I was wondering what differnet shops require or would like to see when you show up to have them tune your car. I've seen frustration with several of my friends when certain things crop up when the meter is already running.
One friend's car would run great and half way through the dyno run would start missing. Turns out that he was using an LED instead of a light bulb for the Alternator light. This wasnt offering enough resistance and therefore, the battery wasnt charging even though the light was off.
Same friend also was doing some on track tuning. His tuner kept adding more and more and more fuel, later he pulls into the garage and I start yelling, turn it off turn it off! an injector o-ring was leaking spraying fuel all over the place. He did a whole track day like that! Needless to say, tuning had to start over.
Another friend drove from NYC to Baltimore, MD after installing her upgraded injectors. She later spun rod bearings on the dyno becuase her oil was LOADED with fuel. 2 hour dyno and tuning bill leaving on a tow truck.
This doesnt say much about the friends I hang out with, but perhaps I've learned from their mistakes.
Trying to find out what kind of pre-dyno checklist people use to save the frustration of having a problem show itself on the dyno.
Pre- Dyno Checklists
Moderators: DJpowerHaus, mattmartindrift
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DJpowerHaus
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Pre- Dyno Checklists

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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DJpowerHaus
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tonydanzah
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the dyno checklist to run at school is fairly simple. Full fluid check, oil, coolant, transmission differential.
Battery voltage. tire pressure critical that both are at the same psi usually run at 32psi. check driveline torque. lugnut torque. air filter. fuel pressure.
i'm trying to think if there is anything else. hmm maybe do a boost leak on your piping and intercooler. also on the drive over try to set you boost pressure if you have a manual adjustor on the road so you are not dicking around with it. remember time is money on those things.
Battery voltage. tire pressure critical that both are at the same psi usually run at 32psi. check driveline torque. lugnut torque. air filter. fuel pressure.
i'm trying to think if there is anything else. hmm maybe do a boost leak on your piping and intercooler. also on the drive over try to set you boost pressure if you have a manual adjustor on the road so you are not dicking around with it. remember time is money on those things.
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Bill Hincher
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do lots of home work, power can be achieved in many ways, the power you develop depends on the combination you choose.
put together a plan, decide on your injector size and header design, turbo trim and all the things you want to try.
take different injectors, different headers, all your turbo trim options, all the designs you found in your home work.
carry an altimeter with you and check the density of the air ( especially if you travel to races).
run a test, make a change, keep a close look on the torque curve, notice that the torque curve is to the left of the graph and hp is to the right? thats because torque is stronger then horspower until higher RPM's are acheived. try to raise your torque curve quickly at lower RPM's so you 'leave' the corner harder, horspower will take care of itself.
document it, keep records for every change and its results
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DJpowerHaus
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My tuner Kevin gave me this list of things to check for:
http://www.lugnutstuning.com/checklist.shtml
http://www.lugnutstuning.com/checklist.shtml

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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tonydanzah
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- Posts: 31
- Joined: Thu Jan 25, 2007 12:20 pm
- Location: Darien, IL
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DJpowerHaus
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