Brake booster conversion

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77amc
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Brake booster conversion

Post by 77amc »

Hey Guys, I just was at that Advance auto again and saw a diagram of a gm hydroboost setup.
After talking to him about it and saying that I'd like to do it to my quest, he said that it wasn't a GM but for 735i !!

I was thinking of using this power steering assy offof that colt I stripped because it only had two ports and the pump is only slightly bigger than my fist. Very simple!


The hydrobooster for the 735 was around 2 1/4" dia. and about 9" long.
Now I do not know how much bigger the 735's maste cyl is, so I can't make a testimony if it cuts down on widh verses length.

What I remember on the GM writeups was that the line pressure was around 1200+ psi and NO booster.
What do you guys think?
emagdnim
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Post by emagdnim »

there is a guy over on SQC that used a ford hydrobooster set-up... he never posted how to do it.

A write up on doing this would be f'in sweet.
blue_crush
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Post by blue_crush »

yeh he used the set up out of a 02 Cobra. or close to that year, i remember reading up on it. My old Buick T-type had hydroboost brakes. Might be worth lookin at.

http://hydratechbraking.com/products/universal/

Lots of good info on here. universal kits for 495.
88 Conquest (drag)
95 Nissan 240sx (drift/autocross)
95 Dakota
92 Colt HB
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

$495. Ouch. My racecar has non-power brakes. Once its dialed in its nicer than power assisted brakes.
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
blue_crush
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Post by blue_crush »

i was gunna lean twords that. but i think i slid the motor far enough forward to clear the booster. their isnt alot to doin manual brakes is their? as far as setting them up. hows the pedal feel? do you have to pump them?
88 Conquest (drag)
95 Nissan 240sx (drift/autocross)
95 Dakota
92 Colt HB
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

The pedal is firm, but not too hard. I wouldn't recommend taking the booster off a stock master cylinder, but that too has been done. With my car pedal feel is great. You can feel individual wheels lock and you can modulate accordingly. You'll need a strong seat bracket, but don't let the pedal pressure bother you. When you need to stop you'll have no trouble finding the strength. You should never need to use but a little pedal tap here and there driving around. The only time I was worried about pedal pressure was when I had most of my bias towards the rear. Once you get the bias sorted out you hardly even notice.
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
emagdnim
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Post by emagdnim »

DJ do you have pics of your set-up?
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

I have floor mount pedals. You don't want to copy my setup. Find a nice set of hanging pedals instead.
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Bill Hincher
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Post by Bill Hincher »

try Coleman Racing Products or Speeway Engineering to find some nice hanging pedal units
emagdnim
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Post by emagdnim »

I will be using floor mount pedals most likely.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

how far back is the flattest part of your floor pan where you can mount floor mount pedals with master cylinders? If its anything like mine its about 12" back from stock. In which case you'll need a crazy steering wheel extension and moving back of the seat.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
emagdnim
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Post by emagdnim »

Thank god i have short legs!

Well, I haven't mounted the sparco's yet... I guess I will have to worry about the seat after i get the pedals.
77amc
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Post by 77amc »

Now I had non-power on my 66 Impala that I could almost put someone in the windshield.. They were fantastic for just a 'jelly jar' master that wasn't much bigger than a coffee mug.
BUT, that was 4-wheel drum. (11" x 2 1/2" shoes) Still that was around 3900lbs too.

ALSO, this colt that I stripped has a simple power rack (with a shorter ratio) that I could tap into the lines and run some kind of hydro booster.
77amc
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Post by 77amc »

HEY, I was at my pull a part and found a 7series BMW and guess what?
It had the whole booster on there and If I could mail someone the pics to post for me...

It comes with a accumulator tank and the pressure lines but NOT that long.

All of 12 7.8" for the master AND booster or 19" for the whole piece including the shaft that connects to the peddle assy.
Only cost me 50.00 with the lines and stuff so not so bad considering the work to fab the stock stuff..

Errol
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Everyone is welcome to email me photos to upload.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
77amc
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Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2007 1:41 am
Location: N-W Mississippi, Under Memphis

Post by 77amc »

I clicked on all your icons..

How do I email them to you? Sorry, not the computor wiz..

Errol
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

mike@projectzerog.com .. I think I have a link to my email address on the homepage too.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
77amc
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Posts: 455
Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2007 1:41 am
Location: N-W Mississippi, Under Memphis

Post by 77amc »

I think I got the kids 'gunk' and not feeling that well.
I'll try and get the bolt spacing of the booster.
I'm leaving early from work and will shoot ya what I have so far..

Thanks. E
77amc
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Post by 77amc »

I sent ya an Email sir. I forgot to add a topic. Sorry.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Image
Image
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
77amc
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Posts: 455
Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2007 1:41 am
Location: N-W Mississippi, Under Memphis

Post by 77amc »

It looks that each piece is about 6" or so.
From the mounting flange in toward the peddle assy, and that flange is 2 7/8" center to center bolt spacing.
"booster" is about 6 1/4" and master is a close 6" also.

I didn't have the camera with me at the time but the steering box even looked very similar to the quests box. Except it used banjo style attachment points rather than a ferreled/'O' ringed male end.

The little tank I would suppose is a accumulator of some sort and about 10lbs!! and the other is jus the reseviore ?
77amc
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Post by 77amc »

after stripping the quest, I looked at the differences between the colt turbo booster and the quest for you guys/gals that don't wan to try the hydro boost.
the dia looked to be much smaller and still used 4-wheel discs, jsut clocked at a different angle.
I'll try and send pics to DJ to post.
77amc
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Post by 77amc »

I was out finding a receiver hitch for my max and next to me was this Image
Image

For some reason EVERY GM truck in these yards don't have the boosters or MCs??

Anywho, I finally got one and the frame that's on it lends it to be used for most any application that uses power steering.
I'm hoping to use this on my Hornet.

Errol
77amc
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Post by 77amc »

:?: :?: :?: Its' worked on several other sites typing it this way..

I hate computers..
E
Image
77amc
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Post by 77amc »

How do you guys do that stuff?? I followed the directions and even DJ pm'd me how and it works on other sites..?

Thank you sir. E
77amc
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Post by 77amc »

I just happen to be slummin on Ebay and found these..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 2945wt_949

Might be just he ticket for someone who doesn't have power steering..

(It might even save ME some fab work)

E
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77amc
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Post by 77amc »

Got it mounted in the Hornet..
Just had to remove one bolt and it went right in. Further adjustments to the line ends (metric-ASE) and I should be fine..
Well, I'll drop in a re-seal kit for the booster. Here's a pic so far.
Image

Image

Then I found some universal aluminum 1 1/8" Masters from Speedway that can exit either side. Just might need to 'trim' off some of the shock tower.
Let's see if this works
Being male is a chance, Being a MAN is a choice..
JDOliver
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Post by JDOliver »

With your application I can see how this would be needed width wise, but it looks like depth wise it's not much better than a booster.
77amc
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Post by 77amc »

AHhhh. BUT, I'll have close to 2000psi for any brake application that I would like/dream up/ be able to pay for. and NO vacuum draw ..

Like stated further up in the thread, If some are having fitment problems with the 'stock' 4g intake, then this could be a viable alternative..

E
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AustinTSI
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Post by AustinTSI »

Unless I missed it you never actually say what that brake system is from. So what is it from?

David.
77amc
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Post by 77amc »

Mostly Heavier duty diesel pickup trucks/panel vans, BUT I got this one from a mid 70's 3/4ton GM pu truck.

They make rebuild kits for them also, Just haven't gotten to that point yet..
I'm getting to that point that I HATE working with cold hands and tools.

NOW, the vehicle NEEDS to have power steering to utilize the pump to give pressure.

E
Being male is a chance, Being a MAN is a choice..
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