Mad Menace's 1993 Mighty Max Project

[Mad Menace]

Hello everyone,
This is my first post and will be my thread throughout my Project for now.
First off lets get the formalities out of the way, and ask the questions first while your still reading.
1. DOHC or SOHC oil pump cover?
2. Is swapping say just the head (since its already the 4g64) pretty straight forward? (non-turbo) i.e, wiring, ECU? or does something creative have to be done? I got the water issue and the intake manifold issue under control.
3. Whats the options for the MAF now that the intake is on the other side of the engine bay?
4. I have been told that I will need to extend wiring to the CAS, does this apply if it already has the 4g64?
5. Will my ECU and harness work or will I absolutely have to swap one out from something else?
6. last one for now I swear... Cooling fan, electric or original? which begs to ask Serpentine or "V" belt setup?
( p.s. I live in an emissions free county in the middle of nowhere )

I have a 1993 Mitsu MM with a stock 8v sohc 4g64 5 speed Manual
I also have 1 extra 4g64 short wideblock, and an entire DOHC could be 4g63 or 4g64 (gotta go look since perception finally hit) I know its a 7 bolt but there are BOTH 7 bolt models... anyway... I got all that in 1 day!!!
I got all the makings of a good engine, so heres the plan, I am actually going to be doing 2 builds. 1 sorta quick but to the point and another to build a Meaty Max instead of Mighty Max
The Max is in need of an Engine as soon as I get one ready to go in, she leaks, she squeaks, and she blows it out her tail pipe (literally) Power is gone, fuel mileage is suffering and Its just about that time. (plus I gave her a wicked paint job this summer)

So what I plan to do is re-ring, and bearing this short block (sat a while with water settled into the #4 after being rebuilt) and start there. I will label this as Block "A"
Teardown of the questionable block (block "B") begins when I finish this post, and tomorrow the head will go to the machine shop to get all the inner workings checked out and re-surfaced, the intake manifold will go to work with me and get flipped on its flange and re welded (probably sometime this weekend or next week) Swap the head to block "A", re-locate the thermostat housing (most likely with a Jayracing re-location kit) install MM water pump and Im not sure on the oil pump housing if I need the DOHC or the SOHC oil pump cover, install intake and exhaust manifolds, some creative piping to pipe the intake to the MAF (and/or extend/re-route the MAF wiring) Figure out the cooling fan deal, ECU deal, belt/pulleys deal and get some new motor mounts and drop in the 1st of 2.

So now Block "A" will be in my truck as a DOHC and the REAL build begins...
I want to sell Block "B" since it's a narrow block and useless to my purposes to get started on Block "C" which i will want to bore and sleeve, and put in aftermarket forged crank for the 4g63t, "H" beam connecting rods and race bearings. then begin collecting up parts to rebuild the DOHC head with performance parts (or simply get a second head), aftermarket Intake manifold, bigger injectors, turbo exhaust and turbo, and probably a stand alone ECM with "options":lol:

Sorry if Im rambling, and I will get pics posted up tomorrow of all this good stuff I got, after the sun comes back out to play

[Mad Menace]

Confirmed this morning that I do indeed have a wide and narrow 4g64 (now sitting in my living room )
So the plan for today is:
Block "B" Tear down last night/this morning
1. Take head to machine shop to be checked out,cleaned and re-surfaced
2. Buy gasket kit, oil pump cover, water pump and a new thermostat housing (since I shattered the old one moving the engine this morning)
3. Begin modification of intake manifold ( I think I am going to go with the flip on the flange mod)
and if theres time later remove the #4 piston from Block "A" to see if i need/should purchase new rings and bearings. (block "A" was re-built already but had water settle in the #4)

Pics coming soon.

[Mad Menace]

So I got Block "B" tore down...
I found a destroyed Exhaust Valve in the #3 hole and a cracked Exhaust Valve in the #4 hole... Wonder how this thing ran before it got wrecked
Anyway, this was in lieu of the fact that they had rebuilt the upper end recently in attempts to get this pig running but never seperated the head from the block to figure out the true problem,
The cams show signs of having been worked, I found new valve stem seals, springs, lash adjusters and new gaskets all around the head except under it.
Block "A" was tore down to replace the piston rings and connecting rod/main bearings and I found that the block has been recently bored to .020" over (crosshatching still perfect) and the crank has been turned as well and I think was taken to .020" under (the stamp in the back of the bearings says .5 and isnt 0.5mm = .020"?)
The pistons are for the 12V head so I gotta get pistons now too.
So next week I will most likely be purchasing myself a lower end kit and a valve kit.

And I think I have made my decision to go with a full standalone ECU most likely a Megasquirt, based solely on price and the availability to upgrade as wanted/necessary.

[Gentleman Rogue]

the Jay Racing fitting will need to be modified if youre running stock size pullies; coming straight out of the head, it runs into the pulley. just a heads up.

[Mad Menace]

OK I will have to look into that when I get home in the morning.
Just as a side thought and all tho, the freeze plug in the front of this head has been replaced and has been leaking so theres a build up of wax on the outside, I remember clearly looking at it and thinking that for sure it would clear, but you have called in second judgement.

Now Real fas I would like to ask and see if anyone has a suggestion here...
I have 2 cranks right now from both block "A" and "B", Block "A"'s crank has been turned to where I am not quite sure right off, but crank "B" has not, going by better judgement what would be the better option here:
1. have crank "B" ground to spec for my own personal knowledge and use it
or
2. check crank "A" for size and use it since it's in great shape really and has been ground already which will need to be done in the rebuild anyway?

also which bearings would be best to go with? ACL race or King? these are kings I have tore out of block "A" and all have VERY minimal usage.

[Mad Menace]

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.c ... D=31779407
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.c ... D=31779413

Heres the freeze plug on the head, I dont think it will interfere with the jay racing water neck once it gets here but I could be wrong
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.c ... D=31779417

Sorry for making you have to look on myspace, this is all I have for now.

I am running into a few unexpected problems, 1st the water pump from wide to narrow are different, 2nd not sure which of 3 oil pump covers I am going to need to use (obviously one of the 2 DOHC's right?)