YOU WON'T BELIEVE...how much you improved your car & clutch action!
10mm adjustment rod (vs. 8mm) and NO RUBBER SLUG
(that wears out) new, clevis pin, washer & cotter pin, too!
Extra threads= more adjustment lenght!
Out with the old...IN with the NEW!
$40+s&h
The SOS suggest you READ that entire chapter...only to figure out,
that rod was never LONG enough!
Just roll your ankle a lil'....BANG THE NEXT GEAR!
Psst, do you need a harden steel bushing for you clutch pedal?
NO CHARGE, when you buy our adjustment rod!
Last edited by Professor Quest on Fri Mar 15, 2013 8:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I recently just rebuilt my clevis because the rubber gromet let go. I rebuilt it with 3 x 12mm washers and some grease. Now it is awesome. No play = the bomb.
Most of them have too much wear to bother with and it's not LONG enough
to take-up the slack from elongated holes & worn-out clevis pins, too.
These SOS pics were taken about 2004. If you elect to NOT read,
all the "Clutch" chapter...that places you lacking knowledge almost
10 years too late.
My first design that I still use in my 87 Conquest.
My second design was cheaper to manufactor.
My 1970 CJ Mustang had a clutch problem: the 3/8" rod would fold-over
after I installed the Hayes Mark 12 clutch.
The cure: SHORTEN its ROD LENGHT! (use a yoke & shorter rod)
If you like a HD clutch... you'd better UPGRADE your other parts, too.
Btw, just so you all know...that "dampner" inside the slave, is a SLOWER
RETURN RATE. It's a one-way restrictor. Coverd in the SOS, years ago.
The "idea" was... NOT CHIRPPING your tires as you left a stand-still.
It SLOWS-DOWN the clutch engagement. DUMP the RESTRICTOR!
Yep! We dicked-around with other "ideas" that just sucked!
10mm is gonna be MUCH STRONGER than 8mm! And
that "rubber-bell" was just a weak-link designed as a CUSH.
It's very nice, to open a box and find out what is inside!
THEE BOMB ADJUSTMENT ROD!
U.S. postal PRIORITY you'd have a HD clutch,replacement adjustment rod
in about 72 hours.
Had polarisman14 read the "Clutch Replacement", in the SOS, FIRST...
he would have fixed/replace the worn-out parts.
Polarisman14 said this:
"Update, I got the clutch pedal assembly out of the car (oh, what fun!) and confirmed that the clevis pin hole was badly egg-shaped and the rubber grommet inside the "bell" was deformed and cracked as well. It was allowing, let's just say, a "generous" amount of play before the rod actually started to move into the clutch cylinder. I'd venture a guess that with those two things fixed it will double the amount of travel the rod makes into the cylinder, and should fix the issue I was having. Short of replacing the cylinder and doing a full repair and bleed of the system, there isn't much more I can do to fix this so hopefully it does! Thanks again! "
I can...sell you this OEM Mitsu's part for $15+s&h.
It don't come with the clevis pin, however. It's a seperate part.
BOLT-IN PARTS! (comes with the RIGHT clevis pin)
Do you HELP people...for not reffering-back to PQ?
(505) 299-9012. Or email me.
Some guys "repair" work is a JOKE, in my book!
Did you want the adjustment rod to "DEFORM" the bell housing?
1. max-out the lenght of adjustment rod
2. do not remove all that corrosion from the slave
Btw, what use is all that grease for? So it don't allow
the washers to make noise?
you'd better UPGRADE your other parts, too.
