abl;e to do this for you. I know JAM does this, but I have never had them do anything myself. Are you wanting to do this to a 4g63 or 4g64?

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:44 pm

The 2.4L blocks have the material cast into them just like the turbo blocks. They are right on the main oil gallery. Your machinist should be able to machine this cast pad flat, drill a hole and tap it. Its important to have this hole drilled and tapped perpendicular so that the crush washers on the oil squirters will seal. They have built in springs so they'll only squirt once an adequate pressure exists in the system.

I can't tell you the thread size of the oil squirters, but I'm sure someone has some laying around they could measure for you. I know Hincher has a 2.0 block in his shop he could pull them from and measure.

As for if you should go with oil squirters, that's up to you. I'm so 50/50 on it I couldn't even give you a recommendation. I guess it comes down to how cheap you can get squirters and how cheap the machine work will be. Probably best to buy new squirters. You wouldn't like the spring to stick and bleed off pressure below the "adequate pressure" mentioned earlier.

As for the transmission squirters, I think that's over kill. Do your swap and if you start destroying transmissions due to lubrication problems, then start to cross that bridge.

77amc · Post by **77amc** » Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:45 pm

It was a thought.. Probably better to have the pistons 'coated' to reduce heat and a dual radiator setup that will use two older civic radiators going form engine-- rad 1-- rad 2-- (both with fans)-- back to engine.

Thanks again

Robert Venable · Post by **Robert Venable** » Sun Feb 10, 2008 6:55 pm

Why do you need 2 radiators??? How are you placing them?

77amc · Post by **77amc** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 2:10 am

Mostly to save space. The Civic ones are very thin and aren't that big to congest space. the tanks are really close to the core..
I thought about using them in a wide V shape when I was going to make a 87 Accord hatch over a 88 toyota pu frame so i could drop in a V6 or 8 and needed more room front to back than side to side. And the water pump would get more room by utilizing a gap between the radiators. Like this /\ but not as drastic.
The fans are thin, efficient and quiet. I never got the chance to do this at that time, so I may do it now on this project. ( it can't be that hard..) Plus I could add a oil cooler inbetween them.
I know that you need some heat to make power more efficiently but not to much..
And it's a crap shoot to.. It may not work out, but I think it will.
If you can see the pics that Bill so graciously posted for me under 4g63 rwd Honda civic you can see the front grill will support two.
Now I have thought about a inter cooler for one side on Ebay, but that would lessen my cooling capabilities in a larger motor.

GRNDSM · Post by **GRNDSM** » Mon Feb 11, 2008 6:42 pm

This is quite a twist to a previous DSMer trend to remove the squirters from a turbo blocks!

How many miles/year are you looking to put on your motor? Or what kind of racing are you looking to do with it?