Hey Bill... how about some RWD, top mount, cast manifolds?
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DJpowerHaus
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Hey Bill... how about some RWD, top mount, cast manifolds?
How much do you think you could make them for? I'm looking for something to be used with an external wastegate and I guess a T3 turbo flange. Top mount with the turbo in a good spot for a RWD application. Room for a downpipe to clear the firewall. It'd be nice to keep the alternator where it is, and maybe even the power steering. Also it, should be strong and not going to crack.
Any chance of this happening?
Any chance of this happening?

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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Bill Hincher
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Yeah I can get it done, we would have to colaberate on some drawings ....also agree on how much it should wiegh.......size of ports......longer? shorter ports? ...I could come up with a mock-up and then make a pattern......then have it casted.....the first bellhousings were hand lay ups...meaning they had to use my pattern over and over in thier sand packed system........I am in the prosses of getting a price on having my pattern turn into a serous mold so I get a better fit and finish..so I guess we could try a hand laid up pattern a couple times and see what happens...the guy I am dealing with is making all the major brand 'after market ' stuff that you see in the magazines mostly intake manifolds, I will have to get with him about how to design the porting.
Would you change turbo's? might as well develop a hood scoop for the air inlet and intercooler.....hmmmmmmmmmmmand a date with Britney Spears
be glad to help
Bill
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DJpowerHaus
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I know my friend with the foundry can't do steel stuff, so you might have to check with your foundry on that. Trying to figure out how many we could sell. I'd be down for 2 if they're under $300 each. It'd be nice to drop it down as much as we can so hood issues arent as major.
I just want something nice and strong that will hold up a big turbo and never crack.. even with antilag
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I think we should just get Fabritroy to make us all manifolds actually hahaha.
I just want something nice and strong that will hold up a big turbo and never crack.. even with antilag
I think we should just get Fabritroy to make us all manifolds actually hahaha.

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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jeffball610
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Sounds interesting. However, I'm not sure a cast manifold would fit under the hood. If you look at the 4G63 head, there isn't much room above the exhaust ports to "turn" a manifold for a top mount. You might look at SR20 (Silvia) and RB26 (Skyline GT-R) engines and see what kinds of things they have.
I think $300 is very reasonable. Take a look at Slowboy Racing. They made some of their own cast manifolds. Not sure I'd want one that's a T3 though. There are plenty of Mitsu based housings on good turbos to keep it Mitsu based. I think a tubular housing might work better, but it would deffinately be more crack prone.
I think $300 is very reasonable. Take a look at Slowboy Racing. They made some of their own cast manifolds. Not sure I'd want one that's a T3 though. There are plenty of Mitsu based housings on good turbos to keep it Mitsu based. I think a tubular housing might work better, but it would deffinately be more crack prone.
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Bill Hincher
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I know my guy makes cast iron stuff, he offered to do it with the bellhousings. rather then up or down, how about straight out?
It would be very short runs and still give hood clearance....as for the exhaust dump...........wouldnt it be neet to run an electric cut out in a wheel well hedder look? and route the the rest of the exhaust under the floor boards?
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... ryId=11529
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DJpowerHaus
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I know I dont have enough room in my wheel wells for even a wastegate dump tube. Yay to being way too low with loads of steering angle.

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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Bill Hincher
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DJpowerHaus
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Let the colaboration.. begin! Who wants what?
Also, if anyone has any opinions on the price / performance / durability of a cast manifold vs. a tubular manifold, please feel free to raise the issue.
Also, if anyone has any opinions on the price / performance / durability of a cast manifold vs. a tubular manifold, please feel free to raise the issue.

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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jeffball610
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A quick search on prices turned up $150-$500 for cast manifolds. The cheaper ones have Mitsu flanges and typically no external wastegate setup. The more expensive ones have T3/T4 flanges and typically have external wastegate setups. Tubular manifolds range from $500-alot! Most have external wastegate setups and T3/T4 flanges.
However, Megan Racing does make a nice tubular manifold with a T3 flange for $250. Not positive on the quality, but they do make good products. The down side is there are no provisions for and external gate. That's not a bad thing since any mass produced DSM manifold will exit the wastegate on the timing belt side. No good for RWD projects.
I think a good welder could make a good manifold for under $300, but that doesn't account for profit.
Road Race Engineering has DSM stainless steel exhaust manifold flanges for $45. DSM oulet flange and T3 outlet flanges are $18.
However, Megan Racing does make a nice tubular manifold with a T3 flange for $250. Not positive on the quality, but they do make good products. The down side is there are no provisions for and external gate. That's not a bad thing since any mass produced DSM manifold will exit the wastegate on the timing belt side. No good for RWD projects.
I think a good welder could make a good manifold for under $300, but that doesn't account for profit.
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DJpowerHaus
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My vote for flange is for a T3 flange. If you're serious enough to do the swap you shouldnt be messing around with no weak little Mitsubishi turbo with an internal gate.

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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Bill Hincher
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the mold doesnt have to be made out of steel......it can be bondo or plastic for that matter.......it has to be built so you have extra material to machine the flanges........and all measure must be at least 1-2 % BIGGER than the original size you want...........so you cant make exactly what you want.....you have to allow it to shrink to the size you want............hell....you can make it outta wood.............its hard to get wall thickness equal....I bet clear plastic would be the way to go.....with flexable clear thick wall plastic tubing....build a flange outta clear plastic plate,,same with the turbo flange..........plenty of real good glue out there.....I gotta do my taxes this week and get this adaptor worked out and I will go see the cast guy and see what he says
Hincher
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DJpowerHaus
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blue_crush
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i agree with DJ why even bother with the mitsu flange,I vote go T3.
Cast is durable, while tubular has the performance, and weaker. I know afew guys running a stainless header and they havent had any problems, they say if its built correctly and has the support it needs then you shouldnt have a problem.
Cast is durable, while tubular has the performance, and weaker. I know afew guys running a stainless header and they havent had any problems, they say if its built correctly and has the support it needs then you shouldnt have a problem.
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Bill Hincher
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heat is the big reason.............hot gas travels faster........thats why turbo guys insulate thier hedders feeding the turbo........so the gas dont slow down............the cast manifold keeps the exhaust gas hot longer............I like to insulate my exhaust after the muffler on my hot rods.....just to get rid of the spent gas faster......and cool down the cockpit..........
I know some guys say that equal length hedders on turbos doesnt matter because you are not dealing with scaveging affect like you do with naturally aspirated engines..........but you have to make sure there is enough length to get the heat away from the exhaust valve quickly.......make sure you have 6 inches of travel to get the heat away from the head before you make it work the turbo........
Bill