well i finaly got off my ass and started to finish my race car. the season starts on march 18, so i need to finish it like last week. any ways i race the car in a stock class. well it is stock, all stock parts. only arp rod bolts to hold the lower end together. the cage is, well way over built for the class. but you cant be to safe. im going to run real dual exhaust. its going to sound sick. i have not put the wheels on it yet, but i got some off set wheels for the front.
does any one have any ideas about the color. i want to paint the interior white. i dont know what i should paint the outside.
If you're running NA, why not drop a 2.4L in it with the 63 head? You'd have good high compression and still be able to rev to 8k with upgraded springs. I hope you replace the header at least. I know Mitsu made a tubular piece for the Galant at some point. You might also look at the turbo vs. NA gear ratios for the tranny. You might find one more suitable to your needs than the other. Also, get a LSD for the front, unless the power level in your car is too low to need it. I don't like the idea of an NA DSM over the turbo version, but make the most of it. There are lots of DSM parts that interchange. Make the most of it. With any race engine, remove those damn balance shafts for some easy HP at the crank and go with the manual steering rack if you haven't already.
Rules forbid turbos in his class and if I remember right it is a 2.4L.. but nobody is supposed to know that
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
lol, and dj wins the prize. it is a cirle track car. in my class the car is suppose to be stock. and it is put together with all stock parts. there is also a claim, long story short if some one wants my car i have to sell it to them, or i get banned for a calendar year. if i say yes to the claim, i get to keep my safty gear, race seat and i get 325. the point for the claim is to keep money out of the class. i hate the claim, in 05 my car got claimed after i set the track record and won my heat race and main. that is the year i won the chapionship.
thanks for the idea about the gear ratios. in my escort (the fastest car at the track) would hit 70 on the straights in second gear. i was worried about the gear ratios, but the power im going to have should be enough to pull off the corner in 3rd about 3500-4000 rpm. the escort pulled 5000 coming off the corner. i can use tires size to help out with the gear ratio, but i have to use a d.o.t. that is a 70 series. good thing talons have huge wheel wells so i have a little room to work with.
i will post video of in car and out of car as soon as i get done editing it.
DJ this is the car i offered to let you drive if you and mike come over here with your vacation time.
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
well if you are not a points holder it cost 750 dollars. if you come back to the next race you get 400 back. if you are a points holder then it cost 450 and you get 100 back, if you make the next race with the claimed car. if claiming wars start 15 cars or more can change hands that night.
yes you can claim your car back. you have 3 races that your car cant be claimed. but on the fourth race before the main event your car is eligble for claim. after the main you meet at the tec pad to find out if there is a claim.
so when my car got claimed it was form a non points holder. he has 4 complete races untill i can get my car back. he put a shitty paint job on it an on the 2nd race he spun out and spun down the wall. torn the front passenger tire off with cv shaft and broke the tranny. i was right behind him when an old bmw took him out. good thing i was aiming on him.
last year when my friends drove for me they got pushed around a little. so this year im coming back and im not a rookie, im going to wreck some shit if i dont get my lane or some one pinches me into the well. so we will see how long my car stays straight.
in 05 a guy put me into the wall. well i have not got to race him since. last year his brother wrecked one of my drivers and costed him 3rd on the season, he ended with 6.
so we are going to race or well meet the wall coming out of 4. i will let him make the first move
what a nice port job, probally hurt it more than i helped it.
On the subject of "stock" parts. You should be able to use a tranny from just about any FWD Mitsu. The bolt pattern is the same on every Mitsu motor I can think of. Another engine combo you might run is a 2.0L with a 1.6L head. Should boost compression and the 1.6L has smaller ports that should help on an NA application. Not sure how important braking is in your racing, but the 2 piston calipers from AWD cars and the NA 3000GT will fit up to your FWD easily.
So let me get this straight...
Someone can buy your car for alot less than you put into it and gets to wreck it if they want (or can't drive or whatever)? I guess it would help to keep it competitive and keeps people from putting too much cash into a car, but if I built the car, I want to drive it.
out of the three years i have raced there my car has been the only claim. i have about a grand into the car. i went with this setup, instead of a zc in a crx, because i got the 2.4 in a van that had the tranny in the back seat. the motor looked real fresh, like less than 10.000 miles. well when i pulled the head off the talon, the head needed to be rebuilt. it only costed me 200 cause the sponser gave me the rest.
when i went to put the head on the block i put a wrench on the crank, well it pushed in about an .125. yeah thrust bearing failuer. that costed 220 for crank and bearings.
i tried to reuse the lifters, but yeah i need new ones, that was another 120. this thing has been a money pit,(for what i am tring to do).
i do like all of the ideas on how to make the car better, but im going to leave it the way it is. im going to race it for three races, then drive my old car until the last couple of races. then i will bring the talon back to win the championship.
where can i find out the gear ratios for the n/a and the turbo trannys. the car should have 50 hp and 60 tq on the next car, so it should be way to fast. i think it will be stupid fast for that class. another month and i will find out.
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
The best I could find on a quick search are DSM gear ratios. I've contacted a tranny guy to see if he has a source. I'm sure there's a big book out there full of this stuff. I just can't find it yet.
[quote="jeffball610"]. Another engine combo you might run is a 2.0L with a 1.6L head. Should boost compression and the 1.6L has smaller ports that should help on an NA application.
I agree with the use of a different head...but look up the 1.8 from an 92-95 hyundai elantra- it has smaller combustion chamber cc's with the same ports as a 2.0, so if he stuck that on his "2.3" or whatever he snuck together *cough cough*. He'd gain some power.
On a 7.8 cr turbo motor it raises compression to 8.2.
i know whats up with the motor not wanting to turn up.
you have a 'closed' combustion chamber.
it will not flow at high rpm.
you can tell exactly when it stops pulling.
unless someone else can prove me wrong, that is it.
is there anyone else who has built one of these?
make the most of your monster torque power. good luck. word.
my old man was talking to so people and they said the same thing. they said you can feel it. belive me, you can feel it. but the motor has huge low end for a n/a motor. i still want to try a galant ecu. but i think its the close chamber head.
im working on getting some dyno time, i just want to know what a n/a 2.4 makes for tq and hp, and compare it to the n/a 2.0
what a nice port job, probally hurt it more than i helped it.
Looks like they quoted the 1994 Galant GS at 160hp / 160tq. That's for a 2.4L DOHC 7 bolt with 1G head.
The GS model came standard with a double overhead-camshaft version of the 2.4-liter engine that made 160 horsepower at 6000 rpm and 160 pound-feet of torque at 6250 rpm
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
im going to run real dual exhaust. its going to sound sick. i have not put the wheels on it yet, but i got some off set wheels for the front. 
