I've been talking to Joe online the last few nights. Me recomendation was to adjust the rod on the master cylinder. We were haveing the same issues (I think) on our first try. We didnt think we'd ever get enough travel out of that slave cylinder.
Oh.. another thing that I've been assuming you guys already knew about was to adjust the arm on the tranny so you have just a tad bit of play between the TOB and the pressure plate when the pedal is not being pushed.
Does this make sense?
issue with slave cylinder DJ GET IN HERE!
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DJpowerHaus
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DJpowerHaus
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I know that the closer to horizontal you get with the throw out fork, the less TOB movement you get for the amount of arm movenent you have... so I'm wondering about the thicknesses of the truck flywheel and pressure plate.
Has anybody ever done a side by side comparison of the truck flywheel/Pressure plate and the DSM flywheel/Pressure plate?
Has anybody ever done a side by side comparison of the truck flywheel/Pressure plate and the DSM flywheel/Pressure plate?

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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AbsurdParadox
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Okay let me make sure I got it straight what you guys are saying. The DSM and Truck flywheel/clutch combos are of different depth (it seems), therefore you must remove slack from the TOB by adjusting the slave cylinder's "Start point" to pull the "clutch arm" forward?
I wonder if all cable-clutchs are this way, because if you pull the slave cylinder on your normal push-type set up, theres almost always quite a bit of play in the clutch fork. *shrug* just an idea
I wonder if all cable-clutchs are this way, because if you pull the slave cylinder on your normal push-type set up, theres almost always quite a bit of play in the clutch fork. *shrug* just an idea