2.3 Stroker 4G63 92 Notchback project

KyleCim · Post by **KyleCim** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:28 pm

Decided I would create my own build thread on here. I know there have already been a few Mustang 4G swaps started and Andy even finished his and ran 9's first time out, but these threads are always interesting. This idea came to me a few years ago but I never gave it much thought thinking I did not have the time or energy for the build. After the shootout and watching my buddy Matt with his 4G swapped E30 I had to do it.

I have been into fox body mustangs well before dsm's. Well the time has come and through some thought, me and my father decided to take on this project and finally mix the 2 cars I love into 1 durable drag/semi street car. I picked up a 1992 4 cylinder automatic off craigslist for $450. The car ran and actually drove decently but had been backed into the drivers door and fender.

Plan's for the car are more race-oriented then the laser ended up. Picked up a freshly built 2.3 Stroker(eagle rods, weisco pistons) with a BJ's head, BC 280's and I plan on using either a pte 6262 or a BW turbo. I will be using a GM automatic with Bill Hincher's adapter (th350 with trans brake) and will run 275/50/15 M/T drag radials to start and 4.30 rear gear on an 8.8 rear end with strange axles and spool. DSMlink V3, speed density etc and air to water intercooling.

Full UPR suspension (chrome-moly front k-member/coilovers and maximum motorsports caster/camber plates, strange struts) Flaming river manual rack, UPR pro series rear control arms, torque box reinforcements, strange shocks and UPR coilovers.

I will keep updating this with pictures and progress. Thanks for the space guys!

KyleCim · Post by **KyleCim** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:33 pm

Front K-member and Engine/Trans removal-

Craigslist score - $250

Weld Pro Star 15x10 (6.25 backspace) and 15x4 Skinnys. I was going to stay 4-lug and use the draglites off my white mustang but I needed to switch to v8 spindles and all I had was some 5 lug swap stuff around so biting the bullet now. They came with M/T Sportsman's but obviously those will not be going on the car.

Some Shot's as things progressed-

Upr Tube K-member ready to be installed-

K member and tubular control arms-

Took the stupid wing off today as well...

and some other parts for the car picked up barely used/new for cheap-

KyleCim · Post by **KyleCim** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:36 pm

Initially I had no plans to do anything besides paint the bay, but my buddy Victor talked me into welding all the holes. So we got them all covered. FORK FORD, no need whatsoever to have that many holes.

Not as baller as the Scott rod panels but it will have to do for my budget.

I picked up amystery $100 th350 off craigslist- appears to be a 9" tailshaft (truck/wagon) issue unit. Seller said it was behind a 502 crate and has a shift kit and fresh rebuild. Also came with a 2200 stall b&m converter. Maybe I will get it running on this thing, we will see.

Stout/hopefully un-breakable drivetrain (8.8 with strange 33 spline 5 lug axles w/ 1/2 studs, pro race spool, c-clip eliminators, ford racing 4.30's and the th350)

Mitsubishi wiring harness trim/modification in progress (big thanks to my father for setting it up on the table and always being there to help)

Bill Hinchers work of art gm auto-4G63 adapter plate with mid plate ears

Custom steel alternator relocation bracket salvaged from Victors burnt race car, thanks bud

Pretty cool and somewhat rare manual fox body mirrors

Craigslist special used Flaming River close ratio manual steering rack and UPR bump steer kit-

UPR billet spherical rear end bushings

Upper and lower rear torque box re-enforcements

UPR pro series Upper double adjustable control arms and lower single adjustable with no spring perch (all solid bushings)

Rear coilover sleeve for strange adjustable shock, rear 10" 125lb spring vs front 14" 130lb spring and front strange strut with coilover sleeve installed

KyleCim · Post by **KyleCim** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 12:43 pm

Grinding the welds down, some pictures after I finished that up, then threw on some bondo-

The wiring harness on the engine side is pretty much done, we have it routed and ECU location picked out. Need to tie the mitsu harness ignition switch wiring into the Ford now.

Puddy/Filler-

Now that the engine bay is mostly done, I was able to get back to mechanical things today. I am excited about the project again, it is nice to see it in there and visualize things like the exhaust manifold and routing of other things.

Had to spend some time digging out the bare block I had and find the front engine mount, bolt on a head and get everything set up for the cherry picker. I am thinking i may need to slide the engine back a little more but we will see.

jeffball610 · Post by **jeffball610** » Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:24 pm

WOW! Looks great. Looks like you're well on your way and you have some great parts to work with. Craigslist is one of the greatest inventions of our time. (I guess it's an invention)

It looks like you should have some room to move the motor back, but the transmission will really determine that for you. Is the trans tunnel more narrow on the 4 cylinder Mustangs than the V8 version?

Those holes in the engine bay are for weight savings and you just filled them in!?

And is that your shinny Laser from your signature? Got a build thread somewhere on that thing?

dees75z · Post by **dees75z** » Wed Mar 09, 2011 12:34 am

Looking good man!!!!

89coltgt · Post by **89coltgt** » Wed Mar 09, 2011 11:39 pm

Looks good Kyle, keep the updates coming!

KyleCim · Post by **KyleCim** » Thu Mar 10, 2011 11:30 am

Thanks guys, last night I took some time and started looking into mounting options. My friend Tony stopped by and he had a th350 Mid plate laying around his shop which he donated to the cause. Shockingly, it fits almost perfect between the mustang frame rails.

What do you guys typically use for the drivers side mount? I see 3 holes that appear to be the best option (2 holes right in the middle towards the bottom) but they appear to be smaller threaded holes. I am mounting by the midplate, 2 bottom mounts off the K-member and possibly a arched mount from the front.

Here is the Laser for you guys wondering-

This winter I ditched the T4 exhaust housing and DNP manifold and went with the FP cast stuff on the Laser so it is now using a mitsu based 35R.

Matt Arruda · Post by **Matt Arruda** » Tue Mar 15, 2011 12:25 am

Kyle, let me know if you need pics of my mounts. both TJ and I use only the 2 bosses on each side of the block that are level with each other. If you want to use the 3 bosses you will need to get creative with differnt height mouting plates because the third hole is not on the same plane.

T(urd)67 · Post by **T(urd)67** » Fri Mar 18, 2011 5:57 pm

Looks good.

I'd like to see how the motor plate set up works. If you run the mid plate and a front plate you probably don't even need the passenger and driver side mounts to the k-member. Actually, isn't the point of the motor plates to get rid of the factory style mounts? Wouldn't bother me to have that bitch bolted down as much as possible though.

Maybe I missed it, but are you going to be using a stock oil pan? If so the sump will not let you push the motor back very far before it hits the steering rack. That was the biggest determining factor in the motor placement for me on mine. I may see about modifying the oil pick up and making a rear sump style pan before it's all said and done though.

Good luck!

TsTKl · Post by **TsTKl** » Sun Mar 20, 2011 4:56 pm

KyleCim wrote:Here is the Laser for you guys wondering-

I was

KyleCim · Post by **KyleCim** » Mon Mar 21, 2011 7:37 am

I am still going to use the side motor mounts, Kevin Jewer cracked a block this year and is thinking it may be due to the mid-plate/no side mount design but I will take my chances and bolt the sucker down at every possible point lol.

As far as oil pan, plan is to make a rear sump with extended pick-up tube. This would have to be too far forward for my liking to fit a stock pan in there

KyleCim · Post by **KyleCim** » Wed Jul 13, 2011 11:32 pm

I guess any progress is good progress, cut out the plates for my motor mounts tonight and drilled/fitted the block side mounts. Original plan was just to use the 2 horizontal holes on the pass side but I like triangles for strength so I made the plate bigger to incorporate the lower original front roll stop bolt hole. Plates still need to have the corners rounded and edges smoothed with the grinder, that will come later.

Passenger Side-

Drivers side-

Next up I think I am going to cut up a stock pan and tack on a 6" rear sump, 2" deep front sump so I can get this positioned exactly where I want it, also waiting for the JMF drag to be finished but I will have plenty of room for that regardless. It would just be nice to have it while making the final mounts to see where everything is.

KyleCim · Post by **KyleCim** » Sun Jul 24, 2011 10:18 pm

Big thanks to Tony and Bob Niemczyk, more baby steps made this weekend..... Picked up one of their RWD rear sump pans and pickup tubes from the dragster. Next step is mount the trans and check trans tunnel clearance then mount this bitch up. JMF drag manifold should be done soon as well.

dees75z · Post by **dees75z** » Sun Jul 31, 2011 2:13 am

looking great man!!!

KyleCim · Post by **KyleCim** » Fri Aug 05, 2011 8:24 am

Another piece to the puzzle, thanks JMFab-

gimmie11s · Post by **gimmie11s** » Thu Mar 08, 2012 6:12 pm

Please tell me this car is running.................

gingerbredman00 · Post by **gingerbredman00** » Sat Mar 17, 2012 9:48 am

gimmie11s wrote:Please tell me this car is running.................

x2