Hey guys/gals
Have been doing alot of reading into this and am a bit undecided on a startup method for my engine.
Most of the reading says you want to avoid idling on a new engine as this does nothing to bed the rings. All well and good. So needs load to bed them.
As the car isnt able to be driven on the road i'll have to do this on the dyno.
My main question is: am i able to start and run the engine for a minute or two at idle to check for leaks etc before taking it to the dyno, or will this ruin the bedding process? Just don't want to end up strapping it down on the dyno, being charged by the minute, to find ive got half a dozen leaks to fix before we can actually do anything (worst case scenario)
Also what method have others here used for bedding the rings? Alot of people seem to swear by just running wastegate boost and loading up the engine, then braking (not engine braking) then loading up again, and braking again.
Any input appreciated
4g63 first startup thoughts
Moderators: DJpowerHaus, mattmartindrift
4g63 first startup thoughts
86 Starion EX Racecar 4g63t DOHC
When I did it on my motor, I did start it up to idle and check for leaks. I didn't run it for long and didnt get the motor up to temperature but made sure nothing fell apart and all of that.
For break in, I drove it but a dyno will work the same. I did a few ramp ups to 4000-5000rpm using only 50% throttle (trying to aboid boost basically) a couple times and let the engine slow itself down each time. Once I did a couple of those cycles, I increased the throttle input to 75% and rpm to 5000-6000rpm and did a few more cycles, again letting the engine slow itself down. After that, I did a few 100% throttle pulls to 6000-7000rpm, let the engine slow itself each time, and then let it idle a bit to cool the turbo and shut it down and changed the oil.
I did frequent oil changes to help keep the crap and assembly line from messing things up. I changed after break in, 50 miles, then 150 miles, and then 500 miles. It gets repetitive and feels silly but it's cheap insurance.
Letting the engine slow itself is also important as it helps the rings set themselves on both the top and bottom.
For break in, I drove it but a dyno will work the same. I did a few ramp ups to 4000-5000rpm using only 50% throttle (trying to aboid boost basically) a couple times and let the engine slow itself down each time. Once I did a couple of those cycles, I increased the throttle input to 75% and rpm to 5000-6000rpm and did a few more cycles, again letting the engine slow itself down. After that, I did a few 100% throttle pulls to 6000-7000rpm, let the engine slow itself each time, and then let it idle a bit to cool the turbo and shut it down and changed the oil.
I did frequent oil changes to help keep the crap and assembly line from messing things up. I changed after break in, 50 miles, then 150 miles, and then 500 miles. It gets repetitive and feels silly but it's cheap insurance.
Letting the engine slow itself is also important as it helps the rings set themselves on both the top and bottom.