4g63 in a 924- bellhousing options to keep the rwd transaxle

blk98tsi · Post by **blk98tsi** » Sun May 13, 2007 10:19 pm

I might be getting a 1982 to swap a 4g63T into, and I was looking for options to keep the stock rear transaxle. They have a setup similar to the new vettes, with the clutch/bellhousing at the back of the engine, and a torque tube that carries power to the rear transaxle. naturally, I see a bunch of gm tranny swap going on, so would the vette set-up be an option? Or what else is there?

thanks.

(NA)turalyRWD · Post by **(NA)turalyRWD** » Mon May 14, 2007 3:21 pm

My understanding of the rear transaxle setup is that the crank is coupled to a "live shaft" that transmits power to the rear end where the flywheel,clutch and trans are located. This, to me means that with some fab it should be relativley easy. Most likely easier than a bellhousing swap like most do.

Garrett

blk98tsi · Post by **blk98tsi** » Mon May 14, 2007 8:05 pm

(NA)turalyRWD wrote:My understanding of the rear transaxle setup is that the crank is coupled to a "live shaft" that transmits power to the rear end where the flywheel,clutch and trans are located. This, to me means that with some fab it should be relativley easy. Most likely easier than a bellhousing swap like most do.

Garrett

Per this guide, the clutch on the 924 is under a small bellhousing at the front and connects to the rear transaxle through a driveshaft they call a torque tube.
http://www.924.org/techsection/ClutchReplacement.htm
It might be different with the vette, I am not sure, but judging from the pics I have seen, it is probably the same setup
http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/ ... al.500.jpg

(NA)turalyRWD · Post by **(NA)turalyRWD** » Mon May 14, 2007 10:07 pm

Alright i was unsure what side the flywheel and clutch were on but its pretty much the same deal either way. just have to clearance whatever areas need to be.

Garrett

blk98tsi · Post by **blk98tsi** » Tue May 15, 2007 4:54 pm

I'm still a noob, so it may or may not work, but here is what I was thinking at this time- line the 2 bellhousings together, cut the back off the 924 one with the part that the torque tube bolts to, and then cut the back off a 4g63 bellhousing and weld or bolt or jb-weld the back from the 924 bellhousing to the 4g63 bellhousing. Should work, no, as long as both trannys use a 23 tooth "input" shaft, no?

blk98tsi · Post by **blk98tsi** » Tue May 15, 2007 5:26 pm

or, even easier, this site says I can just drill a chevy bell housing plate to bolt the torque tube thing to it. I assume I can do the same for a 4g63 bellhousing?
http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-the-Pors ... t-V8-Power

To adapt this engine to the torque tube, you will need a special bellhousing that bolts to the V8 block, houses the clutch components, and then to torque tube. A simple stock Chevy bellhousing and plate can be manufactured with holes drilled to match the torque tube to accomplish this task.

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Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Tue May 15, 2007 5:41 pm

blk98tsi wrote:weld or bolt or jb-weld the back from the 924 bellhousing to the 4g63 bellhousing.

Did you seriously just say that?

blk98tsi · Post by **blk98tsi** » Tue May 15, 2007 7:12 pm

DJpowerHaus wrote:
blk98tsi wrote:weld or bolt or jb-weld the back from the 924 bellhousing to the 4g63 bellhousing.
Did you seriously just say that?

The jb-weld was a joke of course, and come to think of it, I doubt I would know anyone with the skill to weld a bellhousing to that extent, so I guess it would be see if there is a bellhousing I can drill and tap the correct holes and bolt it to....?

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Tue May 15, 2007 9:00 pm

if it has a 4G63 engine in it, I can build the bellhousing, its not a problem
I built 5 generic bellhousings with an open back that can have any transmission bolt to it as long as the input shaft is longer than 7 inches

just to give you an idea of what it takes to develop one bellhousing out of two cut pieces, you would have to center the input shaft to the pilot bearing that has to be built , then have the proper disc with the proper spline to the input shaft. after you get these two housings centered, you have to have the right depth for the input shaft so the trans is spaced the correct distance from the flywheel. then you must mount your starter in the right location, not too tight and not too loose or the flywheel will be damaged. find a throw out bearing that has the right center hole to match the collar over the input shaft and then mount a pivot ball at the right location to release the pressure plate, and while you are at it , make sure the wall thickness of the housing is the same from front to back so you maintain strength, because the original housing was never intended to support the weight of the engine with the motor mounts spread so far apart
its an intresting project though, I would be happy to get involved,I have offered to help other guys build a bellhousing for the t-5 series but they never reply

77amc · Post by **77amc** » Sat Jun 06, 2009 9:30 am

Hey Bill, What about using one of your 'open back' bellhousings so someone could cut off the front part of the wideblock D50/etc.. rwd trans and weld up yours to the narrow engine?

I can't recall the site, but there was a company doing this for use of a GM auto to non-GM engines. They even supplied directions on where to cut.

E

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Sat Jun 06, 2009 7:40 pm

there is just too much to go wrong Errol, you got to have a decent jig to hold everything in place before you do the welding

its gotta be straight and flat on both sides and centered and then you gotta figure out the throw out bearing set up

coltboostin · Post by **coltboostin** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 12:27 am

As mentioned-its called a torque tube. They are also called torque tubes on Vetts.

77amc · Post by **77amc** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 7:43 am

I'll have to do some lookin.. It was a whole (AUTO) bellhousing that one could weld to your specific trans body. If I can remember right, It even came with the flange for the front pump mounting.
I think it's in Jegs.
E I found it

http://www.jegs.com/p/J-W-Performance/J ... 7/10002/-1

77amc · Post by **77amc** » Thu Jun 11, 2009 9:13 am

OK Bill, hows this Idear.. An inch or more thick plate mounted to the back of the 4gxx, and a adapter 1/2-3/4+" similar to your GM crank flange adapter to said crank, going thru the plate with a yoke bolted to that..??

I'm not sure of the Porsche set up going thru the tunnel OR how they have it all matched up either. So it's just a idea.

OR a yoke and plate mounted to the rear of your bellhousing.. Again, I don't know how much room is needed between the engine and firewall.

E

Djchunter · Post by **Djchunter** » Sun Jun 14, 2009 1:33 am

Bill Hincher wrote:I have offered to help other guys build a bellhousing for the t-5 series but they never reply

Bill Thats easier like I covered in another post.. You need one of your chevy plates and a Lakewood bell housing part Number 15032. Its chevy pattern to ford T5

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Sun Jun 14, 2009 10:41 am

the chevy plate was never intended or designed for manual trans use and I do not believe its a good idea Dave
Its a disaster waiting to happen

Djchunter · Post by **Djchunter** » Sun Jun 14, 2009 5:58 pm

Ill find out really soon when the corolla comes out.. I guess its a good thing theres a blow proof bell housing on it.