Just picked up an 88 Conquest project car
Moderators: DJpowerHaus, mattmartindrift
-
songsayratana
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:27 pm
Just picked up an 88 Conquest project car
It did not have an engine or trans.
Since I have a 4g63 laying around I figured I would do the swap.
I have a source for a w58 trans from an older celica.
and then plan to purchase the bellhousing adaptor from bill.
I have a source for the flywheel with pilot bearing and pressure plate.
Just need the intake and any other pointers from folks who have done this before.
I did read every thread there is on this subject and want to plan thouroughly while im aquiring parts.
I currently have a 92 3000gt vr4 that has everything done to it.
I also have a galant vr4 that has everything done to it.
and a saab 9-3 that just has a boost controller.
and hopefully a fiji blue conquest that will be drivable.
Since I have a 4g63 laying around I figured I would do the swap.
I have a source for a w58 trans from an older celica.
and then plan to purchase the bellhousing adaptor from bill.
I have a source for the flywheel with pilot bearing and pressure plate.
Just need the intake and any other pointers from folks who have done this before.
I did read every thread there is on this subject and want to plan thouroughly while im aquiring parts.
I currently have a 92 3000gt vr4 that has everything done to it.
I also have a galant vr4 that has everything done to it.
and a saab 9-3 that just has a boost controller.
and hopefully a fiji blue conquest that will be drivable.
Sounds like you have about everything already. You just need some of the last details.
Figuring out how you want to do the cooling and intake seems to be one of the bigger questions for everyone. Also, you may want to try and figure out something on the CAS. I'll be running a stand alone ECU so am taking the CAS off the head.
Figuring out how you want to do the cooling and intake seems to be one of the bigger questions for everyone. Also, you may want to try and figure out something on the CAS. I'll be running a stand alone ECU so am taking the CAS off the head.
-
songsayratana
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:27 pm
for the cooling, i think im just gonna plumb it like the police car starion with a curvy pipe off the stock location and a long pipe to the radiator, the return will have to be a long pipe also.
the intake im gonna take a sawzall or badazz drill to it, cut the flange off and have a shop weld it to the other end.
i was also going to use some donor instruments from a dsm, since my conquest didnt come with anything.
i just gotta figure out the fuel pump too. do i need to install a new inline pump that can supply enough for the 4g63? or is that pump on the tank now sufficient? i have a bosch intank pump layin around, i could jimmy rig something. but would rather hear suggestions from tried and true folks.
the intake im gonna take a sawzall or badazz drill to it, cut the flange off and have a shop weld it to the other end.
i was also going to use some donor instruments from a dsm, since my conquest didnt come with anything.
i just gotta figure out the fuel pump too. do i need to install a new inline pump that can supply enough for the 4g63? or is that pump on the tank now sufficient? i have a bosch intank pump layin around, i could jimmy rig something. but would rather hear suggestions from tried and true folks.
-
DJpowerHaus
- Sir Post A Lot
- Posts: 1779
- Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2004 3:24 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD
- Contact:
I did Craig's red car after the police car and incorporated everything I learned over the years. It turned out great and I still think it is the way to do it:songsayratana wrote:for the cooling, i think im just gonna plumb it like the police car starion with a curvy pipe off the stock location and a long pipe to the radiator, the return will have to be a long pipe also.
the intake im gonna take a sawzall or badazz drill to it, cut the flange off and have a shop weld it to the other end.
i was also going to use some donor instruments from a dsm, since my conquest didnt come with anything.
i just gotta figure out the fuel pump too. do i need to install a new inline pump that can supply enough for the 4g63? or is that pump on the tank now sufficient? i have a bosch intank pump layin around, i could jimmy rig something. but would rather hear suggestions from tried and true folks.
https://picasaweb.google.com/DJpowerHaus/CraigsSwap#
Using the pipe off the stock location and under the intake proved too inconvenient for even the police car. I ended up moving it to the front. I'd recommend that to you. Its an easy change to make. I'd also recommend making the water neck off the front out of aluminum and welding it on so you're sure its not going to move.
For the CAS, you can use the 95 / 96 front sensors, just take the time to adapt them to the 6 bolt block and head:
https://picasaweb.google.com/DJpowerHau ... 0875850306
https://picasaweb.google.com/DJpowerHau ... 6563957138
Take a night to sit down with some scraps of aluminum and a grinder and fit everything together. Pay the few $$ to have somebody weld the parts on for you. It will save you hours and hours down the road.
Dont waste your time trying to use a DSM cluster on a Starion. Plenty of people have old clusters they'd be willing to give away, just post a request on SQC. Plug and play.. done.. Could save you weeks of time trying to figure it all out.
I'd keep the stock pump for now and if you ever upgrade injectors, throw a 255lph pump on it.

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
-
songsayratana
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:27 pm
-
songsayratana
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:27 pm
-
DJpowerHaus
- Sir Post A Lot
- Posts: 1779
- Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2004 3:24 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD
- Contact:
Well what else do you need? I might as well stuff as much as I can into the box. Some stuff is free, some stuff is not, but shipping is going to be the same regardless. As much as we can fit into the box.

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
-
songsayratana
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:27 pm
Wow, I love this community.
Well, I just got the car last week, so I havent quite taken inventory of exactly what I need yet. Just some of the obvious stuff.
lets see,
I got a complete 4g63+wiring harness and ecu
i got a w58, and intend to buy the bellhousing from bill
i got radiator, powersteering pump, intercooler, 12a turbo, turboback
oil cooler. still has the master cylinders.
I have a guy looking for a fwd flywheel for me and the local clutch shop has a 225mm toyota clutch disc for me. I just need to get the pilot bearing drilled into the flywheel.
aside from the obvious i cant think of anything else i might need other than the instrument cluster and center console. i dont have heater core or blower motor, but i think the junkyard here has one as well as seats.
i do need seatbelts. and that surround that gos around the sunroof. not sure what used to be there, but from pictures i seen of others, looks like some sort of rubber surround or something.
Thank you very much guys. All this support makes the build much more enjoyable.
Well, I just got the car last week, so I havent quite taken inventory of exactly what I need yet. Just some of the obvious stuff.
lets see,
I got a complete 4g63+wiring harness and ecu
i got a w58, and intend to buy the bellhousing from bill
i got radiator, powersteering pump, intercooler, 12a turbo, turboback
oil cooler. still has the master cylinders.
I have a guy looking for a fwd flywheel for me and the local clutch shop has a 225mm toyota clutch disc for me. I just need to get the pilot bearing drilled into the flywheel.
aside from the obvious i cant think of anything else i might need other than the instrument cluster and center console. i dont have heater core or blower motor, but i think the junkyard here has one as well as seats.
i do need seatbelts. and that surround that gos around the sunroof. not sure what used to be there, but from pictures i seen of others, looks like some sort of rubber surround or something.
Thank you very much guys. All this support makes the build much more enjoyable.
Like DJ mentioned, there are plenty of people parting over at starquestclub.com that you can pull the last bit of interior parts from.
If you are looking for the non-electric seat belts they come up but are snapped up quickly. You may just want to put something aftermarket or from another car.
Look at the Jay Racing parts to move the thermostat around to the front. There are a few posts on this site about that. Mine came in the mail today.
If you are looking for the non-electric seat belts they come up but are snapped up quickly. You may just want to put something aftermarket or from another car.
Look at the Jay Racing parts to move the thermostat around to the front. There are a few posts on this site about that. Mine came in the mail today.
-
songsayratana
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:27 pm
-
DJpowerHaus
- Sir Post A Lot
- Posts: 1779
- Joined: Wed Apr 07, 2004 3:24 pm
- Location: Baltimore, MD
- Contact:
Have you emailed an admin?songsayratana wrote:for some reason I cannot log into starquestclub from any computer i use. it just gives me an error message that says i am not allowed to visit this forum.

Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
-
songsayratana
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:27 pm
i did email them and informed them of the error message, no response, that was 2 weeks ago. kinda sucks, i feel like im missing out on a good resource.
well, on a light note, i switched my hks boost controller in my 3000gt to a hallman boost controller and its pretty darn fun to drive.
15 psi with no knock.
well, on a light note, i switched my hks boost controller in my 3000gt to a hallman boost controller and its pretty darn fun to drive.
15 psi with no knock.
-
songsayratana
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:27 pm
parts compatibility
I found an entire 83 starion in the junkyard here.
Im taking the front seats from it.
what other parts are compatible? seatbelts? instruments?
Im taking the front seats from it.
what other parts are compatible? seatbelts? instruments?
DJpowerHaus,DJpowerHaus wrote:
For the CAS, you can use the 95 / 96 front sensors, just take the time to adapt them to the 6 bolt block and head:
https://picasaweb.google.com/DJpowerHau ... 0875850306
https://picasaweb.google.com/DJpowerHau ... 6563957138
Can you link a good write-up to do this mod? This will essentially eliminate the CAS, correct? I'm assuming you just used one of those rubberized freeze plugs in the CAS hole. This would make running a 4G series motor a lot easier in a Starquest.
-
TronCarterIII
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 11:06 pm
- Location: Colorado Springs, CO
DJ,
Do you HAVE to use both the Crank and Cam sensor, or would you be able to just wire in the 95-96 Cam sensor (and weld the bungs to the head) to replace the 1G style?
For the crank sensor (if needed), how about using a 7 bolt oil pump on a 6 bolt block, since it has the necessary bungs for the Crank sensor already cast into it? (does a 7 bolt oil pump even bolt onto a 6 bolt block?)
***Edit: Oil pumps are NOT interchangeable***
Mitsubishi already makes a plug specifically to fill the CAS hole when using the 95-96 CAS, so no rubberized freeze plug needed.
Road Race Engineering has a small write up on swapping the 95-96 CAS onto a 1G head.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1g2g ... echtip.htm
Tron
Do you HAVE to use both the Crank and Cam sensor, or would you be able to just wire in the 95-96 Cam sensor (and weld the bungs to the head) to replace the 1G style?
For the crank sensor (if needed), how about using a 7 bolt oil pump on a 6 bolt block, since it has the necessary bungs for the Crank sensor already cast into it? (does a 7 bolt oil pump even bolt onto a 6 bolt block?)
***Edit: Oil pumps are NOT interchangeable***
Mitsubishi already makes a plug specifically to fill the CAS hole when using the 95-96 CAS, so no rubberized freeze plug needed.
Road Race Engineering has a small write up on swapping the 95-96 CAS onto a 1G head.
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1g2g ... echtip.htm
Tron
Last edited by TronCarterIII on Sat Apr 16, 2011 3:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
TronCarterIII
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 11:06 pm
- Location: Colorado Springs, CO
The 1996 Hyundai Sonata apparently came with a 6 bolt style engine which used the OBDII 7 bolt sensors. If you get this oil pump, you shouldn't have to mess with building a bracket for the 95-96 Crank Sensor. In theory, not tested.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-te ... ensor.html
Tron
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-te ... ensor.html
Tron
Last edited by TronCarterIII on Sat Apr 16, 2011 3:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
TronCarterIII
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 33
- Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 11:06 pm
- Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Don't get me wrong, I like the bracket, looks great, I'm just exploring options.
With the 96 Sonata pump, it seems that only the AWD DSM's need modification to the oil pan because of interference with the t-case, so us being RWD may not have that issue, as long as a 7 bolt, FWD, oil pan will clear in a quest (anybody?).
I hit the junkyard today, but all I could find was an 95 Sonata which was OBD1.
With the 96 Sonata pump, it seems that only the AWD DSM's need modification to the oil pan because of interference with the t-case, so us being RWD may not have that issue, as long as a 7 bolt, FWD, oil pan will clear in a quest (anybody?).
I hit the junkyard today, but all I could find was an 95 Sonata which was OBD1.
-
songsayratana
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:27 pm
-
songsayratana
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:27 pm
-
songsayratana
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:27 pm
From an 85 Toyota Celica.
I never actually saw the car, the junkyard that i got it from has workers that pull the parts for you and just add on the cost of labor to your parts. works for me, i just show up and pick it up and pay and go.
there were thousands of cars.
im so used to my 3000gt, when i got that trans from the celica, i was surprised how small it was, i could lift it myself. the brick of a trans from the 3000gt is almost 150lbs.
so now i just gotta wait for the bellhousing adaptor and a few minor parts and of course the intake modification.
i took everything apart last night and cleaned it all.
i also figured out that i have to take my driveshaft over to the driveshaft shop to have them switch the yoke up front to fit the toyota output shaft.
I never actually saw the car, the junkyard that i got it from has workers that pull the parts for you and just add on the cost of labor to your parts. works for me, i just show up and pick it up and pay and go.
there were thousands of cars.
im so used to my 3000gt, when i got that trans from the celica, i was surprised how small it was, i could lift it myself. the brick of a trans from the 3000gt is almost 150lbs.
so now i just gotta wait for the bellhousing adaptor and a few minor parts and of course the intake modification.
i took everything apart last night and cleaned it all.
i also figured out that i have to take my driveshaft over to the driveshaft shop to have them switch the yoke up front to fit the toyota output shaft.
You may want to check the following post that I made on May 5, 2011. Near the bottom.
http://www.projectzerog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=978
http://www.projectzerog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=978
-
songsayratana
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:27 pm
Update
Alright, after many nights of 15 minutes here and 30 minutes there. I finally got it all put together. Started out as just the shell. Then I scored an engine from a guy who's wife said get rid of that in the yard, how many of us can relate to that. So engine, ecu, wiring, and steering wheel came home with me.
The trans came from an mk3 supra from the junkyard.
Intake in cut with a sawzall and used alumaweld to basically solder one end to the other end.
Water, I kept the rear exit and ghetto fabbed some hoses and relocated the thermostat.
Driveshaft was stock Toyota slip with new Toyota tube with Spicer ujoint and suzuki blank flange.
After parts were acquired i started test fitting and testing.
The exhaust o2 housing in cut from a stainless piece I had laying around. Welded a new pipe to a flex section. Used two Starion driver side motor mounts cut to fit.
The flywheel had a 31mm hole cut for the transmission shaft.
Of course Bills bellhousing!!!!!
after ter the mechanicals were in, I began wiring. Pretty straight forward engine side. Just plug everything back in. Inside wired according to the wiring section. Fuel pump wire is the black and green wire of the main relay direct to the pump.
Filled it, primed it, bam. Started right up. Adjusted base timing and stood back and just enjoyed the pride of finally arriving at this point.
I see why dudes post video of cars just idling. It just feels great.
Looking back it really wasntis that difficult.
Many thanks for those who answered questions, posted information, provided parts.
The trans came from an mk3 supra from the junkyard.
Intake in cut with a sawzall and used alumaweld to basically solder one end to the other end.
Water, I kept the rear exit and ghetto fabbed some hoses and relocated the thermostat.
Driveshaft was stock Toyota slip with new Toyota tube with Spicer ujoint and suzuki blank flange.
After parts were acquired i started test fitting and testing.
The exhaust o2 housing in cut from a stainless piece I had laying around. Welded a new pipe to a flex section. Used two Starion driver side motor mounts cut to fit.
The flywheel had a 31mm hole cut for the transmission shaft.
Of course Bills bellhousing!!!!!
after ter the mechanicals were in, I began wiring. Pretty straight forward engine side. Just plug everything back in. Inside wired according to the wiring section. Fuel pump wire is the black and green wire of the main relay direct to the pump.
Filled it, primed it, bam. Started right up. Adjusted base timing and stood back and just enjoyed the pride of finally arriving at this point.
I see why dudes post video of cars just idling. It just feels great.
Looking back it really wasntis that difficult.
Many thanks for those who answered questions, posted information, provided parts.
-
songsayratana
- Knowlege Seeker
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:27 pm