The Beast Runs!

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 1:56 am

I finally fired up my project truck tonight. It's a 93 Mitsubishi Mighty Max Truck with the 2.4L wideblock engine with stock pistons and a turbo DOHC 2.0L head. It's a nonturbo setup, which is pretty high compression. I'll have pictures and possibly video up shortly.

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 4:26 am

I had a long reply typed but the forum logged me out. I'll repost it later tomorrow. For now here are some intitial pictues that speak more than words.

poorboyj · Post by **poorboyj** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 8:29 am

That pulley setup looks great! Also, what seats are those?

Jay

ZPI28 · Post by **ZPI28** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 9:21 am

looks like alot of time going into that MM,.. Nice..

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 11:41 am

What's the deal with that welded up turbo? Man that's weird.

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 12:15 pm

Thanks for the complements! This things been sitting in my garage for about six months and I had to get it out and running so the house will sell and I can go to school.

The seats are from a 91 Toyota MR2 and are pretty much a direct bolt in. They require a small amount of persuasion, but the bolt holes will line up. I like them much better than my broken bench seat, but they are a bit low. If you aren't 6+ feet tall, you probably won't be able to see over the steering wheel. I also feel that my legs are a bit cramped with the pedals, but it works.

Ironically, the pulleys are probably the most hack part of the project. I used the v-belt pulley setup partly because I used the truck water pump, and partly because my dsm crank pulley was trashed (you can seperate both pieces). In order for my truck crank pulley to mount correctly on the crank sprocket, I had to remove the stepping on the sprocket meant for a dsm crank pulley and make the face flush like the truck sprocket. The v-belt setup is not a problem if you can get the correct parts from Mitsubishi (I believe they came with trucks with A/C and or power steering). What I did was take my truck water pump pulley and mount it on the crank pulley with the crank bolt and two of the crank washers. The washers are what give the pulley the correct spacing so the belt doesn't rub and the crank bolt holds it all together. That will line up with the dsm alternator but you need to swap the truck alternator pulley onto the dsm alternator. From what jay tells me, his stock truck waterpump pulley lines up perfect with this, but his must be a different part since he has a/c and power steering. I found a waterpump pulley off a 1.8L that has the correct positioning, but slightly smaller bolt spacing which needs to be elongated to work. Then went to farm and fleet and picked up a 36" v-belt and it fit's perfectly.

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 12:25 pm

DJpowerHaus wrote:What's the deal with that welded up turbo? Man that's weird.

Still looking for a nonturbo manifold that will clear the engine mount. I tried one from a 95 2.4L Expo, but to no avail. I'm thinking the old 2.0L truck manifold may work if it has evenly spaced runners but I have yet to see one in a yard. If anyone has one they want to get rid of let me know! For now I'm using the turbo manifold and I had my friend weld up a cracked turbine housing I had. He threw it in an oven till it was glowing hot and welded a 1/4" steel plate on it. Then used the turbo O2 housing for the O2 sensor.

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Thu Jan 19, 2006 2:01 pm

For the timing belt the only place I differed was that I used a truck water pump, and 2.0L cam gears. The truck water pump is not as low profile as the DOHC water pump is, so I removed material in key places from it that would contact the timing belt tensioner pulley. Once all the DOHC sprockets, idler pulley, and tensioners are mounted, I used the Galant DOHC timing belt (make sure you get MD182292 and not MD182294 which is SOHC). The timing marks are all wrong so you must see when the #1 cylinder is TDC with a screwdriver or something similar. Also, the 2.0L cam gear timing marks will not be able to be timed perfectly. The best thing I could do without getting valve interferance was to advance each gear 1 tooth with the factory marks. If you remark the gears, it will appear to be timed correctly.

jmhalder · Post by **jmhalder** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:18 am

yay! now ill have a 2.4l 16v beast to race my KA24DE oh yeah, when it isnt detonating like crazy with that high ass CR... congrats, never thought id see it run! as for the exhaust housing, to make the turbo a bolt up later, you shouldve gotten a turbo flange ($24.95) http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html
and a stock DP flange from RRE ($10)
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/flan ... askets.htm
and a short straight pipe and like a 45 degree (or whatever is nessicary to make the outlet of the O2 housing the same location)
there you have it mike like probably $50 and you'd be set. but whatever since you are eventually gonna boost it anyways...
well, good to see it run finally, get that gonzo maf off the radiator

jmhalder · Post by **jmhalder** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 1:42 pm

time to build a mighty mac for mike, later!
linux and a vortex style chip burner in a powermac!

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 2:19 pm

Sounds like a bit too much trouble to make a turbo elimination part that's only going to be temporary anyways.

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 2:33 pm

DJpowerHaus wrote:Sounds like a bit too much trouble to make a turbo elimination part that's only going to be temporary anyways.

Exactly, keep it on the cheap.

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:23 pm

But still. How about cleaning that mess up. I understand its not done yet, but still. You've got these hoses drapped everywhere, and the firewall is all dirty. Take pride in that thing and pull that motor, scrub, paint if necessary.

jmhalder · Post by **jmhalder** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 6:34 pm

screw you mike, do it right! or do it hack

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 7:19 pm

did anyone get the mass email I sent out to notify that the board was back up? I'm also curious to see if anyone here is having topic notifications sent to spam folders on their email accounts... any input?

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 7:37 pm

meh. I'm on a budget here, and more importantly a time frame to get this done.

I'm sure I got an e-mail, but I have since changed e-mail accounts and I just remembered to update it.

tjc · Post by **tjc** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 12:06 am

I got the e mail, i've been waiting for months.
My hack job looks like the one above (except for that amputated tubo-looks sad) and mazda 323 buckets bolt in too
I'll have to get some pics posted, my last step is making an 02 housing and exhaust. I got a mig welder for xmas and am currently learning how to use it-I can make some really ugly welds.
Wiring is done, finally found an injector resistor pac at the yard. Also, I decided to skip an intercooler and just get it running. Bad idea?

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 3:21 am

I assume you got some pistons right? What year range 323 seats bolt in? I'm curious cause these ride really low.

blue1 · Post by **blue1** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 7:57 am

GOT the Email glad to see you back

tjc · Post by **tjc** » Sun Jan 22, 2006 2:18 am

i have a "1g" D50, 1984, and the 323 seats came from an early 90's model-sorry I don't have any other details, I did a trial fit at the pull-a-part when I picked em up.

The 4g63 I'm using is stock, I bought it with compression and leak down test and then just inspected the bottom end, pulled the head and replaced the timing componets. No new pistons. I plan on using an IC eventually but need to get it running soon.

tjc · Post by **tjc** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 8:36 pm

Still can't figure out how to make pics appear in forum but here are some links to them-very similar to above.

www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage. ... F5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetod ... F5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetod ... F5NTQx.jpg

peregrine · Post by **peregrine** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:53 pm

tjc wrote:Still can't figure out how to make pics appear in forum but here are some links to them-very similar to above.

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Sat Jan 28, 2006 12:27 am

Don't bother using 2.0L cam gears. Took the truck out around the block, just cruising around doing 25mph tops. This was just to make sure that everything was working properly, haven't even given it more than 20% thottle yet. Shifted into 4th, just let out clutch and I hear a nice metal pinging noise from engine and it dies. Try to turn it over with the starter and it doesn't budge. Obviously the engine is locked up so I push it into my garage. The timing belt was fine, but timing marks looked wrong, must have jumped timing. Spark plugs are fine, but exhaust cam won't even budge. Took off the valve cover and find both #1 intake valves quarter open still even after cam lobes are past. Took a pry bar to them and the heads snapped right off into the cylinder without much effort. At this point I removed the timing belt and the intake cam moves, but the exhaust cam is still frozen. I figure the 2.0L cam gears made the timing belt jump teeth somehow. Time to get another head and some 2.4L DOHC cam gears at the very least.

peregrine · Post by **peregrine** » Sat Jan 28, 2006 12:37 am

Mike wrote:Don't bother using 2.0L cam gears. Took the truck out around the block, just cruising around doing 25mph tops. This was just to make sure that everything was working properly, haven't even given it more than 20% thottle yet. Shifted into 4th, just let out clutch and I hear a nice metal pinging noise from engine and it dies. Try to turn it over with the starter and it doesn't budge. Obviously the engine is locked up so I push it into my garage. The timing belt was fine, but timing marks looked wrong, must have jumped timing. Spark plugs are fine, but exhaust cam won't even budge. Took off the valve cover and find both #1 intake valves quarter open still even after cam lobes are past. Took a pry bar to them and the heads snapped right off into the cylinder without much effort. At this point I removed the timing belt and the intake cam moves, but the exhaust cam is still frozen. I figure the 2.0L cam gears made the timing belt jump teeth somehow. Time to get another head and some 2.4L DOHC cam gears at the very least.

that sucks. sorry to hear

jmhalder · Post by **jmhalder** » Sat Jan 28, 2006 12:53 am

ah man, the gayest part was that we didnt even get any video footage

we shouldve started it up last night dude! oh well, its time for engine building... and BOOST!!!!!!!!

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Sat Jan 28, 2006 12:55 am

Not a complete disaster. Now I have a reason to splurge on pistons, rods, and a turbo.

carguyf545 · Post by **carguyf545** » Wed May 24, 2006 10:51 pm

yay! now ill have a 2.4l 16v beast to race my KA24DE oh yeah, when it isnt detonating like crazy with that high ass CR... congrats, never thought id see it run!

i was wondering what kinda power your truck is makeing. i am putting one together for my 92 talon. i have a race on sunday, hopefully i can get the motor back together and the car finished by then. as long as i dont need any more parts. i am hopeing for 180 hp.

carguyf545 · Post by **carguyf545** » Mon May 29, 2006 5:40 pm

i think the question would be is the ka in the same league as the hybrid 4g64? if the ka is a better motor, then why are we messing around with this stuff. why not go buy a 240 and put a turbo on it. im not trashing the 240. or the ka. i just think the 4g64 is better

carguyf545 · Post by **carguyf545** » Mon May 29, 2006 11:19 pm

We'll see how the 4g64 holds up on mike's car, i'm very very excited for it and hold very high hopes.

we all have very high hopes. i am in the middle of two 4g64 one turbo and one n/a.

everything i am doing is because of mike. thank you for giveing me the wisdom to spend my spare time and all my money on a motor that should be (how would i put this) stupid, in a good way.

blue_crush · Post by **blue_crush** » Fri Jun 09, 2006 7:48 pm

that was some nice footage matt, i saw vaughn at Indy bash last year. were you their?

jmhalder · Post by **jmhalder** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 11:48 pm

we should rename the topic to "the beast sits, and takes a nap" lol. why dont we go to the u-pull it and grab us a hyundai head, it comes with a 30-day warranty right? i think we should just for shits, and to finish the N/A 4g64 DOHC truck!

oh BTW, the KA24de is no beast, im T25'd now and its FUN, but the boosted 4G64 > KA if anything just cause its unique

rarson · Post by **rarson** » Sun Sep 17, 2006 12:49 am

Anything with a T25 is no beast!

rarson · Post by **rarson** » Sun Sep 17, 2006 2:11 pm

I know this is a bit after the fact to ask, but Mike, about the cam gears. I thought the Galant cam gears were the same as the 2.0 gears except that the key was half a tooth off? In other words, with a set of adjustable cam gears one could move them half a tooth and essentially have the stock 2.4L cam gears?

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Mon Sep 18, 2006 1:47 pm

That's right... they have the same number of teeth aligned to the keyway the same, the only difference is the timing mark. 1/2 a tooth. Could easily do this with aftermarket timing gears.

jmhalder · Post by **jmhalder** » Mon Sep 18, 2006 5:42 pm

Anything with a T25 is no beast!

http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=16810

nuff said