hey guys, just wonderring which one of the two oil pumps i should use if im doing the 2.1 setup? im about to go to the junkyard to try and find some good candidates and i dont know if i keep the oil pump from the 4g64 or if i grab the oil pump from the 4g63
o yea and i was readig about the timing covers being different, which ones do i need?
heres what im dealing with
4g64 block and pistons w/ connecting rods
4g63 head and crank
sorry for such a blunt topic guys, im just really new to this thing
what oil pump do i use? timing cover question also (2.1)
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IDriftNaked
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Re: what oil pump do i use? timing cover question also (2.1)
all your timing stuff is 4g63 except the belt and the sprockets. oil pump is 4g63 as well.IDriftNaked wrote:hey guys, just wonderring which one of the two oil pumps i should use if im doing the 2.1 setup? im about to go to the junkyard to try and find some good candidates and i dont know if i keep the oil pump from the 4g64 or if i grab the oil pump from the 4g63
o yea and i was readig about the timing covers being different, which ones do i need?
heres what im dealing with
4g64 block and pistons w/ connecting rods
4g63 head and crank
sorry for such a blunt topic guys, im just really new to this thing
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DJpowerHaus
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Re: what oil pump do i use? timing cover question also (2.1)
If you're using 4G64 pistons with 4G63/4 rods (they're the same) the block/crank combo you're intending to use will not work. What you've described is NOT a 2.1L. A 2.1L uses 87mm stroker pistons and longer (162mm) aftermarket rods. A 2.0L crank will not work in a 4G64 without this piston/rod combo. The added cost of the aftermarket rods and pistons is a few hundred dollars higher than the regular 4G63/4 pistons and rods. If you're trying to save money, you should stick with a 2.0L or 2.4L.IDriftNaked wrote: heres what im dealing with
4g64 block and pistons w/ connecting rods
4g63 head and crank
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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IDriftNaked
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ok so i just got back home and i found a perfect candidate, it was off of a 90 tsi, and dj you where right about the oil cooler lines for that year. the only thing i didnt like was the cyl head on it, it looked tampered with and it was missing most of the cam hold downs, so i yanked off a cyl head from another 90 only non turbo DOHC everything looked clean as hell, im still going to take it to a machine shop to get checked anyway just incase.
so dj thanks for informing me about the mistake that i was going to commit, just goes to show how much of a rookie i am at this.
so if i decide to swap the DOHC head to a 4g64 wb, will the 4g64 internals handle boost (in the 18psi range)?
and if i decide to keep the 4g63 narrow block, and i ask this because i really am new to this, but are there any adapters to fit a narrow block to starion wide trannies? or is there no way for getting around swapping trannies for going this route (my tranny is nice and crisp with only 10k miles on it)
so dj thanks for informing me about the mistake that i was going to commit, just goes to show how much of a rookie i am at this.
so if i decide to swap the DOHC head to a 4g64 wb, will the 4g64 internals handle boost (in the 18psi range)?
and if i decide to keep the 4g63 narrow block, and i ask this because i really am new to this, but are there any adapters to fit a narrow block to starion wide trannies? or is there no way for getting around swapping trannies for going this route (my tranny is nice and crisp with only 10k miles on it)
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DJpowerHaus
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You would need to swap the transmission if you want to go narrowblock. The only alternative is to cut and weld on the bellhousing from a D50 transmission, but I wouldn't do that if I were you.
The 4G64 rods and pistons can handle 18psi, but the pistons will not. You'll need some Wiseco pistons for anything over 5psi.
The 4G64 rods and pistons can handle 18psi, but the pistons will not. You'll need some Wiseco pistons for anything over 5psi.
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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jeffball610
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Since the rods are the same (hopefully you have a 6-bolt) all you will need are pistons to reach 500hp. the 6-bolt rods are pretty stout and you should have no problem putting some good boost to them. If your bock is in good shape (maybe just needing a honing) then you can just go with the block as is with new pistons.
Some might disagree with me, but these blocks are pretty tough and a good unmolested block can survive for a long time. I had a 91 6-bolt with 297,000 miles that still had honing marks on it. The owner swapped it out since it had "low compression." The low compression came from carbon buildup on the valves.
The oil pump (or front case) is the same on every 4G motor to my knowledge. Obviously the 1.6L 4G61 came without balance shafts, but the rest is the same. If you intend to keep your Starion tranny, stick with the wide block 4G64 2.4L build. It will save you money and make plenty of power. The only downside is that you will not be able to rev the motor as high on stock internals. That reminds me, use ARP rod bolts with the 1G rods and aftermarket pistons to attain the 500hp mark. Since you will be saving money on the block and tranny combo, you might as well put some money into that new head of yours. Some higher rate valve springs and titanium retainers will help you rev higher and will be a good investment.
And DJ, about that 5psi on stock 2.4L internals. I've seen a stock 2.4L w/4G63 head run well with over 15psi of boost. Of course it was at mile high altitude, but it can be done with a good tune.
Some might disagree with me, but these blocks are pretty tough and a good unmolested block can survive for a long time. I had a 91 6-bolt with 297,000 miles that still had honing marks on it. The owner swapped it out since it had "low compression." The low compression came from carbon buildup on the valves.
The oil pump (or front case) is the same on every 4G motor to my knowledge. Obviously the 1.6L 4G61 came without balance shafts, but the rest is the same. If you intend to keep your Starion tranny, stick with the wide block 4G64 2.4L build. It will save you money and make plenty of power. The only downside is that you will not be able to rev the motor as high on stock internals. That reminds me, use ARP rod bolts with the 1G rods and aftermarket pistons to attain the 500hp mark. Since you will be saving money on the block and tranny combo, you might as well put some money into that new head of yours. Some higher rate valve springs and titanium retainers will help you rev higher and will be a good investment.
And DJ, about that 5psi on stock 2.4L internals. I've seen a stock 2.4L w/4G63 head run well with over 15psi of boost. Of course it was at mile high altitude, but it can be done with a good tune.
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IDriftNaked
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