I got my bellhousing in today from Bill and found some interesting things. I'm running a 2G 7-bolt and there are some slight variations from the 1G. I'll post pics tomorrow.
The 2G motor has an extra threaded hole in the block for another bellhousing bolt on the exhaust side. The 2G motors had a different bellhousing that was squared off on that side. I compared the "Billhousing" (like that) to the 1G AWD bellhousing that I had. The Billhousing matches up correct for the 1G block, and there shouldn't be any problems not using this "extra" hole. I did find one flaw. The lower intake side mounting hole seems to be a little off on my Billhousing. It's a tight fit, but it does fit. There may be a slight difference in this hole in the block as well, as both my 2.0L and 2.4L had issues with the supplied bolts. I tried standard DSM bolts, and even without any bellhousing, they were tough to get started and tighten. I'll check into that later. Bill also put 2 holes in the bottom of the bellhousing for some reason. My dust plate doesn't match up at all with these holes. There may be yet another variation between the AWD and FWD bellhousings. Most of the parts I've been using have come from AWD DSMs, so I may run into some issues later.
Overall, the unit is very stout. I'd love to build a big power motor just to see if I could actually break the Billhousing. I seriously doubt it. Especially since the DSM units have held up to huge numbers.
Actually, the lower left bellhousing bolt ( intake side) used an 8mm bolt that was threaded into the the bellhousing from the factory. It was my pleasent suprise to find out the bolt hole was threaded from the factory and would except a 10mm bolt from the bellhousing side ( opposite direction)
the guide pins were kinda tight, but they are in the exact position they need to be in ( I could have opened the guide holes with a reamer but I didnt)
The lower bosses are put there to build support straps up the the lower motor mounts, so the wieght of the engine is not purely stressed on the lower bellhousing bolts. I have never seen a rear wheel drive import vehicle built without supports from the lower part of the block to the lower part of the bellhousing, that is why the bellhousing is built very strong, because when it was built from the factory, the rear motor mounts were right at the bellhousing/ engine connection, but by creating a rwd and extending the rear transmission mount all the way back, you create too much stress on the lower bellhousing/engine bolts. If in the event you choose to use a front motor mount that is in the very front of the engine , you clearly overstress the bellhousing and its bolts
The original motor mount bolts ( at the back of the engine block)are very conveiniently placed for straps/braces, they are placed where they would absorb twist as well as add strength to the bellhousing/engine junction, if you are going to build horsepower a 6 bolt bellhousing is in order . Dont ever loose sight of the fact that the friction/twist your tires are delivering to the pavement is transmitted through the whole drivetrain and into the motor mounts. I think this would require a much stiffer strap/brace than the lower bolt bosses on the engine block.
The longer a brace can be made, the lighter it can be with the same strength.
I would like to know what you guys think before i build these braces, it would be nice to be able to build a motor mount/strap/brace combination if a motor mount location can be agreed on.
I have seen a lot of discussion on motor mounts on this group and would like to be able to offer a simple cost effective way to built them safely and strong
Right now I'm just using the stock RWD 1G motor mounts on the block. I was going to use some tubing and use round bushings. I've seen lots of hot rod guys do this with motor swaps and thought it was a simple solution. I'm still confused on the "braces". I understand their function, but where are they supposed to tie into the chasis? As I imagine them, I'm just picturing straight bar type braces welded to the chasis. Maybe some bushings on them too. Anyone have some pictures or other examples of what these should be?
Last edited by jeffball610 on Tue Feb 06, 2007 1:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The brace doesn't tie the engine to the chassis. It just acts as a tension member between the block and transmission.
Imagine a board across a stream. If you walk across it, it'll sag and maybe even break in the middle because its only supported on either end. If you add a brace underneath of it, there is much less chance of it sagging, breaking and your feet getting wet.
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Thanks Dave, I wanted to add a mounting bolt hole on that side and now that I see there was one on the 7bolt crank narrow block, if I can get a template from somebody, I can locate the hole so it fits both the 7 bolt and the 6 bolt 4G63 first and second gen
how about the OEM spacer plate that goes between the block and transmission?
I'd look up the part number but I don't have a clue how to use CAPS. Starting a thread on that.
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
In the original OEM spacer plate for the first gen 4G63 narrow block, there are two 6 mm holes in the right upper side.
I believe that the lower bolt hole should be in the right location
Those are the 2 bolt holes I was talking about in another thread to make those brackets. That's where I was gonna try to work something out with anyways. Then maybe make the brackets come out in a way to mount a scattershield.
