cost of the swap

Fabritory · Post by **Fabritory** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 9:49 pm

i was just wondering what it cost some of you guys to complete the swap.

asian312 · Post by **asian312** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 11:05 am

Under 5K including the cost of the car. Engine was a freebie and the labor and machinist hours are also freebies.

Fabritory · Post by **Fabritory** » Thu Aug 26, 2004 8:34 am

I have the engine and the car and $700 think i can pull it off.

AbsurdParadox · Post by **AbsurdParadox** » Fri Aug 27, 2004 1:58 am

Well you still need a transmission,have the drive shaft lengthened, and if you can't weld alluminum, have the stock manifold chopped & welded. Other than that, theres not much else as far as costs go, assuming nothing else needs maintenance and you keep everything stock. Atleast... I think...

Fabritory · Post by **Fabritory** » Fri Aug 27, 2004 1:41 pm

DRIVESHAFT!!!!!! .........TurboJace said that there's no need for a driveshaft because im using the stock 88" Tranny :unsure:

Fabritory · Post by **Fabritory** » Sat Aug 28, 2004 11:42 am

Im going to use an adapter plate.

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Mon Aug 30, 2004 1:32 pm

the real cost of the swap if you already have some cheap welding access is the cost of the performance upgrades like clutches, big turbos, ECU stuffs, more fuel.. etc. All the other stuff is pretty simple.

and about the driveshafts, you dont HAVE to extend them.. I actually recommend banging in the firewall. This way you can skip the adapter plates that move the motor forward, and you dont have to worry about the custom driveshaft or anything like that. It will probably be a little harder to work on, but whatever.. cant be any worse than a 300ZX. Plus you can tell people how you planned it that way and polar moments and all that crap.

If you cut off the EGR runner and a bit of the back of the plenum you can get that motor pretty far back... the plenum into the brake booster is the real limiting factor of how far back the motor can be (otherwise I'd have that thing 12" back). The motor also can fit below the seam that separates the windsheild wiper mechanisms, so it wont get into any tricky sheet metal. Just cut out a big square of the tunnel/firewall area and move it back a few inches (who needs climate control anyways).

So yeah.. get a big hammer or a big saw and welder and go to down. If anybody has any friends with totally trashed DSM heads PLEASE!!!! SEND ONE TO ME. I'm going to cut it up and find a spot on the front or side of the head to tap in for a water outlet.... it will be pimp! Full write up no doubt.

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Mon Aug 30, 2004 1:41 pm

Oh yeah.. and tell more about adapter plates.. I've been thinking about it and it looks almost doable if you use a DSM clutch, flywheel and starter. And have it basically be 2 layers that make it so there is no space added by the adapter plate (trust me.. I have a good idea in my head).

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Wed Sep 01, 2004 1:52 pm

yeah.. lifting hte motor mounts up will make the back of hte head closer to the firewall.. you could try lifting the tranny a bit too

(take out the rubber spacers). HOw is everbody doing when it comes to the oil pan sticking below the crossmember.. mine just barely has the plug below the crossmember.. this is with it sitting on 3/8" adapter plates that are on a 45 degree angle making them lift the motor somewhere around 1/2".

AbsurdParadox · Post by **AbsurdParadox** » Fri Sep 03, 2004 3:05 am

</div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (DJpowerHaus @ Aug 30 2004, 05:32 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> ...I actually recommend banging in the firewall...the plenum into the brake booster is the real limiting factor of how far back the motor can be... [/quote]
Yeah, I may try not using any adapter plates at all and bolt the motor in the stock location. Since I'm going with that forrester manifold I might have more clearance (shorter runners, and sits almost straight off the head). I just hope that the placement on the intake plenum doesn't actually make it WORSE.

The only things I'm really worried about are the CAS/waterneck banging into the firewall if I'm throwing the car around or somethin, getting a waste gate to fit, and whats on the other side of the firewall in the areas I need to bang in

.

Question though, you guys have suggested using two passenger side mounts (I believe it was)... was that just for adapter plate fitment, or should I go ahead and use the same ones for the swap?