4g64 wide block.....???

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Siance
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4g64 wide block.....???

Post by Siance »

Just a couple of questions guys..

*How do you know what compression you are going to be running? even if you go with a 8:1 pistons, the compression may be higher because of the head deck height...so how can you tell.
*I could have sowrn i read some where that the 4g63 head is not totally plug in play with the 4g64 block, yes it bolts up, but don't you have to weld the water jackets, or something like that?
*I want to do a 4g63T swap in my starion, but the more i think about it...It would be useless to build a 400hp 4g63 and hook to a d50 trans...Would you guys say that the cost to build the 4g64 and the 4g63 would be the same..??? I know it really depends on what you find...but whats cheaper in the long run?
* What kind of fuel and computer whould i have to run, could i just use a 4g63 fuel computer + DSMlink combo?
*I would think that the 4g64 is a complete bolt in the starion being thats it's a wide block....4g64 block and starion trans bolts right in correct?
*Now i know this kind of hybrid is new, but what kind of top RPM would i be looking at with the 4g64.....I have the 2.6 w/18g@15psi and it's pretty fast, but it will not rev for the life of it....runs out of stem @5 grand...:( one of the reason i want to do this swap is because i want a more rev type engine, So whats the redline of the 4g64/4g63 head combo?

thanks for the time
Mike
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Post by Mike »

The stock 2.4L has a redline of 5800RPM, but that is with the SOHC head which wouldn't do any good beyond that. There isn't even a rev limiter on these trucks, probably because it's near impossible to over rev it with that head. A 2.3L stroker motor is fine with the stock 2.0L rev limiter of 7500RPM, and if anything, the 2.4L would prove to be more durable.
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Re: 4g64 wide block.....???

Post by DJpowerHaus »

Siance wrote:Just a couple of questions guys..

*How do you know what compression you are going to be running? even if you go with a 8:1 pistons, the compression may be higher because of the head deck height...so how can you tell.
Piston companies, for example Wiseco, make pistons for this specific bottom end / head combination. They have measured all the little like cc of the head to come up with the 8.5:1 compression ratio for their 6 bolt pistons. They actually post a range of what it could be based on either decking the block or surfacing the head, but its all based on stock heights which is where they get 8.5:1 from. 7 bolts are a different ratio I think, but you dont want to fiddle with a 7 bolt anyways.
*I could have sowrn i read some where that the 4g63 head is not totally plug in play with the 4g64 block, yes it bolts up, but don't you have to weld the water jackets, or something like that?
Again this confusion comes from the differences between 6 bolt and 7 bolt engines. 7 bolts do require some blocking off of holes in the bottom end. 6 bolt heads are bolt on, unless I've heard and seen otherwise. Here is a picture I put together to compare the headgasket, block and head of a 6 bolt setup. The headgasket is meant for the head, so if it blocks anything on the head, it would have done that on a 2.0 DSM motor as well.

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*I want to do a 4g63T swap in my starion, but the more i think about it...It would be useless to build a 400hp 4g63 and hook to a d50 trans...Would you guys say that the cost to build the 4g64 and the 4g63 would be the same..??? I know it really depends on what you find...but whats cheaper in the long run?
It definatly is pointless to make any power and expect a D50 trans to hold up.... but I dont think that's really the cause of their weakness. I'm pretty sure that's becuase they were not meant to have over 5800rpm input shaft speeds, and you'll easily get it to 8000rpm with a 4G63 / 4 setup. The starion bearing setup is better at higher RPMs, but if you're going wideblock, you might as well go with the B2600/RX7 setup which is good for 10,000 rpm rotary revs and power.

As for the costs. The 4G64 / 4G63 build prices are identical and cheaper if you can get your block and crank cheaper (there is less demand for them than 4G63 turbo narrow blocks). They use the same rods, bearings, bolts, studs, etc. If you didnt have a micrometer you probably couldnt tell the difference internally. The only thing that you might spend a little more on is the pistons, but only because less places carry them and there are less competative prices on them from mom and pop shops. Summit Racing is the way to go unless someone knows otherwise. This might at $50 to the cost of the build.
* What kind of fuel and computer whould i have to run, could i just use a 4g63 fuel computer + DSMlink combo?
Yes, that setup will work fine. I have heard of people using stock ECU and an SAFC as well, but for the cost of all that stuff (if you really add up everything you need to get it up and running and dialed in, you might as well get a used standalone and be done with it.
*I would think that the 4g64 is a complete bolt in the starion being thats it's a wide block....4g64 block and starion trans bolts right in correct?
It is bolt in as far as motor and transmission mounts and the driveshaft, but the real problem comes from the stuff on the back of the head like the CAS and water outlet. That's the real task we need to figure out on here. Is there a best method to clear the firewall?
*Now i know this kind of hybrid is new, but what kind of top RPM would i be looking at with the 4g64.....I have the 2.6 w/18g@15psi and it's pretty fast, but it will not rev for the life of it....runs out of stem @5 grand...:( one of the reason i want to do this swap is because i want a more rev type engine, So whats the redline of the 4g64/4g63 head combo?
I have heard that its 7500 for the 2.4, but I venture to guess that 8K is fine too (just not on paper). Have you considered a 2.1L hybrid? That'll rev to 11,000rpm. Of course it gets ALOT more expensive and precision machining and tollerances are a requirement at this point. Plus you need hard to find rods and pistons and all the head work and cams needed for those high RPMs.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Siance
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Post by Siance »

Cool, thanks for the info... more questions

*My goal is about 400hp, whether i use the 2.0 or 2.4 ..Now dj i know you had the d50 trans for a while....Just so im understood...i don't plan on doing alot of drag racing(twice a year, if that)....im more of a dyno, street race(from a roll) type guy..Your saying the d-50 trans won't hold up? i don't think the starion trans whould hold up to numerous 400-500hp launches...
*Dj you said one guy did d-50/starion guts into the d-50 trans but his failed in a year, how much power was he pusing, and was he drag racing mostly?
*What the hell did Eric Pebani do so his hybrid d-50 trans would hold up?
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Siance wrote:Cool, thanks for the info... more questions

*My goal is about 400hp, whether i use the 2.0 or 2.4 ..Now dj i know you had the d50 trans for a while....Just so im understood...i don't plan on doing alot of drag racing(twice a year, if that)....im more of a dyno, street race(from a roll) type guy..Your saying the d-50 trans won't hold up? i don't think the starion trans whould hold up to numerous 400-500hp launches...
I drag raced once, but the car was daily driven.. 70 miles a day for a year and a half until I moth balled it to focus on the drift car. It did do a bunch of drift events (probably around 1 / month) too.
*Dj you said one guy did d-50/starion guts into the d-50 trans but his failed in a year, how much power was he pusing, and was he drag racing mostly?
He was doing Hillclimbs and other fun things. He was making good power from an Evo8 turbo setup.
*What the hell did Eric Pebani do so his hybrid d-50 trans would hold up?
Its important to remember that its RPM that seems to kill the input bearing.. not breaking shafts or breaking gears. My guess is that his stuff was built for drag cars that saw more garage and track than traffic and commuting.

I could certainly be wrong. His parts combination is still unknown, but seemed to do the job. If only he could share it here. (Even though I'm still not going to open up another D50 or Starion transmission if my life depended on it).
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Siance
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Post by Siance »

lol.....My dad and brother said they would help me....but for now, im going to do what you did...just get the swap running.....who knows i might even get Eric to build me a trans....
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Post by peregrine »

Siance wrote:lol.....My dad and brother said they would help me....but for now, im going to do what you did...just get the swap running.....who knows i might even get Eric to build me a trans....
go auto. its easier and cheaper in the long run. dont let these guys tell you its not fun. whats not fun is your fucking car sitting in the garage for a year with a broken tranny. :lol:
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DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Yeah, totally. If its a drag car and you're serious, the auto setup is the way to go.
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Siance
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Location: Jacksonville, NC

Post by Siance »

nope not a drag car....I want fun street beast with a gt35r turbo...
blue1
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Post by blue1 »

The starion tranny will hold up to 450 whp ok just give it fresh bearings to start with, i have been flogging the crap out of mine with 300 kw atw and no real issues yet! just they hate real fast gear changes!
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

It is amazing how different the D50 and Starion transmissions are even though they look the same from the outside.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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