so i found this guy with a 4g63 long block with out the manifolds. he claims its a turbo, but without the stuff bolted onto it i really have no idea.
is there a way to tell if it is a t or na?
i kinda searched and only came up with the wiring harness being different and the knock sensor stuff, but they prolly wont be with the engine.
take the chance?
how to tell im not getting screwed
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idreamidrive
- Knowlege Seeker
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The knock sensor might not be on the engine, but you should be able to tell if that hole spent its life in was exposed to the elements (the thread should pretty fresh, if it was just removed). Then, check for oil cooler and for turbo oil supply line from the head.
If someone really knows what they are doing, they can make NT motor look like a turbo. Ultimately the only sure way to know for sure is to take off the head look at the "dish" in the pistons or if you drop the pan (VERY GOOD IDEA!!!) you can check for presence of oil jets.
A more serious risk, when buying a motor from someone you do not know, is to end up with a bad motor (like spun bearings…).
If someone really knows what they are doing, they can make NT motor look like a turbo. Ultimately the only sure way to know for sure is to take off the head look at the "dish" in the pistons or if you drop the pan (VERY GOOD IDEA!!!) you can check for presence of oil jets.
A more serious risk, when buying a motor from someone you do not know, is to end up with a bad motor (like spun bearings…).
Leon Reitman
'96 Spyder GST
'93 Summit Wagon AWD (4G63 swap)
'80 Triumph TR7 Spyder GST (4G63 swap)
'96 Spyder GST
'93 Summit Wagon AWD (4G63 swap)
'80 Triumph TR7 Spyder GST (4G63 swap)
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jeffball610
- Too Much Time on His Hands
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- Location: Las Vegas, NV
GRNDSM is right about bad engines. Why is this person selling the motor and is he trustworthy? If everything checks out there, you can easily tell a 1G turbo motor by the water pipe on the front of the motor. This is not a cheap way to pass off an NA motor for a turbo. The front water pipe (connected to the water pump) will have a threaded hole for the coolant to go to the turbo. The presence of a water cooled oil filter housing is another way to check and is also not cheap to pass an engine off. The oil pan will also have the oil drain fitting for the turbo.
Ultimately you should inspect the motor to check for damage. Typically poor maintained motors will have scoring of the cylinders. It's not too hard to pull the head and check this. Also, pulling the pan to check for spun bearings is a good idea. All of this depends on how cheap you're getting the motor as well. I typically buy/sell short blocks for $100 or so and heads are about the same. If you plan to rebuild the motor anyway, you can live with some damage. The real thing I look for when buying parts is who I'm buying from. And do I trust them enough with my money to take a chance?
Ultimately you should inspect the motor to check for damage. Typically poor maintained motors will have scoring of the cylinders. It's not too hard to pull the head and check this. Also, pulling the pan to check for spun bearings is a good idea. All of this depends on how cheap you're getting the motor as well. I typically buy/sell short blocks for $100 or so and heads are about the same. If you plan to rebuild the motor anyway, you can live with some damage. The real thing I look for when buying parts is who I'm buying from. And do I trust them enough with my money to take a chance?
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idreamidrive
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