NA 7 bolt rear drive 1G eclipse

(NA)turalyRWD · Post by **(NA)turalyRWD** » Mon Jul 24, 2006 7:44 pm

Alright its a pretty self explanitory subject but here we go... I bought a 93 Eclipse GS mainly for its rims/tires seeing as how it had alloys aka way better than my steels. I got it from a machinist at work whos daughter blew a timing belt. suprise suprise

Anyway i am currently rebuilding the head as funds become available and will be moving on the the block... eventually. So the question has come up what am i to do with this extra shell here

Well i pretty much got hooked on drifting when i went down to an event in June. Basically what i know so far is that the Turbo II is my tranny i need the question is will that same belhousing that you suggest with it fit my NA 7 bolt? thats my first step so i can order the parts. Thanks a bunch i love the tech info this site provides

Garrett

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:50 am

You have a narrow block. The block you need for a the b2600 bellhousing to work is a wide 2.4L block. They came in RWD trucks and vans. The narrow 2.0L block out of a RWD truck will not work.

I have a 7 bolt wide block if you want it.

(NA)turalyRWD · Post by **(NA)turalyRWD** » Thu Jul 27, 2006 3:02 pm

Well its the funds that im worried about i geuss.. hmm hom much are you lookin to get for it plus how much shipping and the such... because my 7 bolt has junk pistons and valves not sure of the crank/pistons so camparing the rebuild costs and all would be nice... any info/pricing you could give would be great
Thanks Garrett

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Fri Jul 28, 2006 12:50 pm

PMed you.

(NA)turalyRWD · Post by **(NA)turalyRWD** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 12:45 pm

Alright so ive found the wideblock i need the question that remains is will the 7 bolt wideblock bolt up to the b2600 bellhousing and rx7 tranny or is that only 6 bolt or what??? Great community keep the resources coming

Garrett

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 5:21 pm

The bellhousing will bolt up, but I'm not sure what options you will have for a flywheel with a 7 bolt. Possibly a 7 bolt MightyMax/D50 wideblock flywheel. You wont have the luxury of using a 6 bolt Starion flywheel.

Why are you so set on a 7 bolt?

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 5:45 pm

I got the 7 bolt truck flywheel too.

(NA)turalyRWD · Post by **(NA)turalyRWD** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 6:07 pm

There are options for the 7 bolt on the DSM end but i dont know what clutch/plate would bolt into the mazda unit. Today i am starting to look for my rear end which im thinkin of the starquest unless theres another option(nothing too big its only a drift/track car) and possible 4 link setup for the sake of learning four links.

Alright this is all coming together pretty good its just a matter of expenses. Time to go tear down the donor a little farther so ill be back on later!
Garrett

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 8:56 pm

From what you have listed this project will run well over $10,000. Are you prepared for this? Unless you have done this several times in the past I would scale back your dreams considerably. I'm not saying you cannot do this, but I know from experience that things add up and are never as simple as one might think.

Again, I'll offer up any information and help that I can. I just dont want you to get in way over your head to the point that you just give up when its 90% done and see your hopes and dreams leave in boxes for half what you spent for them.

(NA)turalyRWD · Post by **(NA)turalyRWD** » Sat Jul 29, 2006 11:58 pm

Idk how you figure 10k but tell me what i miss
-ive seen TurboII trannys as low as 300
-Bellhousing for about 100
-Not sure of starquest rear end but that cant be more than 300
-not sure on driveshaft allthough i have a good friend whos a machinist where i work that said hes done alot of them so he'd get me one really cheap
-rear suspension is my only unkown but i want to learn four link so i may decide to build my own from some sort of kit prolly less than 500
-stock 4g64 wideblocks run under 1000
-misc fab parts such as crossmembers and mounts and piping would be all DIY so prolly under 500
so maybe 3k is what i come up with minus what i can sell out of the donor
so whats left???

Garrett

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 3:19 am

yeah, I was totally confusing you with someone else with my last post.. but now that I look over it.. I dont think I'd change a thing.

You'll need to remove a significant part of the front subframe including the steering rack, which means you'll need to make that up from scratch.. a total redesign of the front suspension, steering rack, steering column, etc.

Then you'll need to cut out a large portion of the floor pan and firewall and fabricate one of your own.

In the rear, you should just stick with a DSM rear if you're making under 250hp. A starion rear would require custom half shafts which run around $700.

To start this project, you should get the block situated in the car with a simple transmission setup (I think a narrow block D50 tranmission is the best for you and less than $200 shipped usually). Once you get the steering and crossmembers figured out, then think about the drivetrain. By this point that $200 D50 transmisison will be a drop in the bucket and insignificant to toss if you change your direction.

Then you can start spending money

(NA)turalyRWD · Post by **(NA)turalyRWD** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 9:15 am

Ok would it make any sense to chop the spare hump out for space for the diff? If its not nessicary i think im needing to do it anyway my donor had its hatch window smashed and i thik i could go swimming in the spare well

Alrighty ill start ordering parts and keep you posted with the project.

Garrett

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Sun Jul 30, 2006 12:28 pm

Dont touch the rear half of that car yet. Work on getting the front worked out. Get a bare block/head/transmission bolted together an in there, then work on the front suspension and steering. No need to order anything other than a transmission to bolt to your blown block.

(NA)turalyRWD · Post by **(NA)turalyRWD** » Mon Jul 31, 2006 1:55 pm

If i get the tranny fer my narrowblock thats blown that would be the d50 and i hear that is crap fer revs and bein NA its gonna need to hold up to 7-8Krpm pretty much well constantly. Im looking into the 2.4 wideblock which i dont have yet but will be getting when one becomes available. I have a 7 bolt i could buy but the flywheel/clutch limitations are turning me off a lil bit. Is it possible to re work the block*remember i have access to machining equipment and excellent machinists* to accept a 6 bolt crank and therefor the starion flywheels and clutches that are available. I am suposed to call the guy with the 7 bolt this evening so any response would be great thanks.

Garrett

jeffball610 · Post by **jeffball610** » Tue Aug 22, 2006 1:23 pm

Sorry to dissapoint you, but the FWD cars do not have provisions for the rear end out of the AWD car. You COULD fabricate mounting holes and such. But for the trouble and time, you might see if you can find an AWD shell with the rear end in it. Sorry to burst your bubble on this one. Not sure why Mitsu would make 2 different chasis instead of making one chasis and adapting the FWD rear suspension to work.

(NA)turalyRWD · Post by **(NA)turalyRWD** » Sat Aug 26, 2006 9:53 pm

I was actualy 80% sure that the whole rear suspension is interchangable minus possibly drilling holes in the shell... hmmm..? i wonder if im right anyone else?

Garrett

jeffball610 · Post by **jeffball610** » Sun Aug 27, 2006 4:47 pm

This is a 1G car. The fuel tank is deffinately different along with the whole rear end. I know you plan to swap in a new rear. It can be done. I've seen RRE put an AWD setup in a Mirage. The 2G convertables share the same floor pan with the AWD, but not the FWD and deffinately not the NA with the Chrysler 420A. I'm not sure if the 1G NT has room in the floor pan for a driveshaft. I'm not sure though. You might try to contact RRE and see what they say. They're one of the leaders in some of this stuff.

www.roadraceengineering.com

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Mon Aug 28, 2006 4:41 pm

I have a stripped 1G AWD shell with a complete rear end drivetrain and suspension and brakes. Also has the complete front end suspension and brakes. It's been sitting near Janesville for about 9 months now, and I'd like to sell it if possible. Lemme know.

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Mon Aug 28, 2006 6:08 pm

I'll have an AWD (automatic) chassis minus engine and transmission in southern PA by weeks end.

(NA)turalyRWD · Post by **(NA)turalyRWD** » Mon Aug 28, 2006 8:34 pm

The project car is awaiting is sawzall treatment this weekend. The guys at work and i are going to redo the frontend mainly from scratch minus maybe steering components. Im just having trouble with my cage design... its basically gonna be full tube front frame plus the rollcage and rear end bracing(keep in mind this is not a daily driver). Im not looking for opinions why or why not but does anyone have any helpful advice on how to get the front end and the unibody mounted together(i want it to all be connected to the cage insinde the car aswell.) I have a feeling the weight balance will be a hell of alot better this way even more so if i can get a one peice front end figured out... fiberglass or otherwise. So i geuss what that means is the rear end isnt a big deal since all the other shit is so much custom fab already. Anyone know of a 6 bolt wideblock 2.4 in Wisconsin im still looking??

Thanks a bunch
Garrett

jeffball610 · Post by **jeffball610** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 4:25 pm

Well, if you're doing that much custom work, then I guess it won't matter what shell you use. You can check out some projects like MightyMouse, Slow Boy Racing's drag car and others for ideas on the front end. I know Brent Rau runs a 2G and it's a full caged car, but it might give you some ideas too as well as Buschur's cars. Keep us updated and post some pics when you get them.

peregrine · Post by **peregrine** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 1:23 am

yeah your high to do this much work. why in the world would you want to convert an AWD or FWD to RWD when theres an abundance of cars you could use that are already RWD and some even allow the 4G63 to bolt right in? i would rething your game plan and start with something a little less radical for your first 4G RWD project.

(NA)turalyRWD · Post by **(NA)turalyRWD** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 1:29 pm

ROFL yeah i actualy just came to that conclusion while searching for parts. I found a car that runs but the rear quarter got hit and the rear suspension is a lil tweaked. Either an 85 celica supra or 86 supra the junkman wasnt sure. 700 bucks and its mine so i figure the 200 NA horses and stock rwd should do me just fine as a start. Anyone have any experience with these cars?

Thanks
Garrett