I have the adapter all designed to put a GM trans on a 4g63! I will post a jpg of the part later today. We are waiting to get a prototype done and test fit to make sure everything is lined up properly, then we will begin selling if there is any interest still in this. Anyways, I will post a pic up later.
Thanks,
Nate
www.dmotorsporte.com
GM trans adapter almost done!
Moderators: DJpowerHaus, mattmartindrift
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DJpowerHaus
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So you'll probably get the tranny bolted to the block. Awesome. Now get all the starter/flywheel/clutch/input shaft/pilot bearing,/thorw out bearing stuff to work. Or Auto (which I think you are doing) stuff to work. Could you please explain the components between the input shaft and the block that are involved with an auto tranny? I really have no clue what's in there.. other than its called a torque converter and its filled with juice. Grape I think.
I hope I dont sound dumb there. I want to see this turn out. Just spread the info here.
I hope I dont sound dumb there. I want to see this turn out. Just spread the info here.
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
<!--QuoteBegin-DJpowerHaus+Feb 1 2005, 03:51 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (DJpowerHaus @ Feb 1 2005, 03:51 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> So you'll probably get the tranny bolted to the block. Awesome. Now get all the starter/flywheel/clutch/input shaft/pilot bearing,/thorw out bearing stuff to work. Or Auto (which I think you are doing) stuff to work. Could you please explain the components between the input shaft and the block that are involved with an auto tranny? I really have no clue what's in there.. other than its called a torque converter and its filled with juice. Grape I think.
I hope I dont sound dumb there. I want to see this turn out. Just spread the info here. [/quote]
I have everything else all figured out as well, settle down my friend
I am just doing an auto right now, maybe try a manual in the future. With an auto, there is just a torque converter, which is just a hydraulic slipping device, just do a search online. Anyways, they usually just bolt to the flex plate, which is a very thin plate, just thick enough to have the starter ring gear on it. Sinc we are using a spacer, the adapter plate, and the torque converter sits in the transmission some, I am going to use a stock dsm flywheel from a manual transmission. I haven't fully check if it will need to be machined down a little bit, or extended slightly. But, either way is pretty simple. If it needs to be machined, well then it just gets machined down to the proper thickness and the holes for the torque converter get drilled and tapped in it. If it needs to be extended slightly, then I will need to make a simple adapter ring that bolts right up to the flywheel, extends the proper distance, and then has the gm bolt pattern on it as well. As for the starter, it just bolts right onto/through the adapter plate just as it does on a stock dsm transmission. Because I am using a stock flywheel, nothing needs to be done differently with the starter.
As for pictures, I thought I could just attach a picture on here, but I then figured out that I couldn't :blink: So, give me a day or two to get one put up on our website, or if you are really interested to see the design, just email me.
Hope this helps clear up any questions you had about the setup. Let me know if there is anything else I can try and explain.
Thank you,
Nate
email: nate@dmotorsporte.com
I hope I dont sound dumb there. I want to see this turn out. Just spread the info here. [/quote]
I have everything else all figured out as well, settle down my friend
I am just doing an auto right now, maybe try a manual in the future. With an auto, there is just a torque converter, which is just a hydraulic slipping device, just do a search online. Anyways, they usually just bolt to the flex plate, which is a very thin plate, just thick enough to have the starter ring gear on it. Sinc we are using a spacer, the adapter plate, and the torque converter sits in the transmission some, I am going to use a stock dsm flywheel from a manual transmission. I haven't fully check if it will need to be machined down a little bit, or extended slightly. But, either way is pretty simple. If it needs to be machined, well then it just gets machined down to the proper thickness and the holes for the torque converter get drilled and tapped in it. If it needs to be extended slightly, then I will need to make a simple adapter ring that bolts right up to the flywheel, extends the proper distance, and then has the gm bolt pattern on it as well. As for the starter, it just bolts right onto/through the adapter plate just as it does on a stock dsm transmission. Because I am using a stock flywheel, nothing needs to be done differently with the starter.As for pictures, I thought I could just attach a picture on here, but I then figured out that I couldn't :blink: So, give me a day or two to get one put up on our website, or if you are really interested to see the design, just email me.
Hope this helps clear up any questions you had about the setup. Let me know if there is anything else I can try and explain.
Thank you,
Nate
email: nate@dmotorsporte.com
10.80@133 1991 Talon---Sold!<br>Time for new toy...AE86 with 4g63 and powerglide?<br>Sounds good to me.
If you are using a flywheel and not a flexplate, you have two options. You can extend the flywheel out by keeping the auto spacer in the center of the crank, but you will need to find longer bolts- longer then the manual transmission bolts. The manual bolts will thread in, but only a couple threads and then strip out. If you need to conserve space, remove the auto spacer in the center of the crank and use the manual bolts. But you must also use a manual dust cover, the auto cover is about as twice as thick and will not allow the manual flywheel to rotate once torqued.
<!--QuoteBegin-Mike+Feb 1 2005, 04:43 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Mike @ Feb 1 2005, 04:43 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> If you are using a flywheel and not a flexplate, you have two options. You can extend the flywheel out by keeping the auto spacer in the center of the crank, but you will need to find longer bolts- longer then the manual transmission bolts. The manual bolts will thread in, but only a couple threads and then strip out. If you need to conserve space, remove the auto spacer in the center of the crank and use the manual bolts. But you must also use a manual dust cover, the auto cover is about as twice as thick and will not allow the manual flywheel to rotate once torqued. [/quote]
Can you explain more why I would only have 2 options?
I am going to bolt up a manual flywheel just like I were going to bolt on a manual transmission. I have dimensioned it for using an AWD flywheel and engine plate(dust cover you are referring to?). Since I am doing this, the starter will work with no extra mounting modifications and such.
I guess I am not quite understanding why you think there are only 2 options.
Nate
Can you explain more why I would only have 2 options?
I am going to bolt up a manual flywheel just like I were going to bolt on a manual transmission. I have dimensioned it for using an AWD flywheel and engine plate(dust cover you are referring to?). Since I am doing this, the starter will work with no extra mounting modifications and such.
I guess I am not quite understanding why you think there are only 2 options.
Nate
10.80@133 1991 Talon---Sold!<br>Time for new toy...AE86 with 4g63 and powerglide?<br>Sounds good to me.
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David Buschur
- Knowlege Seeker
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- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 2:26 pm
We have these and have had them instock at our shop since 1997. Any of you looking for parts for doing these conversions we have it all.
1/2" aluminum adapter plates, perfect in every way, will work with any GM bellhousing that normally bolts to big or small blocks.
Flexplates for use with auto transmision.
Torque converters, we have the stall speeds worked out, just tell us what you want.
Billet aluminum thermostat housings
RWD sheetmetal intake manifolds
Griffin radiators for the Conquest.
Motor mounts for the block and chassis.
Etc. etc. etc.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
1/2" aluminum adapter plates, perfect in every way, will work with any GM bellhousing that normally bolts to big or small blocks.
Flexplates for use with auto transmision.
Torque converters, we have the stall speeds worked out, just tell us what you want.
Billet aluminum thermostat housings
RWD sheetmetal intake manifolds
Griffin radiators for the Conquest.
Motor mounts for the block and chassis.
Etc. etc. etc.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
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DJpowerHaus
- Sir Post A Lot
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- Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2004 3:24 pm
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Cool your jets, cowboy. He can do what he wants. Looks like its on topic to me. It stays. He does sell this stuff. There are people with real jobs and $$ to spend on it to. Maybe they'd be flying off the shelf if the price were lower though (Im in accounting <span style='font-size:21pt;line-height:100%'>II</span>, baby!) Options are options. Dont limit other people's options because you're too poor to afford it.
Imagine.. buying all the parts because you can, bolting it all up in a weekend and being on the road in a week. I WISH I could have done that... then again I dont really want an Auto for drift stuff. Dave! How about some manual transmission stuff? I'll test it for free.
Imagine.. buying all the parts because you can, bolting it all up in a weekend and being on the road in a week. I WISH I could have done that... then again I dont really want an Auto for drift stuff. Dave! How about some manual transmission stuff? I'll test it for free.
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
<!--QuoteBegin-91nbtsi+Feb 1 2005, 06:24 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (91nbtsi @ Feb 1 2005, 06:24 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> <!--QuoteBegin-Mike+Feb 1 2005, 04:43 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Mike @ Feb 1 2005, 04:43 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> If you are using a flywheel and not a flexplate, you have two options. You can extend the flywheel out by keeping the auto spacer in the center of the crank, but you will need to find longer bolts- longer then the manual transmission bolts. The manual bolts will thread in, but only a couple threads and then strip out. If you need to conserve space, remove the auto spacer in the center of the crank and use the manual bolts. But you must also use a manual dust cover, the auto cover is about as twice as thick and will not allow the manual flywheel to rotate once torqued. [/quote]
Can you explain more why I would only have 2 options?
I am going to bolt up a manual flywheel just like I were going to bolt on a manual transmission. I have dimensioned it for using an AWD flywheel and engine plate(dust cover you are referring to?). Since I am doing this, the starter will work with no extra mounting modifications and such.
I guess I am not quite understanding why you think there are only 2 options.
Nate [/quote]
I didn't literally mean you only have two options, but that these are two options which already exist for you. Theoretically, if you need to extend the flywheel out, you could make a spacer however long you want, and you could also make the flywheel just about as thin as you want.
Can you explain more why I would only have 2 options?
I am going to bolt up a manual flywheel just like I were going to bolt on a manual transmission. I have dimensioned it for using an AWD flywheel and engine plate(dust cover you are referring to?). Since I am doing this, the starter will work with no extra mounting modifications and such.
I guess I am not quite understanding why you think there are only 2 options.
Nate [/quote]
I didn't literally mean you only have two options, but that these are two options which already exist for you. Theoretically, if you need to extend the flywheel out, you could make a spacer however long you want, and you could also make the flywheel just about as thin as you want.
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DJpowerHaus
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You'd really need to find a bolt pattern that was bigger then DSM bolt pattern. so you dont have overlapping holes. You could use pins to keep everything lined up. The real challenge is to keep everything on center and to keep it balanced. That shouldnt be too hard if you take it to any machine shop. Most want your pulley, crank, flywheel anyways.
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
<!--QuoteBegin-89onaquest+Feb 2 2005, 07:42 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (89onaquest @ Feb 2 2005, 07:42 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> actually I think the easiest thing to do with the converter is...
Measure how far it sits in the GM trans. Then measure the various DSM flywheel thicknesses...
You would also need to have the Converter bolt diameter, because with any luck it might be right on, on the thickest portion of the flywheels. Then machine drill/tap and worry about the plate to mount the trans... [/quote]
You pretty much described what I had said earlier in this topic. Anyways, it really shouldn't matter if the diameter is the same or not. It would make it much easier if it were the same as the outer raised portion of the flywheel. Though, there is plenty of material to drill/tap the gm bolt pattern there without overlapping holes. FYI the torque converter only has 3 bolt tabs for mounting.
One more thing I forgot to mention, as DJpowerHaus said, it needs to be kept centered. I have some plans for this, but first I need to measure the distances of the torque converter and find out whether the flywheel needs to be machined or extended.
As for Buschur, that is fine that he posts his ad. I am curious as to what his prices are for all of these parts? I know I tried emailing Buschur Racing months ago about this exact thing asking what the prices were on everything, and what all parts comes with it and so on, only to get this as a response: $500, or something around that. I suppose I was just supposed to guess what that was for, I am assuming it just for the plate, nothing more. So, Dave, since you just joined here to make your post about how you make all this stuff, which everyone already knew, why don't you tell us what your pricing is on these pieces so that maybe someone will be more interested to buy from you. In case you were thinking I was making this plate to copy or compete with you, don't worry, I wasn't. Me and a friend of mine are both going to be doing RWD 4g63's, so we need adapters.
So, in the mean time, I am going to keep chugging on this adapter, Dave, let us know your pricing and more information, and everyone else post any thoughts or questions you have.
Thanks,
Nate
Measure how far it sits in the GM trans. Then measure the various DSM flywheel thicknesses...
You would also need to have the Converter bolt diameter, because with any luck it might be right on, on the thickest portion of the flywheels. Then machine drill/tap and worry about the plate to mount the trans... [/quote]
You pretty much described what I had said earlier in this topic. Anyways, it really shouldn't matter if the diameter is the same or not. It would make it much easier if it were the same as the outer raised portion of the flywheel. Though, there is plenty of material to drill/tap the gm bolt pattern there without overlapping holes. FYI the torque converter only has 3 bolt tabs for mounting.
One more thing I forgot to mention, as DJpowerHaus said, it needs to be kept centered. I have some plans for this, but first I need to measure the distances of the torque converter and find out whether the flywheel needs to be machined or extended.
As for Buschur, that is fine that he posts his ad. I am curious as to what his prices are for all of these parts? I know I tried emailing Buschur Racing months ago about this exact thing asking what the prices were on everything, and what all parts comes with it and so on, only to get this as a response: $500, or something around that. I suppose I was just supposed to guess what that was for, I am assuming it just for the plate, nothing more. So, Dave, since you just joined here to make your post about how you make all this stuff, which everyone already knew, why don't you tell us what your pricing is on these pieces so that maybe someone will be more interested to buy from you. In case you were thinking I was making this plate to copy or compete with you, don't worry, I wasn't. Me and a friend of mine are both going to be doing RWD 4g63's, so we need adapters.
So, in the mean time, I am going to keep chugging on this adapter, Dave, let us know your pricing and more information, and everyone else post any thoughts or questions you have.
Thanks,
Nate
10.80@133 1991 Talon---Sold!<br>Time for new toy...AE86 with 4g63 and powerglide?<br>Sounds good to me.
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David Buschur
- Knowlege Seeker
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- Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 2:26 pm
89onaquest,
I am sure I have nothing to offer to you. I am glad I have calmed down in my old age too. As a side note we don't bother hacking up a stock intake and reversing it. We build a special sheetmetal intake for the swaps that clear the brake boosters and other parts. Its a piece of crap though, you wouldn't want it.
As for prices, I posted them over in the other topic on here after being called a dick there too.
It's cool. I wish somedays I could turn back the hands of time and see where the old 4g63 stuff would be.
David Buschur
"worthless parts pushing prick"
www.buschurracing.com
I am sure I have nothing to offer to you. I am glad I have calmed down in my old age too. As a side note we don't bother hacking up a stock intake and reversing it. We build a special sheetmetal intake for the swaps that clear the brake boosters and other parts. Its a piece of crap though, you wouldn't want it.
As for prices, I posted them over in the other topic on here after being called a dick there too.
It's cool. I wish somedays I could turn back the hands of time and see where the old 4g63 stuff would be.
David Buschur
"worthless parts pushing prick"
www.buschurracing.com
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DJpowerHaus
- Sir Post A Lot
- Posts: 1779
- Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2004 3:24 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD
- Contact:
Do we have a language filter? What's with all that fancy typing. Tell us how you really feel. Does it have something to do with your mother?
Calm down already.
Calm down already.
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Welcome all.
Although I'm new here, I'm certainly not new to DSM engines or doing DSM swaps.
I find it unfortunate that there are individuals who feel it's their "duty" to talk harshly to people who actually helped carve a path that in one way or another,
many of us have traveled in oder to make our cars fast.
All Dave did was offer an alternative to making the 4G63/4 setup work
in a StarQuest.
I've known Dave for quite some time. Believe me B) , Dave doesn't have any cut cards when it comes to saying what's on his mind. I'm suprised he didn't have more to say, but then again..... None of us are 20 something anymore.
If you think his prices are expensive, don't buy his products. If you don't like him....feel free not to respond to him. But remember this, there ARE some of us who can afford his products and would like to hear what he has to say.
BUT..... There are some of us out here who want 5 spd. Drag racing is not the only venue we want to take a StarQuest to
Now if you had have put some thought into what he was saying to us... being the tuner or fabricator that we all want to be, you can fill in the blanks....
KNOWING that the 5 spd DSM tranny is weak, what makes ANYONE think the D50
or even the Starquest tranny can handle the power of a 4G63 or the BRUTAL torque/and horspower of the 4G64....
Eric Plebani was on here a while back and gave you some good info
Use the Buschur adaptor engine to tranny plate
USE the powerglide bellhousing. Connect this unit
to a TREMEC or a WC-T56 unit.
Make sure you have the right gearing, and you've essentially cured the Torque/HP issues that plaque this swap .
Good luck
Geoff
92 GVR4 253/1000
2.0 Turbo Colt
2.3 lyr AWD Turbo Colt
Although I'm new here, I'm certainly not new to DSM engines or doing DSM swaps.
I find it unfortunate that there are individuals who feel it's their "duty" to talk harshly to people who actually helped carve a path that in one way or another,
many of us have traveled in oder to make our cars fast.
All Dave did was offer an alternative to making the 4G63/4 setup work
in a StarQuest.
I've known Dave for quite some time. Believe me B) , Dave doesn't have any cut cards when it comes to saying what's on his mind. I'm suprised he didn't have more to say, but then again..... None of us are 20 something anymore.
If you think his prices are expensive, don't buy his products. If you don't like him....feel free not to respond to him. But remember this, there ARE some of us who can afford his products and would like to hear what he has to say.
BUT..... There are some of us out here who want 5 spd. Drag racing is not the only venue we want to take a StarQuest to
Now if you had have put some thought into what he was saying to us... being the tuner or fabricator that we all want to be, you can fill in the blanks....
KNOWING that the 5 spd DSM tranny is weak, what makes ANYONE think the D50
or even the Starquest tranny can handle the power of a 4G63 or the BRUTAL torque/and horspower of the 4G64....
Eric Plebani was on here a while back and gave you some good info
Use the Buschur adaptor engine to tranny plate
USE the powerglide bellhousing. Connect this unit
to a TREMEC or a WC-T56 unit.
Make sure you have the right gearing, and you've essentially cured the Torque/HP issues that plaque this swap .
Good luck
Geoff
92 GVR4 253/1000
2.0 Turbo Colt
2.3 lyr AWD Turbo Colt
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DJpowerHaus
- Sir Post A Lot
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Welcome to the site. Where was Eric posting? I missed that completely.
How would one go about getting the flywheel, clutch, input shaft stuff to work with the TREMEC or T56?
What venues are you looking into participating in if you do the swap. I'm interested everyone's cool projects.
How would one go about getting the flywheel, clutch, input shaft stuff to work with the TREMEC or T56?
What venues are you looking into participating in if you do the swap. I'm interested everyone's cool projects.
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
<!--QuoteBegin-machvr4+Mar 11 2005, 12:03 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (machvr4 @ Mar 11 2005, 12:03 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> I actually printed it out MONTHS AGO.
When I get home tonite. I'll look for it so that I can provide you guys with that info. [/quote]
Hey DJ, sorry for not posting in a while. Been busy on other projects.
Actually Eric's 5 spd Ford tranny info was on another site altogether.
Underdog has since posted pics of his 5spd swap.
When I get home tonite. I'll look for it so that I can provide you guys with that info. [/quote]
Hey DJ, sorry for not posting in a while. Been busy on other projects.
Actually Eric's 5 spd Ford tranny info was on another site altogether.
Underdog has since posted pics of his 5spd swap.
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DJpowerHaus
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