swapp/diagnois question

All the beeping, zapping bits

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mitsuman
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swapp/diagnois question

Post by mitsuman »

did the 4g63 swapp. having trouble with the engine. it falls on its face when you give it gas. i have spark and fuel. checked for vaccume leaks.none found. has brand new computer. just got it today. thinking that was the problem becaues i swapped most all of the sensors on the engine. it is not the cam angle sensor, tps.coil.vacume.fuel or spark it is hard to start like a big vacume leak but i went around the hole engine with gum cutter found nothing.the only things i didnt try was fuel injectors and iac.or o2sens. i dont think iac could do that. seems to be running rich also u checked wires on harness side and sensor side. all checks ok. i have good compression and timming is correct. i know becuse i rebuilt the engine my self. the most it ran was idling in my garage.oh and it idles good. anyone who figures this out is a freaking genious. so if you have any suggestions or ideas. please let me know . thanks greg
Bill Hincher
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Post by Bill Hincher »



go back and check your cam timing even though you are sure thats not it, sometimes you convince yourself that its right and its not
Fabritory
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Post by Fabritory »

Is your Bov recirculated into the intake?
________________________________ FABRITORY ________________________
________________________Fabrication Laboratory___________________________
mitsuman
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Post by mitsuman »

no my bov is not recirculated. but i had a 1 gen befor with out recirculating it and it ran fine. plus i blocked it off and it still did it . also just rechecked cam angle sensor it is ok
91turboGSX
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Post by 91turboGSX »

I don't think a non recirculated BOV would cause those symptoms. Non recirculated BOV would only effect between shifts. I honestly think it's not metering air correctly. Hard to say since i'm not there to see it but I think it's something with your MAF.
Dirtboy488
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Post by Dirtboy488 »

So I seemed to have the same poblems u are when I started mine a week ago. 1st) my BOV was no recirculaed and would not let he RPM's climb unless I blocked the discharge on the BOV with my hand. 2nd) My fuel pressure was too low (static).
mitsuman
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4g63 swapp/diagnosing questions

Post by mitsuman »

OK. IT IS DEFINETLY NOT THE BOV. I HAVE BLOCKED IT OFF MORE THAN ONCE. AND IT IS DEFINETLY NOT THE MAF.SENSOR. I TESTED IT WITH MULTIMETER AND ASLO TESTED HARNESS SIDE VOLTAGE GROUNDS AND RESISTANCE. ALSO TESTED TPS THE SAME WAY. AND TESTED THE COIL. IT IS ALSO NOT LOSING SPARK, SO ITS OK. AND IT IS DEFINETLY NOT THE ECU. IT IS NEW. I TESTED POWER AND GROUNDS AND ALL THE SENSORS ARE GETTING CORRECT VOLTAGE FROM ECU. I SWAPPED THE INJECTORS AND IT DID NOT CHANGE A DAM THING! I ALSO HAVE CORRECT FUEL PRESSURE. ALSO JUST SWAPPED CAMSHAFT POSITION SESOR AND THATS NOT IT. CHECKED FOR VACUME LEAKS AGAIN AND FOUND NOTHING. AND PERFORMED BOOST PRESSUER TEST FOUND NOTHING. I THINK I MIHGT HAVE FOUND ONE THING THOUHG. I PUT MY NOID TESTER ON THE INJECTORS AND TOUCHED THE GAS AND MY NOID TESTER LIGHT GOES OUT INSTANTLY. THE QUESTION IS IF IT IS GOING OUT JUST BECAUSE THE ENGINE IS STALLING OR IS IT CAUSING THE ENGINE TO STALL.? I KNOW THE CAM ANGLE SENSOR AND THE CRANK POSITION SENSOR IS IN ONE AND THAT THE CRANK SENSOR SENDS SIGNAL TO THE ECU WITCH THEN SEND INJECTOR PULS TO INJECTORS. BUT I JUST DONT GET IT. I ELIMINATED PRITTY MUCH ECVERYTHING TO DO WITH INJECTOR PULSE. ECU, CAS.INJECTORS. AND WIRING. IF ANYONE CAN HELP. PLEASE FEEL FREE TO LET ME KNOW. IS THERE SOMETHING IM MISSING?
Dirtboy488
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Post by Dirtboy488 »

What about the injector ballast? Also if it is super cold mine will not climb over 1500rpm until it is completly warm. What is your static fuel pressure at, and do you have a gauge on it to see what it does when you hit the gas? Also is your FPR boost referenced?

T
Dirtboy488
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Post by Dirtboy488 »

Also hook it up to some sort of logger to make sure your computer is seeing all the sensors.
mitsuman
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Post by mitsuman »

I HAVE MY FUEL PRESUER AT 43PSI AND IT IS A REG. FOR BOOST. NOT ONLY THAT I EVEN PUT STOCK ONE BACK ON AND MADE NO DIFFERENCE. IS THERE A SELENOID OR SENSOR THAT YOU HAVE TO HAVE HOOKED UP FOR THAT. CUZ IF THERE IS I DON'T.AND IF YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT THE RESISTOR PACK FOR THE INJ.THEN I ALSO SWAPPED IT. AND THE WIRES FOR THE DATA CONNECTOR IS THE ONLY THING I DIDN'T GET TO HOOK UP YET. BECAUSE I COULD NOT FIND INFO ON WHERE TO PUT THE WIRES. I HAVE THEM THERE AT THE CONNECTOR BUT NOT SURE WHAT PINS TO PUT THEM IN. I THINK I JUST NEED THE DATA TRANSFER OUTPUT AND SELF DIAG WIRE? DON'T KNOW DO YOU?
Dirtboy488
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Post by Dirtboy488 »

All you need ar the two wires you ststed plus a ground. They all are color matched to the stock diag plug from the acc plug.
4g63mightymax
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A possible solution.

Post by 4g63mightymax »

This may sound a bit crazy, but somebody I know (could have been me, :roll: ) mixed up the square connectors on a few different 4G63 sensors. Mitsubishi decided to use the same connector in several different places on the engine. Some of the wire colors even match, but not all. Make sure those square connections are going to the right places, injector resistor / egr solenoids / IAC......you get the idea. All Similar Connectors. Check em out!
Keep us updated!
-Jeremy
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

When in doubt trace the wires back to the ECU pinouts with an ohm meter.

AND TURN OFF CAPS LOCK!!
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
mitsuman
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Post by mitsuman »

thats how i been checking my wires to all my sensors so far. also have been checking the 5v refrence 12v and grounds from ecu to all sensors. so far i did this to the maf. tps. iac. coil pack and injectors. the only thing i did not check was the cas. because it is hard to get to that connector. i have it burred under the intake. but i swapped it and it made no difference and you can tell it is working when you adjust it so i dont think i have a problem there. the only thing i found is my injectors are not pulsing. also i have no cat or muffler on it so that can't be it. i also dont think that it is the new reman ecu becaues when i had my old ecu it did the same thing. that would mean i would have 2 ecus with the exact same problem. i don't think that is it either. if someone could tell me were to exactly put the wires for the diagnostic port that would help alot. but now im out of ideas for now!


sorry about the cap lock thing. i was just to lazy to turn them off. i was not yelling!!!!.
4g63mightymax
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Post by 4g63mightymax »

Did you make sure the plugs were attached to the correct sensor yet? I had a very similar problem and I mixed up the connectors. Here is some info for ya.
The plug to the injector resistor should have 5 wires
black + yellow stripe (injector 1)
black + blue stripe (injector 2)
black + white stripe (injector 3)
black + red stripe (injector 4)
red wire (pin 102 at the ECU which is power)

The IAC has the exact same connector and 6 wires
blue
red
yellow
black
red
white

If you swap these connectors, the engine will run (at least it did in my truck) and it will piss you off like crazy trying to figure out what you did wrong. The EGR solenoid connector also has a similar plug, but less wires, so hopefully you didnt mix that one up.

The Data port (ALDL) is really easy to hook up.
pin 1 and pin 2 at the ECU are the "self diagnosis" ports
Pin 1 - Yellow wire
Pin 2 - White wire
If you just take any OBD1 ALDL connector and plug these two wires into pin 1 (yellow wire) and pin 10 (white wire) of your ALDL connector, your data plug will work.
Hopefully that helps!
-Jeremy
Dirtboy488
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Post by Dirtboy488 »

Also is you timing changing as you increase RPMS, How are you powering up the ECU?
77amc
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Post by 77amc »

So.. What did it happen to end up being??
Just for reference. I'll be doing a swap later this summer.

Thanks.
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