how do i remove this

[LILVR4]

how do i remove this bush peace out of the end of crankshaft , i think engine must have been a auto and my flywheel wont bolt up with it in there

[quicktalon11s]

I've used PB blaster as a lubricant, let it set for a bit, then grabbed my largest vice grips and clamped it on there as tight as I could. Then wiggle it up and down and you should notice it getting looser. For some pilot bushings I've had be difficult, Ive used a metal dowel rod the size of the opening or a old socket that was the right size with the hole welded shut and packed the crank opening full of grease. Using a hammer on the dowel or socket w/grease in the crank can hydraulically force the bushing out also. Kinda messy though.

[LILVR4]

well this is how i got it out didnt have any grease , this works a treat and hardy any mess if you dont mash it as hard as they do in video

check it out

grab some vogels or tip top, depending on your taste..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VD9oz77E3lw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ziuFFyJd4yE

if you are short on bread, try wadded up newspaper or some grease?

[Professor Quest]

In a A/T, they are usually a SLIP-FIT, but RUST is the problem.

One gallon of Muratic acid is about $7.50, sold at pool supplies.

With a brush, apply Muratic acid and keep it damp with the acid.

Better to nose-down, your block. (like into a spare tire & rim x2 or x3)

Muratic acid will....desolve the rust in a few minutes.

You got....a pipe wrench? Channel-Locks should work, too,
to twist it.

Really stuck? You drill a hole, thread it (like #10x24) and install
a screw, to grab-upon, it orrr, go all the way thru it.

Same method you would use to extract the TB, shaft seals (#8 metal screws)
Defined here:
http://starquest.i-x.net/viewtopic.php?t=2599

You could, encounter other parts, that are RUSTED-TOGETHER.

Rear, rusted-on, brake rotors? It is already drilled & taped, two places,
for a 8mm bolt....that pushes-off the rotor. (but remove the signal, tapperd,
phillip screw, first, with impact driver)

After 20 minuets of soaking them in Muratic acid. (recommend you paint them, next)
Note the pre-threaded holes x2.

REAL....Japan, cast iron! Not Mexico TRASH, iron!

Really rusted? MURATIC ACID IS YOUR TOOL!
(gloves & eye protection recommended)

Some say, Coca-Cola removes rust, too. (never tried it )

Would a carpenter chiesel, get under that lip?


I grew-up in Chicago's, suburbs...I KNOW, ALL-ABOUT, RUST!
That is why I moved to the DESERT!

Psst...when I was a kid, I was trained to use grease and a shaft to remove
a pilot bearing.

A: it did NOT work, very often!
B: it makes a huge mess! (grease squirts, all-over the place! )
C: If its a brass, pilot bearing, I chip-away the brass with a very, narrow,
sharp, chiesel! (cut a slot into it)

I also have a huge selection of.......DRILL BITS! (as big as 1.5"!)

Btw, last week, I made a costum, pilot bearing from sinterd bronze
for our Pro Drift Car.

[jeffball610]

Never seen the bread trick before. Cool stuff.

The method I usually use is to just use an air hammer inside the "bearing" directly on the crank. The vibration knocks it loose, not any kind of contact.

I've also seen people use grease and a bolt similar to the bread trick.

In any case, put some WD40 or other lubricant on it first to help break down some of the corrosion.

[Professor Quest]

....which is typical "advice", when one hasn't used Muratic Acid.

Steel-to-steel WILL corrode. None of those products will DESOLVE
rust/corrosion (in a matter of minuets) like the acid does.

A gallon of it, will last you a lifetime.

Once... I poured some Muratic acid into a Aluminum/tin dish,
4 minutes latter, IT WAS GONE! Went-up in smoke!

Can't find the pics...TRUST ME, IT WORKS VERY FAST!!

Don't believe me? Try it yourself.



Ain't my first rodeo. After the "dip". Yes, it surface-rust vey fast.



I restored, 6 of them.





I HATE, corrosion!

[Mjh787s]

IF this thread is still live......

I recommend using a chain wrench. If you have the clearance. The chain makes excellent contact and will allow you to rotate the piece you want to remove.

I once got muratic acid on my garage floor years ago, my concrete made popping noises and pieces popped out and left me with white dots....so I am kinda scared of the stuff.

[Mjh787s]

http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... LIBEPICMAM

In case you don't know what a chain wrench looks like.

[DJpowerHaus]

I just remembered how I got one out before. I welded on a big bolt. The heat from the welding and then the leverage got that baby right out of there.

[Professor Quest]

Yep, that would work, too.

Muratic Acid, is often used to ETCH, a slick, concrete surface...for better
adhesion, of paint, for example. (or mortar)

You delute it, with H2O, not PURE!

Same-as, cleaning-up spills, when you build a brick, wall.

CLR, same, active chemical, but is already, deluted & smells better.
It USED-to-be, more powerful.
(you remove your shower-head, and let it soak= like new, spray)

But, at $25 per gallon (CLR)....better to invest in Muratic Acid, and delute it,
if need be. (Muractic, will burn, chrome-plated, parts!)

Don't be...working-over-concrete, if NOT, deluted! Use cardboard, overlay!

You want a garden-hose, close by!

Eye protection & gloves, recommended!
Some people, Charcoal filters...nasty fumes!

Plugged-up plumbing? Muratic Acid is used to FLUSH, the pipes.

CLR= Calcium-Lime-Rust....which desolves it, very fast.
(concrete has lime, in-it, oops! )

Short-cut & cheaper = Muratic acid.

This CLR was purchased in 2005. It was stronger, then...and smelled,
pretty bad! Today, it is WEAKER, smells, OK.



Banjo-bolts, tend to plug, too!





WHY...does it happen to mention "..Van & SUV owners"
(on this lable)?
Cause, Muratic Acid is a TOOL, that you should be aware, of!




Are, swimming pools filled-with distilled water?
ALL, vehicles...SHOULD BE!!

CAUTION! Non-deluted, Muratic Acid will DESOLVE, Aluminum & alloys,
pretty, damn, fast! (can ruin a part! )

But, using, CLR...is pretty EXPENSIVE!



24 month, flush & winterize...DID YOU DO IT?

5 year, anti-freeze? NEVER, unless the manual, calls for it!!!



Some chemicals... can't do the job, when it's excessive!

[Professor Quest]

What, Chad has to say:


"liquid from one of those "canned air" spray cans you use for cleaing keyboards. Just tip it upside down and it sprays out the liquid contents, they rapidly boil off and super-chill whatever you spray it on. Get the carank end warm/hot with a torch and then spray just the ring. Shoudl shrink it enough to fall out (perhaps with some persuation). Shouldn't be cold enough to temp-shock the crank metal. I'd try other methods first but this is an option.

You could also try chilling it with ICE after heating the crank, but the water gettign in to the joint and crank threads would be problematic. Douce it with some WD-40 before and after, the WD stands for water displacing, that what it was origionaly designed to to." end quote



PQ: Great idea....since it doesn't have, a rear, crank-seal, under the end-plate.
(you can't damage, what isn't, there, with heat! LOL!)

Some people, have a nasty, habit-of, giving-out-advice, when they have,
NEVER-DONE-IT-BEFORE!

IF...you intend, to use that bushing, again...I wouldn't-want, to damage it!
(it pilot-centers, the convertor!)

And, the bushing, I removed & re-installed (in a different crank) slide-out &
slide-in! (both, desert, parts = no corrosion)

CORROSION...is what you are fighting! Not, different, diameters!

Auto Boners, will, loan-you, a "PILOT-REMOVER" tool, too!

I did, call-back, the receiver, of this, rebuilt G54B, to VERIFY...I did, install
that bushing, and it was, still there! 88 A/T Starquest.

Although... sucking-on, a can-of, whipped cream, might-change,
your knowledge! (but I think, he already, did-that, DOH! )

Btw, when my keyboard, needs cleaned...I flip-it, upside-down and shake-it.
Or, with a soft-brush, on the vacuum-cleaner, let-it-rip!

I don't, see-da-need, to waste money, buying a stupid, product!

I have, used, Formula 409 (on a rag) to clean-my, keyboard, too.
Windex, too.

Or, do you have, women-to, clean-up, behind, your, greasy-ass-mess?



Hey, now... you might, wanna, snort-some-of-this!

Of course, I'm just teasing, Chad...cause he, knows-it-all!



This, tool...comes-in, very-handy! Several, different sizes.
The "CLAW"!



Get, a small-one (grind-to-size if you must) Slide-it-in, behind-it,
TAP, with hammer (on the side) it'll, come-out!

You got... a cut-off-wheel? (Dremel?) make a few, slots, on the outside.

GRAB-DA-CLAW! Walk-it-out!

Very nice, weapon, too! (both ends!)

[manorchurch]

[quote="Professor Quest"]In a A/T, they are usually a SLIP-FIT, but RUST is the problem.

One gallon of Muratic acid is about $7.50, sold at pool supplies.

Excellent point. Muriatic acid is good to use when you don't need the globby-stick of naval jelly. Just rinse it off real clean. Doesn't hurt to mist and wipe the surface with WD40 after you're done, too. Muriatic has some water in it, and the WD40 chemically displaces that.