turbo install
Moderators: DJpowerHaus, mattmartindrift
turbo install
hello!
been here quite a while, but this is my first post.
i've seen some of you guys with FWD twin cam 4G63 turbo engines set up on RWD drivetrains.
regarding the turbo, i was wondering whether the install was as simple as rotating the turbo so that the turbo inlet faced the radiator and the hot side faced the firewall...
of course i have to re-plumb the coolant and oil lines of the turbo, and would have to have a custom-made exhaust manifold.
for any help or advice, thanks.
btw, the car is a dodge colt/colt galant 75...the current engine is a DOHC 4G63 NA with stock intake manifold, throttle body port relocated to face the radiator.
thanks again...
been here quite a while, but this is my first post.
i've seen some of you guys with FWD twin cam 4G63 turbo engines set up on RWD drivetrains.
regarding the turbo, i was wondering whether the install was as simple as rotating the turbo so that the turbo inlet faced the radiator and the hot side faced the firewall...
of course i have to re-plumb the coolant and oil lines of the turbo, and would have to have a custom-made exhaust manifold.
for any help or advice, thanks.
btw, the car is a dodge colt/colt galant 75...the current engine is a DOHC 4G63 NA with stock intake manifold, throttle body port relocated to face the radiator.
thanks again...
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DJpowerHaus
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You can use the stock turbo manifold without problems if you can figure out how to use the internal wastegate. No custom manifold needed, but hey, if you can make one cheap, give it a shot.
Turning the turbo is easy, its running all the IC pipes, oil feeds / drains, water feeds / drains, inake pipe, mounting the MAF that gets time consuming.
Turning the turbo is easy, its running all the IC pipes, oil feeds / drains, water feeds / drains, inake pipe, mounting the MAF that gets time consuming.

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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IDriftNaked
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IDriftNaked
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ok i just got done with the oil drain heres what i did
1st i chopped the dsm oil drain tube and got rid of the accordian piece all together.
for one side i just left an inch of a stub sticking out for the pan side

for the turbo side i used the bent side that was normally for the pan side on a dsm setup

since i was probably going to run into some kinks, i picked up these anti kink hose sleeves (5/8)

here it is all nice and connected, it looks like it will clear the down pipe pretty nicely, but i think i will throw some exhaust wrap on it just incase.

1st i chopped the dsm oil drain tube and got rid of the accordian piece all together.
for one side i just left an inch of a stub sticking out for the pan side

for the turbo side i used the bent side that was normally for the pan side on a dsm setup

since i was probably going to run into some kinks, i picked up these anti kink hose sleeves (5/8)

here it is all nice and connected, it looks like it will clear the down pipe pretty nicely, but i think i will throw some exhaust wrap on it just incase.

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IDriftNaked
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IDriftNaked
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ok now this is what i came up with for my water pipe and lines.
i decided to use the truck water pump and water pipe. so i cut the pipe right after the bracket just so it would be kept into place in the water pump
note: i am not using a heater core

this is what i'll be using to tee off the water pipe for my lines.

this is the dsm water line that used to connect to the dsm water pipe. what i did here is just hacked off the last bend and angled the line more towards the engine.

this is a 3/8 tube with a 90 degree bend that i will use to connect to one of the tee fittings from behind the block to go around and under the intake to the t.b. nipple

heres a quick mock-up to show how the lines are going to be ran. just fyi i do plan on wrapping some heat wrap on crucial areas.
the inside water line will point straight forward and connect to the water neck.

here it is, fitted

heres the inside line to the water neck fitted
note: i slightly angled the tip upward so the hose would have less of a chance of crimping

last but not least and unfinished the t.b. line. this is just to show how it will go around and under.
i do plan on circular loop for the tip on this line so it can reach the t.b. nipple as close as possible. to hold the pipe in place i will use insulated 3/8 wire holders alongside the block.

i think im going to call it a day for now, but i hope this has helped somewhat
i decided to use the truck water pump and water pipe. so i cut the pipe right after the bracket just so it would be kept into place in the water pump
note: i am not using a heater core

this is what i'll be using to tee off the water pipe for my lines.

this is the dsm water line that used to connect to the dsm water pipe. what i did here is just hacked off the last bend and angled the line more towards the engine.

this is a 3/8 tube with a 90 degree bend that i will use to connect to one of the tee fittings from behind the block to go around and under the intake to the t.b. nipple

heres a quick mock-up to show how the lines are going to be ran. just fyi i do plan on wrapping some heat wrap on crucial areas.
the inside water line will point straight forward and connect to the water neck.

here it is, fitted

heres the inside line to the water neck fitted
note: i slightly angled the tip upward so the hose would have less of a chance of crimping

last but not least and unfinished the t.b. line. this is just to show how it will go around and under.
i do plan on circular loop for the tip on this line so it can reach the t.b. nipple as close as possible. to hold the pipe in place i will use insulated 3/8 wire holders alongside the block.

i think im going to call it a day for now, but i hope this has helped somewhat
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IDriftNaked
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to be honest with you i didnt really need to clock the compressor housing at all, i was fortunate enough to barely clear anything but it cleared at a safe distance.
the only thing i ran into right after i posted the pics for you is the stock wastegate but i figured that out already i just carefully chisled the bracket right behind the actuator and it came completely off. no i was able to get any angle i wanted on the actuator and linkage.
as a matter of fact let me take some snap shots for you so you can see what i mean, although its not complete but atleast you can see where im going with this
the only thing i ran into right after i posted the pics for you is the stock wastegate but i figured that out already i just carefully chisled the bracket right behind the actuator and it came completely off. no i was able to get any angle i wanted on the actuator and linkage.
as a matter of fact let me take some snap shots for you so you can see what i mean, although its not complete but atleast you can see where im going with this
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IDriftNaked
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the outcome was that gap that you see right between the actuator and bracket but atleast i connected a to b. so what i have planned is to wedge in a melon slice shaped spacer and tack weld it in.

another benefit of chisling off the bracket is that you can clock it so the nipple can face any way that you want it to


another benefit of chisling off the bracket is that you can clock it so the nipple can face any way that you want it to

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Dropped_Mitsu
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DJpowerHaus
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I don't think they need to open all the way. As long as it can bleed off the back pressure, it should be work. Might boost creep. A test drive will be the only way to tell. Get that done and driving.

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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Dropped_Mitsu
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haha yea really.oldcolt75 wrote:does this mean your giving us all external waste gate for christmasperegrine wrote:lol just make an externally gated o2 housing and save yourselves all the troubles of internal gate shit.
I may just go with a externally gated o2 when the time comes to finnally put it in if I dont have this internal gate figured out by then.


