Thermostat Housing

4g63opelgt · Post by **4g63opelgt** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 1:55 pm

Holy crap! I had no idea that the stuff was flammable. I originally read the article in Grassroots Motorsports. Guess you can't believe everything you read. Thanks. Bill, I did see a video of an explosion caused by a guy charging the a/c system with an 'aftermarket' a/c system additive. But you know, that's one of the best things about this forum. Drawing from other poeple's experience can save you.

Fabritory · Post by **Fabritory** » Sat Jan 06, 2007 5:28 pm

Im not ready weld it up yet but this is where im at with my relocation kit last thing to weld besides bungs on the water routing

GRNDSM · Post by **GRNDSM** » Thu Jan 11, 2007 2:03 am

I just completed my own block off plates for an electric water pump, using slightly different approach:

One immidiate problem: I will need to trim ALL of the excess pipe thread, as it hits the inside casting of the head

.

I will be using -16AN hoses.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 5:14 am

I spoke to Eric about his problems fitting his cooling system package in place. the surge tank was plastic and heat from the turbo was too high to place the resivour high enough under the hood

Notice, I have placed the radiator cap in the lower hose, that is because its NOT just a cap, it's a expansion pressure valve, it was made into two things for convience and costs, but its REAL job is to handle coolant expansion.

My recomendation is to keep the expansion valve on the intake side of curculation NOT the out put side ( upper) because under heavy load for long periods coolant pressure will finally over come the expansion valve and blow out coolant.

This would allow a remote expansion tank location to be a bit lower and more out of the way plus the hose is small enough to route anywhere you would like
Complicated Bill

peregrine · Post by **peregrine** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 3:20 pm

GRNDSM wrote:I just completed my own block off plates for an electric water pump, using slightly different approach:

One immidiate problem: I will need to trim ALL of the excess pipe thread, as it hits the inside casting of the head .

I will be using -16AN hoses.

thats what size i use. just cut the threads off and weld the fitting to the plate.

GRNDSM · Post by **GRNDSM** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 3:55 pm

thats what size i use. just cut the threads off and weld the fitting to the plate.

I already cut off any extra thread on the inside of the head, because there wasn’t enough clearance for it. Now, I might cut more/weld depending on how much clearance I have between the fitting and the firewall.

Did you also go with an electric water pump?

peregrine · Post by **peregrine** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 5:59 pm

GRNDSM wrote:
thats what size i use. just cut the threads off and weld the fitting to the plate.
I already cut off any extra thread on the inside of the head, because there wasn’t enough clearance for it. Now, I might cut more/weld depending on how much clearance I have between the fitting and the firewall.

Did you also go with an electric water pump?

no. ive been thinking about it though for clearance sake.

GRNDSM · Post by **GRNDSM** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:45 am

This looks a bit busy with -10 heater core line and two sensors attached to it:

But what are you going to do?

I am not thrilled with the size of OEM temp sensor, as it blocks a lot of the water passage. Does anyone know of a smaller, compatible sensor?

The Autometer sensor is very small and I am not as conserned about it .

Robert Venable · Post by **Robert Venable** » Thu Feb 01, 2007 9:08 pm

I only see one sensor.

GRNDSM · Post by **GRNDSM** » Fri Feb 02, 2007 12:49 am

It is difficult to see, but try this angle

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Fri Feb 02, 2007 10:38 am

Clean work ,Leon, the adaptor plate for the exhaust came ot nice too

GRNDSM · Post by **GRNDSM** » Fri Feb 02, 2007 11:17 am

Thanks Bill!

I used RRE stainless header flange, which is 1/2" thick. I whish it was .1" thicker

. But I know that I am not likely to find something like that.

BTW, I just measured my new "thermostat housing". It is just over 2", the stock one is around 3.1", so I am saving just over an inch. The housing itself is about the same thickness as the CAS, but the nut that goes on the AN fitting makes it around .30" longer than the CAS .

Since I haven't had engine in the car since I made this piece, I am not 100% sure that it will clear. So it is possible that I might have "massage" it a bit to make even shorter...

Robert Venable · Post by **Robert Venable** » Fri Feb 02, 2007 10:32 pm

AHH, that made it much easier to see in the first pic,

tjc · Post by **tjc** » Sat Feb 03, 2007 12:02 am

looks nice, my firewall wishes I was that savy

carguyf545 · Post by **carguyf545** » Sun Feb 04, 2007 4:09 pm

once i said i had pictures of a 4g63 head cut in half.

i dont know how use full this is, but here it is.

Group_B · Post by **Group_B** » Mon Mar 26, 2007 11:26 pm

By restricting flow to/through the head to use a front exit, wouldn't that create hot spots in the block or are the passages not restricted enough to make it an issue?

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Tue Mar 27, 2007 12:19 am

Bill Hincher wrote:

Here are some better details

I hope this clears up what we been talking about

dont forget you are balancing the front restriction with the rear outlet being opened up . I agree with what you are asking and its a valid point, I have aquired a blown 4G63 engine and I will be milling the cylinder head down lengthways, from the top view and then installing a plastic plate so I can see the flow of coolant and then find the proper amount of required restriction and the amount of required unrestriction of the rear opening to make sure this will work

carguyf545 · Post by **carguyf545** » Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:54 pm

has anyone told you bill YOU ARE THE MAN. i dont know where you find time to do all of this stuff.

i have a bad head from a 1.8 you can have just pay for shipping.

S0LJAH · Post by **S0LJAH** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 6:27 am

ok guys im getting through my rwd 4g63t conversion into my 81 lancer my problem now is what do i do with the thermostat setup, im not keen on the modifiying head option as my head has just gone back together ater a new cambelt setup and metal headgasket, will be running a pipe round from the original outlet at the back of the head and under the inlet manifold

here are the 2 ideas i have so far of how to mount a thermostat housing

option 1:
join two thermostat housings together so that a thermostat can sit in there, then i will need someone to ensure i get flow from the hot water in the head to the actual thermostat, otherwise there will be a pocket of cool water inbetween the head and the thermostathousing sitting in the pipe, so have heard of possibly drilling a couple of small holes in the thermostat so some water can flow to ensure when water starts to waqrm up the thermosat will react quicker than waiting for the stagnant water to warm
so this style would let water flow out of the engine and then into the bottom rad hose rather than controlling flow in
would it work at all?
obvisouly the holes in the thermostat would reduce effeciency, and would take a while longer to warm up but is neccessary

option 2:
is to run a remote thermostat hosuing setup, i have found that some of the fwd 4age toyotas (ae82 ae92 etc) run remote thermostat housings, thermostats in them open around 185F which is similar to what a 4g63 is isnt it?

they work basically like this (i think this is one out of an ae92)

so this stlye would need to be set up pre engine i.e inbetween the radiator and the water pump, and would controll the flow into the engine rather than the flow out of the engine?
and how do you ensure flow coming out of the back of the head to the sensor line? would i just make the outlet at the back of the head a twin exit with one going to the radiator and the other going to the sensor?obviously the sensor line would only need to be small

im a real cooling system noob, have never tried to sort this sort of thing out so any input would be appreciated

cheers guys

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Mon Apr 09, 2007 9:00 am

I had deleted these pics because I was trying to save space in my photo account so I reposted if this helps notice the head gasket and how small the holes are in the front and back position

the rear section of head gasket has to be opened up and the front has to be restricted

the rear section of cylinder head has to be opened to accept the extra coolant

I will be testing all this out on the bench with a modified cylinder head, I will be psoting pics as I go along shortly , I just have to get the bellhousing pattern into the casting shop to catch a breath of fresh air >;o)

S0LJAH · Post by **S0LJAH** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 7:36 pm

so does anyone have any proven results this way works effectively?

waht size does each hole need to be open up to/closed to?

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Thu Apr 12, 2007 7:38 pm

S0LJAH wrote:so does anyone have any proven results this way works effectively?

waht size does each hole need to be open up to/closed to?

I'm looking for this info as well. It looks like you can go as large as 1/2" on those rear holes. Not sure if that is overkill or not. Any real world results would be greatly appreciated.

Some people have IMed me about this and say it works fine, but I'm not sure of their details.

S0LJAH · Post by **S0LJAH** » Fri Apr 13, 2007 11:55 am

yea thats my problem at the moment not keen to go willy nilly drilling into my head etc to find out it doesnt work and i cook a motor

might just run sum crappy lines and a remote thermostat and when som eone gets some good results etc lookinto it agian

if i sort out my remote thermosta setup i will post some pics and let everyone know how it goes