driveshaft extending

blindsey · Post by **blindsey** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 12:28 am

was reading up on mounting the 4g64 closer to the front of the car. just wondering how does one extend the drive shaft?

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 10:10 am

Drive shafts are made from DLM steel or drawn over mandrum steel, it is seamless and has a higher carbon content, its size in diameter is depandant on drive shaft length and by ' critical speed' the formula comes down to, the longer the shaft the bigger the diameter.

You wouldnt try to change your wheels with a 1/4 drive socket set, would you? no, you would use a 1/2 drive set, its because with length,you loose torque, so must add diameter.

You must choose what u-joints you will use and create spacers are each u-joint end to accommodate the given diameters and find a common size tube. then you connect each end while the tube is on a jig to be true and have the joints aligned correctly, after that you spin it on a lathe and balance it for speed

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 3:45 pm

its not that complicated at all.

We just turned the knuckles off the old stock driveshaft so that it would slide into the tubing we used (3" exhaust tubing) to be as true as possible. I then had it welded. Next we took it to a shop to be balanced which isn't manditory, but adds confidence. There is no need to add diameter when you extend a 3' driveshaft 2" longer.

Bill, stop trying to make everything sound so damn complicated.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 8:15 pm

Cant help it, I am German!

anyways, I am used to customers with very high standards, it has to be perfect

after using exhaust pipe on your drive shaft, could you give me a few tips on welding the galvinized water pipe to build my roll cage ?

blindsey · Post by **blindsey** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 10:16 pm

i called a few shops and average cost to do this is 110 dollars. so im just gonna let the pros handle it.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Wed Jan 03, 2007 11:44 pm

Goin to Midas?

blindsey · Post by **blindsey** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 12:03 am

lol no way. going to a specialty drive shaft shop. im trying to get this damn build done for under 1k. so far so good!

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 10:24 am

let me know if I can help, I am always building something in the ' swamp'

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:11 pm

I went to a hot rod shop and asked for driveshaft tubing. They dug up this tubing and it was seriously the same stuff you use when you make exhausts. I even looked at the OEM driveshaft and it is welded (its the same tube that you cleaned up for my steering spacer Matt). Maybe I just use really good exhaust tubing. The question for you Bill is... What junk have you been using for your exhausts?

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Thu Jan 04, 2007 9:55 pm

I don't understand?

I m lost what about my exhaust?

I was being funny about the galvinized roll bar, you know that? right?

I wasnt serious.

And HEY! I wasnt being too complicated, the guy asked a serious question and I gave the proper answer for right material and how to think it out.

I am missunderstood
think I will get therapy

blindsey · Post by **blindsey** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 2:05 am

wow this got a little off topic.

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:48 pm

welcome to the project zero ' experience'

Film at 11:00

Bill Hincher · Post by **Bill Hincher** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 5:43 pm

I took this driveshaft down to Midas muffler and had some exhaust tubing expanded to match each end.

first i took two perfectly good drive shafts and cut them in half

one end is for a BMW and the other end is for a Toyota w-55/59 series trans

I am hoping the wieght I save on tubing will make it much faster!

this drive shaft worked out to 18 3/8 " long u-joint to u-joint

I save even more money by using JB weld bond glue instead of welding it, I figure this is good to 600 hp!
VERY,VERY,VERY REWARDING!