Starting to Compile all my Measurements I've Taken

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 1:38 pm

Over the last 2 swaps I've measured lots and lots of things for the purpose of posting it here and on the site. Now I have a 2" stack of papers / cardboard and other things I've written down measurments on. I'm going to try to get them at least all onto this thread this week and eventually onto the site somehow.

If someone could use these measurements and draw up some simple CAD drawings, it would really help. I'll do what I can to photoshop some stuff, but things like adapter plates would be better done in CAD.

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 2:01 pm

|<------ Engine 19.75" --------->|<-- Bellhousing 14"-->|<----- RX7 Trans 16.75" -->|

RX7 Transmission total length: 30.75"

B2600 / RX7 slave cylinder bore: .425"
Wilwood slave bore: .875" (7/8")

Transmission Crossmember Bolt Holes - These are the 8 bolt holes that let you have a wide variety of back and forth movement of the transmission crossmember:

<I really need to find a picture of the underside of the car to photoshop up for these next measurements>

: : : :

|<- 2" ->|<- 2" ->|<- 2.35" ->|

This is why I moved my engine forward 2" the first time I did the swap. You cannot move it back with the stock crossmember because its actually 2.35" farther back.

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 2:05 pm

The Starion crossmember to frame bolts (2 on each side) are 4.35" appart. 240SX crossmember bolts are 5.5" appart. The width between sides is 2.25" difference, which means if you were to make adapter plates the sets of hole would need to be 1.125" appart.

This is all the info you need to design your own Starion - 240SX crossmember adapter plates.

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 2:10 pm

I have a BIG pile of info on the wiring of the racecar. I'll have to verify that it works and transfer any changes to the diagrams before I post them. They're really not of much interest unless you're wiring a car from scratch... and you shouldnt its a pain in the ass. Go with a Painless kit...

Siance · Post by **Siance** » Sat Feb 11, 2006 2:25 pm

Would a Mightymax or a D-50 driveshaft work with out mods? i belive it's longer than the starion driveshaft...So if you move the engine forward 2in the mightymax driveshaft might be the one to use, if your using the d-50 trans...

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Sun Feb 12, 2006 2:09 am

No clue.. try it out and get back to us.

blue1 · Post by **blue1** » Tue Feb 14, 2006 8:42 am

Aussie Triton spline size is the same as starion, Gearboxes internally are the same with the 50mm layshaft bearings, it's just the starions have a bit wider gears for strength, Up until 96 model they use a cable clutch then after that it's hyd' so the case is the same just the extension housing is different, but if you wanted to move the engine Fwd 2" the starion ext' housing puts the shift in the right spot. hope this is useful info to anyone.

Siance · Post by **Siance** » Tue Mar 07, 2006 8:28 pm

It's official the d-50 drive shaft will not just bolt in being thats it's almost 2 feet longer(5 1/2 feet)...however the good news is that the d-50 driveshaft will bolt in if it was shorter meaning that yok and tail end has the same bolt pattern...The d-50 driveshaft also seems to be a beefer driveshaft u-joints are bigger which is a plus....Im just not sure if it would be better to make the starion DS longer or make the d-50 DS shorter...

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 8:14 am

Rear u-joints are better? I'd like to see some measurements. I had to take my old starion driveshaft to the driveshafts shop "that can find anything" becuase they couldn't find any aftermarket rear yolks for starions. Sure hope a Spicer u-joint will hold 600hp.

Siance · Post by **Siance** » Thu Mar 09, 2006 5:39 pm

As far as i see it's the same bolt pattern, i haven't tried to bolt it in, but i will when i come to that point...i will try to get some pics....