The truck is alive at 141,500

TruckA · Post by **TruckA** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 2:26 pm

Its driveable!

I checked the engine codes this morning, it only pulled up the fuel pump which is okay because I'm not using the stock pump or harness. I checked all fluids, took it for a drive around the neighborhood, and it drove fine, didn't overheat. Came back home, checked everything out, then rolled up to the gas station because I was almost out of gas. It still has the infamous idle surge issue that plagues these engines, so I'll have to work through that. Up at highway speed (55-65mph) it was a tid bit unstable, probably related to the idle surge. I slowly took it up to 75 on the way back home and it did fine. Boost went up around 13psi on the way home. I can't really get on it yet because there's more tuning that I'd like to do, plus I have to break in the clutch. But, for the replaced motor, its life began at the truck's 141,500 miles.

Finally driving,

- David

ps, thanks for everyone's help on the electrical issues and check engine light.

peregrine · Post by **peregrine** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 1:19 am

awesome. youll get the small shit sorted out in time. take it slowly and if you get frustrated take a break and come back.

TruckA · Post by **TruckA** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:13 am

I've been taking it slow, there's no way I want to throw away many months of work. I put 65 miles on the truck yesterday with no real issues. I hadn't connected the throttle body coolant lines, and my mechanic friend says that may be partially causing the idle surge, but he also mentioned it may be just because of the different intake. I really haven't dug in too deep to the idle surge issue as a whole yet. I've decided to take my autometer monster tach off since its never really been accurate, and the safc can display rpm and many other sensor info, plus it will be one less gauge to have in the way. So if anyone wants a sport comp monster tach that will have to be calibrated, then get in touch.

tjc · Post by **tjc** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 3:11 pm

I have put a dent in the idle surge issuse. Tested the ISC for resistance and movement and it checked out.
Replaced injector seals and the throttle body shaft seals. I had a big boost leak there.
Also replaced the BISS, its gasket and rubber plug above it.
I still have surge 1 out of 10 times I start it cold but it always goes away when the engine heats up. I don't have coolant lines hooked up to the TB.
Also, I originally had the fan hooked up to run at all times and the engine never got up to temp where the ECU enters closed loop. Now I have it hooked to a relay and switch in the cab (need a thermal switch eventually) so I can let the temp climb faster.

My biggest issue now is the clutch cable. It is manal and I can't seem to get enough movement to put the clutch fully out and that makes it hard to get into first without forcing it.

Anyway, with those tweeks it is way better.

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 5:46 pm

Glad to hear another person got the truck swap running. We need some pictures or videos though

TruckA · Post by **TruckA** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 11:22 pm

Here's a vid, I don't have any of the truck driving yet. I got a little happy footed on the highway through a construction zone, and when going fast I hit a bump and broke my home made gauge pod. It was crap anyway, so I guess I need to find an A pillar pod or a triple 2 5/8 gauge pod to go on top over the stock dash.

Video: http://home.nc.rr.com/davidlane/MVI_2989.AVI

I'm still breaking in the clutch, and need to tune the engine, so there's no great show yet.

David

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Mon Apr 17, 2006 7:37 pm

You could probably just unplug the damn Iidle Air stepper and just open up the screw a little bit. That's what I did and it solved it pretty quickly. Is having that 200rpm lower idle really worth the headache of finding a working Idle Air valve?

blue1 · Post by **blue1** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 7:51 am

tjc did you use an AWD flywheel and pressure plate, so did i and i had to make an 8mm spacer for the throwout bearing to fix the ajt issue.

TruckA · Post by **TruckA** » Sat Apr 22, 2006 7:27 pm

I was finally able to set up the logger and gather some information today. I was glad the logger worked because I had to hard wire the data cable to the ECU, plus use a USB to Serial converter that took a bit to set up. I also finished installing the 2g MAS today and had to re-route a few things in the engine bay. I wish I could have found a mandrel bend for the turbo outlet, but I wanted to drive today and just bought a crush bent exhaust section. The truck is running strong, when leaving the gas station earlier, I hit a wet patch when shifting into second, and accidently broke traction without trying. It sounds great, the idle surge is gone, and the idle is finally down from 2000-2200 to around 1000. Here are some pictures, the engine bay is still a work in progress so don't make too much fun of the ugliness, I'm not after show trophies anyway.

- David

tjc · Post by **tjc** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 12:31 am

blue1 wrote:tjc did you use an AWD flywheel and pressure plate, so did i and i had to make an 8mm spacer for the throwout bearing to fix the ajt issue.

I can't remember I'll have to check my notes-I think it was just a FWD flywheel machined for a D50 pilot bearing and FWD pressure plate but with D50 clutch disk.

I fixed the problem though. Made a 1 1/2 inch spacer on the bracket that supports the clutch cable on the transmission-this took all the slack out of clutch cable and thus the clutch fork so the clutch is now fully disengaged when pedal depressed more that 1/2 way. Shifts great now.

tjc · Post by **tjc** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 12:41 am

TruckA nice job!! I know the feeling-my D50 runs better and better each week. Took a lot of work to get here but things are finally comming together. i now have 500 miles on the swap and am going to try and pass emisions on tuesday.
This thing is quick.

It's raining today and I can't get into boost at all without risking my life. To squirly to log a 3rd gear pull to see if fixing the boost leak takes care of my injector duty problem.

Now, I still need an intercooler. What did you use and can you post some pics?

Also, another new problem. A groove is forming in the rearmost 2-3 mm of my timing belt. Looks like I was supposed to use shorter bolts for the front of the oil pan and I guess that must be what is rubbing.

TruckA · Post by **TruckA** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 1:07 am

tjc wrote:TruckA nice job!! I know the feeling-my D50 runs better and better each week. Took a lot of work to get here but things are finally comming together. i now have 500 miles on the swap and am going to try and pass emisions on tuesday.
This thing is quick.

It's raining today and I can't get into boost at all without risking my life. To squirly to log a 3rd gear pull to see if fixing the boost leak takes care of my injector duty problem.

Now, I still need an intercooler. What did you use and can you post some pics?

Also, another new problem. A groove is forming in the rearmost 2-3 mm of my timing belt. Looks like I was supposed to use shorter bolts for the front of the oil pan and I guess that must be what is rubbing.

That stinks about the timing belt. I had to take off and adjust mine twice b/c of oversights. For the intercooler, I just measured the maximum volume of what overall sized of intercooler I could fit, and just hawked ebay till I found something suitable. The intercooler on mine in is a BEHR unit made for some type of Mercedes. I bought it from a guy that was going to use it for his mustang project. It pretty much fills the whole area perfectly behind the grill. It has plastic endtanks, but seems to hold together fine. My parents had a Honda Element once that had a radiator or A/C condenser made the same way.

I'll have to take some more pics, this is all I have for now: