Rods?

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marshal1979
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Rods?

Post by marshal1979 »

I have read many things on here and other places on the web with conflicting information- Rods?

Are the 4g64 rods the same as the 4g63t rods? I hear yes... but I also hear the 4g63t rods on some builds rub the side walls... I am trying to order some crower rods and noone seems to have an answer on what to get... can anyone solve this? ...... please

-Crane
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

4G63 and 4G64 rods are the same.

These rods on a 4G64 crank will rub the bridged girdles found on the 4G63 (but not found on the 4G64 for this reason).
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
marshal1979
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Post by marshal1979 »

Ok so in order to avoid rubbing issues I need to use the stock 4g64 rods? What is the power limit of stock rods? I want reliability and driveability but still kick some ass.

The truck so far-

Air ride with link suspension in rear
Stereo with 9.2 cubic foot enclosure
GM mirrors
custom hood (shhhhhh...top secret)
trans am seats
tahoe rims- going to upgrade after engine is done

I have done all of the work so far but will be having a friend help with the engine(not my thing) The goal is to build an all around bad-ass truck.

I have the 1g head, harness, ecu, modified intake, arp head bolts
and big 16g full kit with intercooler on the way.

Waiting for the pistons (wiseco) & acl race bearings and still trying to figure out the rods... What should I do?

-Crane
89coltgt
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Post by 89coltgt »

I take it you are planning to install a dohc head on the 4g64 and turbocharge it, correct? If this is correct, you can use aftermaket 4g63 rods w/o any issues, unless the bottom of the cylinders need to be clearanced. What Mike was saying, is that if you use a 4g64 crank in the 4g63 block, you will have clearance issues with the girdles. In that case, you can clearance the girdles with a grinder. On a turbocharged 4g64, I would recommend at the least, a set of scat or eagle rods. I would also recommend a set of ARP main studs along with a Kiggly Racing girdle.
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Post by lsr mike »

use these, they have held up very well for me. they're in my Blue motor and now they're in my Red motor. My machinist changes the small end bushings while they were out.

Eagle H beams P/N 5900-MBA

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marshal1979
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Post by marshal1979 »

89coltgt wrote:I take it you are planning to install a dohc head on the 4g64 and turbocharge it, correct? If this is correct, you can use aftermaket 4g63 rods w/o any issues, unless the bottom of the cylinders need to be clearanced. What Mike was saying, is that if you use a 4g64 crank in the 4g63 block, you will have clearance issues with the girdles. In that case, you can clearance the girdles with a grinder. On a turbocharged 4g64, I would recommend at the least, a set of scat or eagle rods. I would also recommend a set of ARP main studs along with a Kiggly Racing girdle.
Thanks, that brings up the next question- ARP says they do not make the main studs for the 4g64, I assume the 4g63 main studs are the same?
marshal1979
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Post by marshal1979 »

lsr mike wrote:use these, they have held up very well for me. they're in my Blue motor and now they're in my Red motor. My machinist changes the small end bushings while they were out.

Eagle H beams P/N 5900-MBA

Image
Thanks for the info-
89coltgt
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Post by 89coltgt »

The 2.4 studs should be the same as the 4g63. Are you building a 6 or 7 bolt?
marshal1979
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Post by marshal1979 »

its a 90 ram 50/MM so 6bolt wideblock, ended up going with the wiseco pistons with 21mm pins (6bolt) and just heard back from crower that the 4g63 6bolt rods will work... I am just worried about rubbing issues.
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

ARP does make 4G63 main studs that work with the 4G64, but in my opinion, just use the stock main bolts (at least with a 6 bolt)

~Mike
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

marshal1979 wrote:its a 90 ram 50/MM so 6bolt wideblock, ended up going with the wiseco pistons with 21mm pins (6bolt) and just heard back from crower that the 4g63 6bolt rods will work... I am just worried about rubbing issues.
Depending on the size of the big end of the rods, you may need to take some material out of the bridged main caps:

http://www.machvforums.com/attachment.p ... 7433&stc=1

Unless you're going with aluminum rods, I doubt you'd need to do anything to the block.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
marshal1979
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Post by marshal1979 »

Great info. Thanks!
Here is a link to the rods I am looking at and the company I have been dealing with...

http://www.buyimportperformance.com/Bri ... bc6105.htm
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

looks like a pretty standard aftermarket rod. What's the hold up? Stop asking so many questions and just get started already or you'll never get this thing together.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
marshal1979
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Joined: Fri Sep 18, 2009 9:06 pm

Post by marshal1979 »

parts are the hold up- pistons are now special order 4 week wait- and just found out this morning that crower lists the rods but does not have them so now I am working on the eagle rods, should have an answer today.

I am also in need of the 94 galant parts.

Trust me I want it done already and the part search is getting aggravating.

-Crane
marshal1979
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Post by marshal1979 »

This may be turning into my build page lol. wiseco pistons ordered and on 4 week delay, eagle rods are on the way as well as acl race bearings.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Take this time to strip that engine bay, clean it down to the metal and repaint. Might as well have a clean canvas for your swap. I cant remember where you stand on this so far, but you could bolt in your empty block and head and start on a wiring harness or other little things.

Tons of stuff to do while you wait for rods / pistons.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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