YOU WON'T BELIEVE...how much you improved your car & clutch action!
10mm adjustment rod (vs. 8mm) and NO RUBBER SLUG
(that wears out) new, clevis pin, washer & cotter pin, too!
Extra threads= more adjustment lenght!
$40+s&h
You might need to BUSH, your clutch pedal, if badly worn.
NO CHARGE to regular customers for a hardend, steel, bushing!
Mitsu's clutch slave cylinders! The best damn RUBBER, you can get!
$65+s&h BLOWS-AWAY aftermarket junk!
Last edited by Professor Quest on Wed Feb 27, 2013 12:17 am, edited 2 times in total.
That GOOF, is wrong! What a shame it is, some people can't
COMPREHEND what the Mitsu's FSM says.
FREE-PLAY...is measured at the ADJUSTMENT rod! PERIOD!
(Which should translate to ".2-.5" at the pedal)
In street terms, you, DO NOT WANT the adjustment rod,
pressing DOWN on that piston, AT ALL!
Give it... like .010" gap, rod-to-piston. Would that equal bout
a 1/2" at the pedal? WHO CARES!!!
The SOS goes into GREAT DETAIL about a Starquest's clutch/pedal adjustment!
ALL vehicles are NOT equipped the same!
However, if you'll use the SOS, it applies to MOST, vehicles.
Woody says:
"Ok so I went to go an adjust the clutch pedal and found the problem. Now I need help figuring out what I need to do to fix this problem.
The problem is that the metal section that is clipped to the clutch pedal, and attaches to the clutch master cylinders push rod, doesn't push the rod, but instead it bends. In other words instead of turning on the clutch pedal to push the rod up, it stays pretty much straight. It is only once the part reaches its maximum rotation that it starts to push the rod. Which is why it only feels like it is pushing the clutch in at the last 20%. Because that is the only point where it actually pushes the rod.
I don't know if I have explained it very well. Hopefully the photos can help, even if they are bad quality.
Here are some photos. Sorry for the bad photos."
Yoooo, Woody, What these pinheads don't know...
the adjustment rod was NEVER, long enough to make-up-for-worn-out
parts!
Any attempt to adjust the rod to make-up the slack, that 8mm rod
wants to BEND, before releasing the clutch! Why?
Cause it's only got about 2 threads into the bell, MOMO!
That is why it TWIST/BENDS the bell, at the rodl!
Would you like a DISCOUNT on MY parts?
It all begins with.....*YOU*, spreading the word, Lunacy!
Impress me, please! (I love to discount my parts! )
READ INSTRUCTION # 5...several times to understand,
Meaning, you just want a SLIGHT GAP, rod-to-piston,
"clevis pin included."
It's a lil' too late to GREASE, worn-out parts!
Some, MOMOs have said: "replace this rubber slug with a stack of washers."
How da fuck, is that gonna CURE a ELONGATED HOLE, and a SHAFT, that just wasn't
designed long enough, to take-up-da-slack (wear)?!
THICKER steel... that ain't gonna wear-out or BEND!
Btw, if your clutch slave is CORRODED/RUSTY...you are workin-da-shit,
out of your adjustment rod!
Last edited by Professor Quest on Thu Feb 28, 2013 12:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
I don't recall posting a pic of a CLUTCH, MC, recently.
My interest (which is fadding ) is only in a Starquest.
Part number 7... those are METRIC, roll pins! They WEAR-OUT!
Must be clocked, correctly when you replace them!
Replace the shaft bushings, if needed. Lube it...and roll it!
Pin p/n MD701 722. (2)Bushing p/n MD701 285. (2)
A new, Mitsu's cable is the ticket!
Re-weld the lever, onto the shaft.
Did trucks go hydraulic, clutch linkage?
Yes, we buy plenty of Wilwood parts, but I would'nt convert a CABLE to
hydraulics...cause a truck, ain't worth it, to me.
This is a clutch, MASTER CYLINDER for a Starquest.
This is a, clutch, SLAVE CYLINDER for a Starquest.
Do you know... that the firewall in a Starquest was DOUBLED, around
crucial parts, as in the MC, too?
What REINFORCES the Wilwoods, MC, is the PEDAL BOX, on the other
side of the firewall.
We sell a kit...that adapts a A/T to a 5 speed. Note the sheet metal is DOUBLED.
There ain't no problem, having a CABLE, clutch linkage.
We cut-out sections of the firewall, so you'll have a templet to locate
the MC, exactly.
you, DO NOT WANT the adjustment rod,
