question on mounts

screemin eagle · Post by **screemin eagle** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 10:36 pm

ok im a lil confused about wich mounts to use and im not spending that kinda of money for buschurs stuff.now do i use the right side mounts(passenger?) is it the brackets off the block or is it the part that bolts to the cradle? and the other option was the mm 2.0 mounts correct?
Thanks

peregrine · Post by **peregrine** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 7:15 pm

just use MM mounts. thats what buschur is selling. i dont understand how he gets $150 APIECE for them though. they must be made out of gold. i piad $10 for mine in perfect condition.

screemin eagle · Post by **screemin eagle** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 7:56 pm

cool thanks.was that with the bracket that bolts to the block too?

peregrine · Post by **peregrine** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 8:04 pm

screemin eagle wrote:cool thanks.was that with the bracket that bolts to the block too?

yeah its one piece.

blue_crush · Post by **blue_crush** » Mon Apr 17, 2006 9:20 pm

this may sound dumb but could i ask what year of mighty max and engine size? sorry but im having the same problems with the stock quest motor mounts. and i would rather not buy buschurs either.

peregrine · Post by **peregrine** » Mon Apr 17, 2006 11:16 pm

blue_crush wrote:this may sound dumb but could i ask what year of mighty max and engine size? sorry but im having the same problems with the stock quest motor mounts. and i would rather not buy buschurs either.

its an 88-89 2.0 mighty max.

blue_crush · Post by **blue_crush** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 5:48 pm

sweet!, thanx man. im gettin closer and closer.

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:47 pm

Any body have any 240SX to 4G63 mounts.. haha. Its going to be a shame to show off this car for the first time with crooked mounts.

TruckA · Post by **TruckA** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 7:46 pm

I may have an extra set of Mighty Max mounts if you still need some. I'll have to check, but I'd sell them cheap as they're used.

blue_crush · Post by **blue_crush** » Wed Apr 19, 2006 8:51 pm

im ordering new ones. but keep them on the back burner because you know how part stores can be. how cheap anyway?

TruckA · Post by **TruckA** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 6:48 am

$25 shipped to you as long as you're not too far away. I'm in Raleigh, NC. I'll have to make sure that I also have the metal sleeve piece that hugs the engine mount. I'll try to look for the mounts and take photos this afternoon.

screemin eagle · Post by **screemin eagle** » Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:38 am

TruckA YOUVE BEEN PM'ED

blue_crush · Post by **blue_crush** » Sat Apr 22, 2006 12:15 pm

ive got new mounts for the frame, but i need the mounts to bolt to the motor. got those? if ya do ill take em

blue_crush · Post by **blue_crush** » Sun Apr 30, 2006 10:22 pm

I noticed the mounting holes on the turbo side of the block are a little bit crooked. I was wondering if this was normal? Thanks.

GRNDSM · Post by **GRNDSM** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 3:46 pm

Guys, what I do not like about MM mounts is how soft they are… They were designed to work with 120hp/~130ft*lbs motor. When I had a MM, I was amazed just how easily I could move the motor +1/2” by applying around 50lbs with my hand. I hate to see just how much this engine would move under 300-400ft*lbs of torque!

So my question is two fold:

- How are these working out for those who are using them? What torque are you running? Have you seen your engine on a dyno?
- Are there are any high-performance alternatives from ES or Prothane for MM?

Since I am starting from scratch on my project, I have everything set-up to work with a small block Chevy ES mounts. But I am somewhat concerned that they will be too stiff for a 4 banger

. Has anyone used any other aftermarket mounts?

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Mon Oct 02, 2006 6:02 pm

Its very simple to weld a "torque restrictor" onto the mount. Most Starion rubber mounts have a metal shield around them. You can weld a tab accross the top of it that only lets the top of the mount come up about 1/4" or less even. Shelby told me to do it once so I figured I'd give it a shot. I'll get some videos of the car on the dyno next week (this week I hope) to show if it works or not. A 400+ ft/lb car with 15 year old stock mounts... we'll see if it works.

GRNDSM · Post by **GRNDSM** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 9:42 am

I remember seeing metal square tubes welded to the motor mounts on Plebani’s Starion. Wouldn’t that create noise under WOT or even partial throttle, after the two pieces of metal meet?

I didn’t like that approach and went with the SBC mounts. But now, I am afraid that they will be too stiff for our light engine

. I guess there is one sure way to find out: install them and fire-up the engine

.

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 2:09 pm

Stedebani Mounts are on my upgrade path if there wont suffice.

And if you can hear anything at WOT, you're exhaust is too restrictive

GRNDSM · Post by **GRNDSM** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 3:00 pm

That isn't the type of "noise" that I was concerned with

. I was thinking more in terms of the knock sensor and resultant false knock...

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 4:23 pm

Does the OEM knock sensor even operate over 3000rpm? Most aftermarket knock sensors are unusable over those RPMs as well.

GRNDSM · Post by **GRNDSM** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 12:11 am

DJpowerHaus wrote:Does the OEM knock sensor even operate over 3000rpm? Most aftermarket knock sensors are unusable over those RPMs as well.

I hope so, or there would have been a lot of blown 4G63s

Our knock sensors will register knock as high as you will rev it.

Once you get into standalone EMS, you get to see the actual signal from the knock sensor and it isn't pretty. Our engines make a LOT of different noises. Some are filtered out, while others are read by ECU as phantom knock and you get timing retard when there no harmful engine knock. Things like tapping lifters, banging exhaust or even drivetrain vibrations are sometime miss-identified as knock by ECU. That is why it is never a good idea to introduce new noises.