I got a complete 90 GST what do I need to use?
Moderators: DJpowerHaus, mattmartindrift
I got the whole car and it runs. What ,if you had to do this again, would you do with this? I dont mind any of the re wiring. Ive been reading the other post and will take a look at all the pin outs between the two once I get the cars side by side.
Steven
Steven
87 conquest TSI, G54B, Magna Intake, T3/T4 Turbo, SDS EM-3F, P&P head, etc...
That seems resonable, so I guess using the Eclipse Engine management is alot easier than going aftermarket.. Or should I say its easier on the wallet.
Next would be the fun part that you and Joe have already experienced, fabbing up the engine and tranny.
Not sure yet, hell I may just keep the GST and build it up. Its a hard decision since I dont like FWD that much.
Steven
Next would be the fun part that you and Joe have already experienced, fabbing up the engine and tranny.
Not sure yet, hell I may just keep the GST and build it up. Its a hard decision since I dont like FWD that much.
Steven
87 conquest TSI, G54B, Magna Intake, T3/T4 Turbo, SDS EM-3F, P&P head, etc...
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DJpowerHaus
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Yeah... like 89 said.. you've got to pull the starion motor harness, ecu and main relay and replace it with the DSM engine harness, ecu and relay. To wire it up, cut the B38 (I think) plug off of the starion harness and use the instructiosn on the site to wire it to the DSM engine harness. Then you just plug it in and you're ready to go. You keep all the cool features of the DSM main relay, like shutting down the ECU after 7 seconds, shutting off the fuel pump if the motor stops running.. all that cool stuff. You only need to make an extension section for the stuff on the throttle body. I making a separate extensio section that you can run through the intake manifold so you dont have to root it out every time you have to either remove the motor or TB. You can then take the harness through the AC box hole in the firewall and if you strip out the crap from the other branch you have just enough length to run the MAS wires through the hole that the stock starion harness ran. Wrap the harness above the exhaust with heat wrap and you're ready to go.

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Thanks DJ sounds good to me. I just need to work out the tranny thing, and motor mounts. I can handle the electrical part with a little help. Is this the way you went with your swap? It just sounds easier than going with an aftermarket unit.
Steven
Steven
87 conquest TSI, G54B, Magna Intake, T3/T4 Turbo, SDS EM-3F, P&P head, etc...
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DJpowerHaus
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you mean aftermarket ECU? It's cheaper to get you on the road. Some people argue the points of the stock ECU with some sort of modifier (DSMLink) piggy backed on. They say its more reliable and all that stuff, but I dont know. I'm a fan of standalone stuff in teh long run. No MAS, better capability to control BIG injectors, less reliance on sometimes hard to find Japanese sensors (GM Baby!).
But yeah.. this is the way I did it. I'm still running the stock ECU and harness.
But yeah.. this is the way I did it. I'm still running the stock ECU and harness.

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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DJpowerHaus
- Sir Post A Lot
- Posts: 1779
- Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2004 3:24 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD
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<!--QuoteBegin-89onaquest+Oct 22 2004, 01:23 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (89onaquest @ Oct 22 2004, 01:23 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> Any way, what Joe and myself were going to do is splice into the quest's main fusible link box, solder in the main power feed to the DSM ECU there, leaving the relay/fuse in between. [/quote]
Your crazy... B38, nigga
Your crazy... B38, nigga

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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DJpowerHaus
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- Posts: 1779
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- Location: Baltimore, MD
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B38 is THE plug that the stock starion ECU used. It has all of the same protective fuses and relays. This way you can troubleshoot it using the same methods you use to trouble shoot a regular starion... so if you sell the car or die and somebody inherits it, they wont have to reverse engineer everything. They just need to check the stock fusible links or the stock fuse box (which is pretty cool BTW).

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
-
DJpowerHaus
- Sir Post A Lot
- Posts: 1779
- Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2004 3:24 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD
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