need help for G4CP

All the beeping, zapping bits

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ganbaa
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need help for G4CP

Post by ganbaa »

Hi experts. i guess The 4G63 and G4CP engine is almost same therefor i want use G4CP engine to my project because in my country spare's very full in market but got problem on ECU and harness and main relay (with 8 pin) is little difference plz any 1 have experience or skill for this share with me. or explain me about difference.There some link about this or any 1 used G4CP engine?
http://www.mirage-performance.com/sonata/Wiring/
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Should probably work fine. Which computer will you run?
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
ganbaa
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Post by ganbaa »

Thank you for post, planing use Hyundai ECU also will be attache picture as can soon :lol:
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ganbaa
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Post by ganbaa »

hi experts i got my ECU and harness for G4CP plz consult me how to begin aright remove and cut not useable wires
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Post by ganbaa »

Plz any 1 share your minds for wire connections?
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DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Looks pretty straight forward. You should be able to trace sensors and other wires to determine which pinout is correct. Once you know which pinout to use, you can trace out what you need to tie into the chassis. Might be a good idea to unloom / eliminate what you dont need and then reloom (shrink tubing, not electrical tape) everything to the correct length for your application.

What car / truck are you putting this in?
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
ganbaa
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Post by ganbaa »

Thanks my project car is W201 Mercedes Benz. Lot of people know 190E or Baby benz. This is my second swap of G4CP 1st was my daily drive W201 but some thing wrong on electric or connection of wires, i guess WTS (water temp sonsor ) and O2 sensor doesn't work how to i konw, there when car cold (in the morring or when evening when happen go to home becouse in winter time in Mongolia very cold high Temp almost -35, in summer time works normal) start very heavy after many atempt example (if lucky starter motor is normaly) 10-17 times will be start. About for O2 sensor when car is idle fuel consupation very high therefore I intending for wire connectoin. Also I very happy found this site :lol:. and more i'll be do some post how swap procedure G4CP engine Project car section. If any foulty garmmer and other sorry all my eglish not good :oops:
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

When you unplugged the Mercedes engine harness where did it tie into the chassis harness. There can be several. Find out what all of these do (every wire). You should be able to build the Hyundai engine harness to hook up to each of these connectors. Should be as good as OEM if you use this method.
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
ganbaa
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Post by ganbaa »

Oh I'm already cut out M102 engine wires as car and chassis i used to G4CP engine wires few wires ignition and fuel pump oil pressure thach etc may i lost some wires from G4CP engine ? My skill very bad for car electronic, therefore i miss some wires as G4CP engine have you any idea?
In here ECU Pin out difference 1G4G63 and G4CP DOHC 16V
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Dear experts help me find as possible missing wires for WTS and O2 sensor. :oops:
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ganbaa
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Post by ganbaa »

dear experts plz expalin me about red circled sensors how it work?
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can i connect from ECU pin direct to sensors? but i don't understand how to connect it.
Sensors power source 5V it mean all sensors power? or not ? :roll:
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Post by ganbaa »

plz help :cry:
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Post by ganbaa »

How to power to WTS? any 1 have idea?
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DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Found this 4G63 wiring diagram with a Google search.

http://www.orbitfiles.com/download/id502911555
password: 4evafr33

In the [late 1G turbo] wiring diagram on pages 80-81 of the above PDF shows the sensor ground is pin 24 on the ECU. The Water Temp Sensor (WTS) / Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS) input is pin 20. For your Sonata computer, the sensor ground is pin 23. The WTS / CTS input is pin 17.

Granted I havent seen everything, I've found most ECUs to use similar inputs and outputs to calculate fuel / timing as there are only certain things an engine needs to know to for this. They are also usually wired pretty similar too. WTS / CTS usually share a special sensor ground with the other 5v sensors: TPS, Intake Air Temp and in this case a MAF. 5v sensors also have a special power from the ECU if needed. The reason for the special ground and special power is to minimize ground offsets (differences in resistance between different grounding points on the chassis) which would offset the signal coming to the ECU from the sensor.
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
ganbaa
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Post by ganbaa »

Tnx my friend but plz check pass agian, pass won't work, is it worng?
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DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

What is "pass"?
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
ganbaa
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Post by ganbaa »

Hehe sorry, the file is RAR and prtectod by Password: 4evafr33 but gave password is not match
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DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

It works. I just tested it.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
ganbaa
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Posts: 38
Joined: Tue Nov 08, 2011 12:36 am
Location: Mongolia, Ulaanbaatar
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Post by ganbaa »

Yes it is wroks but 2 days before itrying few times but on display apears password wrong. Anyway it is not important thank you very much
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ganbaa
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Post by ganbaa »

Many thanks to DJpowerHaus as him help my knowlegde increasing also i guess 2 different power supply to ECU 1 of regular power supply(12 Volt from ignition) other 1 is back up power supply (direct from battery ). Plz explain me about diffrence?
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

12V power supply is switched power. It turns off when the key is turned off. The 12v Backup power keeps power to the memory in the ECU. I believe it does this so it can store error codes even if you turn off the key.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
ganbaa
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Posts: 38
Joined: Tue Nov 08, 2011 12:36 am
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Post by ganbaa »

I blow my ECU, guess wrong connection of power supply therefore reworking harness also buy other ECU :(. The used file was wrong maybe difference of years :(
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ganbaa
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Post by ganbaa »

hi all plz explain me about Vechicle speed sensor is this important or not?
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ganbaa
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Post by ganbaa »

Need more help finaly i found correct file for G4CP but car won't start plz consult me how to feed +12 V there my connection of feed 12 but something wrong
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Post by Professor Quest »

I didn't read it all, sorry.

Just so you know...the ecu uses 12v to power itself.

Very often, the GROUND, has it's own wire, routed,
as far-away as the battery cable.
On a Starquest, it's a mid-splice, (on the apron)

However, the ECU reduces the voltage, positive & negative
when sent & RECEIVED, from a sensor.

CTS/WTS: ECU sends a GROUND, to the sensor (usually black wire)
the other wire sends a VARIBLE, ground return...certainly less than 12v
ground. (cause it started-out about 5 volts)
Determines: AFR when cold vs. hot.

In other words...don't be using, FULL-TILT, BODY grounds...that is NOT,
reduced. THAT....could cook a ECU!
Yes, you can change the lenght of the sensor, wires, but never change
the source.

Your PC has 110V. But your keyboard is what? :roll:

Just so you know. 8)
Last edited by Professor Quest on Sat Mar 10, 2012 11:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by ganbaa »

Thank you Professor Quest. i found my faulty, there missed 1 of ignition power.
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Post by Professor Quest »

If/when, you decide to, custom build a system....DO NOT, make
a typical, stupid move!

Remove the battery!

Use a LOW-AMP battery charger @ 2amps, to test your system & volts.

That way, you won't FRY, your ECU & harness...IF, you had built a fault.

As I recall...Starquest had TWO, 12v, power supplies.

And, I know for a fact, that 88/89 had TWO grounds wires, that went
directly to the ECU (from the apron) yet 87 only had ONE!

The more Mitsu, wanted the ECU to perform, the more power it got.
Makes sense.

Member, Starquestrescue, is pretty sharp. You might converse with him.

You do....understand WHY, the negative cable is attached, DEAD-LAST?!

You got a dead battery? but failed to charge-it, for 16 hours @ 2 amps?
That could fry, a good alternator!

Now THINK, what that could do to a ECU...although its wired, correctly?

Yep, I myself, have "cooked" a few things, by PUSHING, too many amps.

Message is: SLOW DOWN! Back-off your amps, especially when charging the battery!
(removed from the vehicle= CYA!)

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I....am a ECU, today.

I want: 12v+, (and ground) cause I have a MEMORY, that needs, power, 24-7.

I also want: a wake-up, call, so please, turn-on the igintion...from
a seperate, wire.

Savvy? :wink:

Power is RESTRICTED, when it passes-thru, OLD, FUSIBLE LINKS! :cry: btw.
The million dollar manual and AFFORDABLE parts too! USE IT!
http://starquest.i-x.net/viewforum.php?f=12
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

LOL. PQ, you should write a children's book from the perspective of an ECU. "The Brave Little Toasted ECU" or something.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Professor Quest
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Posts: 136
Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2008 8:25 pm
Location: High Desert, Albuquerque, NM. The NUCLEAR state!

Post by Professor Quest »

LOL! :lol: I only know the basics.

You shall, too...when you "cook" a few parts. :oops: ...... :roll:

Trust me on this, when you crank-up your battery charger, and the battery is still attached, the FUSE LINKS weren't designed to carry, that many amps.

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I have, fryed a few, when being in a hurry.

I hoped...I have learned my lesson!
Use it like this, when testing, new wiring! :wink:
When you attach the ground, dead-last, if you see a pronounced
SPARK, something is turned ON, orrrrrr, you may have a SHORT! :shock:

A small spark is normal, cause a MEMORY draws, far less. :wink:
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2 amps vs. 900amps? :shock:
New, group 29, RV battery sitting next to it.

Just trying, to establish, NEW HABITS! 8)



One of my...OOPS. :oops:
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Used my commercial, battery charger, 550amps? but didn't remove
the battery cables! Flamed-out, one fusible link! :oops:

No wire faults. :roll: Just a DEAD, battery.
The million dollar manual and AFFORDABLE parts too! USE IT!
http://starquest.i-x.net/viewforum.php?f=12
email: waynescoolworld@netzero.net USE IT!
ganbaa
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Post by ganbaa »

I'm hooked my harness but missing 2 more conectors
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1 is O2 sensor
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and purge control wire
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also i'm want some modification and found with 4 wires O2 sensor with harness but there
Imagediffirent color as original hooked harness plz tell me how to connect it to my ECU harness
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ganbaa
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Post by ganbaa »

Problem happened my project about symptom when engine cold works normal, engine temp reach up to 80 idle speed wrong engine working same like breathing and withe and black smoke i suspect can't calculate air fuel mixture otherwise MAF and ECU doesn't accept each other b'couse i found MAF and ECU from junk yard any 1 know how to adjust MAF to ECU for my G4CP project ?
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