This is my truck.It is a 90 max.It has the 4g64 with 2g head and 20g turbo.The rear end is a ford 8.8 with 26 11.5 m/t's.It's best pass to date is 12.1@120mph.
I was supposed to be a daily with a goal of 300tq.It has now become a 540tq heavy clutch hassle.I am planing on downgrading soon to a 2.0 with t25.
This not the best pass but its my favorite.I was still on the max rear end and 14" tires.
Seems like 12.1 @ 120mph is pretty fast. You still think he should be running faster? I believe the 8.8 ford came in the explorer. Why are you downgrading to the t-25? Better for the street? Anyhow, sweet truck!
The max tranny does not shift very well.I am out of boost for nearly a full second.My 60's are lacking also with averaging at 1.9.
I am using a 95-99 explorer rear end.It literally bolts in.I changed the flare on the brake line,made a driveshaft,and machined down the hubs.I used the ford u bolts on the max plates.
Thats what i did.I have only use 5th in anger once.The problem appears to be the case.The shafts spread and i lost the input shaft bearing then stripped the gears.
I feel like it has an 11.8 in it.I miss my truck and would love to drive it with out fear breaking or having a huge left leg.
I need to know more about that Rear End Swap. what did you have to do to the Hubs? Also It looks like you did a 5 lug swap on the Front also...., I'm running around with 2 sets of 6 lug wheels and tires right now and don't need to change.
Mike M.
#847 F/BMMP
BNI/Sidewinders/ECTA
ECTA Record Holder/Bonneville Record Holder
ligo1 wrote:I do not know how to multi qoute guys,sorry.
The max tranny does not shift very well.I am out of boost for nearly a full second.My 60's are lacking also with averaging at 1.9.
I am using a 95-99 explorer rear end.It literally bolts in.I changed the flare on the brake line,made a driveshaft,and machined down the hubs.I used the ford u bolts on the max plates.
Thats what i did.I have only use 5th in anger once.The problem appears to be the case.The shafts spread and i lost the input shaft bearing then stripped the gears.
I feel like it has an 11.8 in it.I miss my truck and would love to drive it with out fear breaking or having a huge left leg.
Glad to hear someone that has experience with the explorer rear end. I was at the junkyard looking at some and they "looked" almost like it would just slot in there. Good thing someone confirmed it wasn't hard.
Thats what I was thinking. Reason isn't the 60', but that with 540 horses, there are DSMs going to high 10s weighing more than our trucks. I know traction is an issue, but didn't know if it was THE issue or if alot of it would be attributed to the trans' poor shifting ability. The OTHER reason I think he could be running faster, no offense Ligo, was because there have been 14b powered cars turning low 12s to high 11s. And with him running 11.5" wide slicks, his 60's are getting him out in close to stock AWD fasion...and with the lighter truck, faster than an eclipse should be possible.
Not much to it.Pull the hubs out and stick them in a lathe to use dsm sized wheels.If you use ford then there is no maching nessary.
shroder15 wrote:Thats what I was thinking. Reason isn't the 60', but that with 540 horses, there are DSMs going to high 10s weighing more than our trucks. I know traction is an issue, but didn't know if it was THE issue or if alot of it would be attributed to the trans' poor shifting ability. The OTHER reason I think he could be running faster, no offense Ligo, was because there have been 14b powered cars turning low 12s to high 11s. And with him running 11.5" wide slicks, his 60's are getting him out in close to stock AWD fasion...and with the lighter truck, faster than an eclipse should be possible.
The truck makes 540tq and 440hp.The turbo is too small and i see over 200 degree intake temps at the top of 4th.My truck weighs 2800lbs.
But thanks for diagnosing my problem,guy.
Here is another bench tunning riddle.I have a dsm that cuts 1.3 60's and runs mid 10's but only traps 127mph.
Wow...I wasn't trying to be a dick about it at all. In fact, your truck was part of what got me into wanting to do a might max...You have a great build, and I didn't intend to take away from it. But thanks for calling me out when all I was saying was that I think your truck has alot more left in it.
The truck makes 540tq and 440hp.The turbo is too small and i see over 200 degree intake temps at the top of 4th.My truck weighs 2800lbs.
But thanks for diagnosing my problem,guy.
Here is another bench tunning riddle.I have a dsm that cuts 1.3 60's and runs mid 10's but only traps 127mph.
Parasidic drivetrain loss. Dsm's are horrible for it. They sacrifice their trap speed for a fast ET like all awd cars. The problem that I've gad, my friend have had, and their friends with dsms have ALL had is the piss poor 1g tranny. If you launch it off of the rev limiter or anywhere above 5k, you can not shift into 2nd, the car coast for 40 ft while you grind your way to 2nd, build up boost, and away you go again. Most of the big hp dsms all run 12's in my area. If only they had a better transmission. arg...
2800lbs seems a little heavy for the max. I thought they were closer to 2400 or less. I could be wrong though.
shroder15 wrote:Wow...I wasn't trying to be a dick about it at all. In fact, your truck was part of what got me into wanting to do a might max...You have a great build, and I didn't intend to take away from it. But thanks for calling me out when all I was saying was that I think your truck has alot more left in it.
Shit happens and people get upset when they are told they are performing sub-par.Bah,internets.
Good luck on your build.
my bone stock D50 weighed in at a hair over 2600lbs.
awesome on the the rear- i might have to look into that. i have a passenger car 8.8 that i was going to narrow, but maybe if i could find a decent priced one around here, it might just be worth trying...
Sorry if it came across that way. Your hooking up without wheelhop, and thats pretty impressive in itself with the ammt. of torque you have. I never meant for it to sound like you were performing subpar, but that I thought it looked like ur shifts were forced to be slower with the max trans than they would be in say your DSM trans...thus hurting times...Great truck man, hopefully you can pull out the 11 with the max tranny...That'd definitely be impressive!.
Awesome man! I'm not sure where you live, but I have a spare D50 trans and a spare driveshaft. I'm in the Lynchburg, VA/Roanoke, VA area. You can have the driveshaft if you pick it up/meet partway and comp me for gas. Just let me know man.
I am running Megasquirt Spark / Extra on my Mighty Max 4g63 swap and the Launch control plus flatshift circuitry makes all the difference in the world for keeping the slow shifting setup in boost while I granny it in.
Just my two cents in case you where looking to get that edge back.
Nice pass...almost ran him down! Do you have any plans to improve the 1-2 shift in the future? Great launch tho man...way to break into the 11 sec club!
That pass was on 26x11.5x16" m/t et streets.
I am at about 8/1 cr.It is a tall deck wide 2.4 with wisecos.
That pass was on 24psi.I would estimate around 400whp.
I am not going to miss this truck.Heavy clutch that is now trashed after 1500 miles,spinning on tthe street until 70mph even on slicks,wondering if that funny noise was a 500 dollar mistake or 2500 dollar mistake.I won't miss any of that,i just want my work truck back.
Yes sir t25 and soft clutch.It will be great,besides the challenger is a better platform.11's in the truck and maybe 9's in the dodgeibishi.
Ligo's exact issues with his truck are what I am working to reduce with the Megasquirt setup and some Good basic suspension redesign.
I will do a Cal-trac setup if I can get one for cheap, a LSD, Adjustable shocks, 28" MT ET Streets, Launch Control, Flat shift, and Traction control.
Tailoring the boosted power curve along with transferring the weight to the back wheels with some good sticky tires while the electronics manage spin should net a pretty nasty combo while looking like a Beater.
I may not be in the 11.8 territory, but I will be shooting for 12's. on the Big 16g.
Hey Ligo, what did you have done as far as suspension work and how well did the truck hook at the track? I know you said it spun all day on the street, but those are M/T Radials correct? I know you ran the ford rear, but didn't know if you were running any traction bars, torsion bars, ladder bars or what not. Thanks again!
The only way i can get the tranny to go is nlts via the aem ecu in everyy gear.I use the dis-2 2-step for the launch.
I am using slapper bars on the stock leafs,they work fine for keeping the rear end from rolling and snapping a drive shaft.I may get a 1.6 if i loaded the clutch harder.
I think the weak link at this point is the yoke and the output shaft.I have abandoned the 5spd and plan on using the factory torqueflite in the dodge.Plenty of strong parts available for cheap all neatly packed in a wideblock case.
Hopefully someone can get a 1.6 on the 5spd tranny.I know somebody can get it and hopefully a 11.49.
Egoin,i think a 16g is the ticket.I am way off the map with the 20g and the 2.4,nearly 215 degree intake temp at the end of the track.The 16g compressor map looks better suited to the 2.4.
also, and i dont know how this would translate to a light, stick shifted truck, but in my '72 Duster, i ran Hoosier DOT QTP's. i didnt think the ET Streets hooked up as well, but the QTP's are like glue!
I can second the Hoosier QTP vote. They are far better at hooking that ET Streets, but neither of them are really good for running around on if you expect any water / rain in your drive.
I found out the hard way more than once what Hydroplane means.
how many miles you have on that engine? im going back and forth on building a 2.4 or just buying a 2.0. I drive about 400 miles a week and dont want to have to drive my coupe much, cause my truck down. I sent you a PM asking some questions, but im not sure you got it. if you have some time, id like to ask a couple questions, either by phone or PMs. Thanks man
Verdad wrote:how many miles you have on that engine? im going back and forth on building a 2.4 or just buying a 2.0. I drive about 400 miles a week and dont want to have to drive my coupe much, cause my truck down. I sent you a PM asking some questions, but im not sure you got it. if you have some time, id like to ask a couple questions, either by phone or PMs. Thanks man
Sure,ask away.Lets keep this public so everyone can participate.
Well from who I've spoken to so far, im going 2.4 for sure. where is the best site for a real comprehensive list of parts for the swap that is a solid source. I've gotten a 2g head and 1g cam sensor so far. I have tons of link bookmarked, but not alot of people post after the swap is running. I've actually searched enough to find your buddy's blue starion you did. So I guess in order.
1) Best site for a verified parts list.
2) What did you end up doing for fuel? In-tank or inline?
3) Obviously you build these, assuming wiseco and stock rods, and then wiseco and eagle rods, what kind of life would you give a well taken care of set-up?(tracked once every month or 2, tons of highway miles, well tuned and maintained)
4) WTB in car vids, when I was building my coupe, I'd watch enthropy vids till my eyes bled.
1)This site is the best so far.
2)I did a supra in tank but the sump is terrible for launching.
3)Yes,wiseco with standard pin location unlike short deck strokers.They call them 4g64 with 4g63 head.I tried stockers but ended up with 13/1 cr.
I would say they last as long as an average dsm.Just keep the revs down.I beat on mine constantly at 28psi reving to 7500.The motor was fine,just everything else broke.
4)yay?
To save ya'll some moneys.
I went through 3 clutch setups before i found one that worked.You must use the late starion sized disk and reinforce the firewall at the clutch pedal.
Weld a plate around the pick up in the pan.You will see what i mean.
Do not beat the fire wall,you will hate yourself.Use a 7bolt sensor setup and pull the water out the front of make a shallow pipe from the back with an in-line t-stat.Kiggly makes a bolt on crank sensor for 6bolt pumps.
Do not use 5th for power,the counter shaft has only one bearing.
Use the 94 galant cam gears for a tall deck block and 94 galant belt.
Use dsm pulley and water pump setup if you want ac.Use a dsm compressor with custom lines.
Wide 2.4's make massive torque but the narrow short deck is considerably cheaper in the longrun.
I did make it to the dyno this weekend.At 10 psi the truck made 140hp and 177tq with 87 octane.It hits full boost at 1800 rpm and needs 30 % throttle to open the waste gate.It costs 9 cents a mile to drive compared to the old setup at 24 cents a mile.Its the slowest turbo vehicle on the street but it is exactly what i wanted.I drive it every day now without fear of shattering a transmission or spinning out at 90mph.
I am getting old.....
ligo1 wrote:I put the stocker in some time ago,sorry.
I did make it to the dyno this weekend.At 10 psi the truck made 140hp and 177tq with 87 octane.It hits full boost at 1800 rpm and needs 30 % throttle to open the waste gate.It costs 9 cents a mile to drive compared to the old setup at 24 cents a mile.Its the slowest turbo vehicle on the street but it is exactly what i wanted.I drive it every day now without fear of shattering a transmission or spinning out at 90mph.
I am getting old.....
Yeah, what was that simulated quarter again? 15 some odd seconds?
Diesel exhaust stack was win, though you about killed the shop with the fumes.
ligo1 wrote:I still daily drive it.It is holding up fine.
It is slow,i have lost to every scion tc or honda s2000 i pulled up to.I miss having a big stick.
4" aluminum driveshafy is on the way.Tf-904 with 5500rpm stall and transbrake sitting in the truck.Fp 3575 hanging off the manifold.Exploder rear end is back in with cal-tracs this time
The t25 just wasn't cutting it and i like my van stock.
I have this too but i'll use the bolt on turbo so i can get some passes this season.
you got the right power plant.....try softening the final drive ratio a tad and it will be more daily driver friendly. you have plenty of power and the long stroke / power band range of the 2.4 is good for a softer rear axle gear.
honda-like high revving may seem cool and all the rage in the tuner crowd, but i like having lots of basement level torque and power at reasonable rpm levels where i can use it on a daily basis. that short stroke 2.0 makes for a pretty boat anchor! i would find the evo more appealing if it was a stroker 2.4 like they did on the neon when they made the srt-4. mitsubishi had the right idea taking the 4g engine to the "next level" for the pickups.
Can I ask ya where you picked up Caltracs at? I have some pretty serious wheel hop with the stock springs and an LSD. I hate the thought of something snapping so I tend to let off. If I could actually get on it without the axle tramp / wheelhop, I would be a happy camper
boise-nic wrote:Can I ask ya where you picked up Caltracs at? I have some pretty serious wheel hop with the stock springs and an LSD. I hate the thought of something snapping so I tend to let off. If I could actually get on it without the axle tramp / wheelhop, I would be a happy camper
I bought them used but i believe they are available directly from cal-trac.
