I now have the power steering working and can say that the steering / coilover setup was worth the trouble. Investigate other ways to do a steering column or pedals and you'll be fine. Tubular crossmember may be a good thing to try. Better control of control arm angles and engine mount positions, and sump clearance.
The strut tube length wasn't a huge issue for me. Stock ride height is SOOOO www.starquestclub.com. I haven't even moved the spring perch or other settings since I got them and I like it. If you don't like it this low, you can raise it up several inches. Just keep it low and roll the fender so it wont cut tires and stop being a pussy... also flip the sway bar upside down so it is up into the engine bay and not scraping the ground.
You can use S14 hubs, spindles, and BOLTS... scoop them up soon, they're getting rarer every day. If you use S13 control arms you'll need to also buy some S14 lower ball joints... or get S14 control arms like Matt said. Or you could just run 4 lug S13 hubs and wheels in the front.
You don't NEED the S14 brakes. Might as well upgrade to 300ZX brakes while you're at it. They won't work with stock wheels due to the way the spokes come together in the center. You'd need at least a 1" spacer to do that which puts the wheels out wider than you'd want on a Starion. You could use aftermarket wheels or you could also try to shorten the control arms. Tubular might be overkill. Collect a few stock ones and box them in and you should be fine.
What are your ideas for the rear? Weld to the gutted stock strut housing a threaded sleeves to thread in a dual height adjustable front strut? (That's mine)
240sx s13 coilovers up front questions.
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DJpowerHaus
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Did you just thread the strut housing or is it just a sleeve you machined and slipped over the housing? Does that strut have damping adjustments?

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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