Has anyone used a 1G head and a 2G head on the same car?

All the oily, spinning bits

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AustinTSI
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Has anyone used a 1G head and a 2G head on the same car?

Post by AustinTSI »

I'm going to be doing a 4G64 swap soon and I'm trying to determine if I want a 1G head or a 2G head. The intake probably isn't going to matter since I will be getting an aftermarket intake like a Magnus and I will be getting a aftermarket exhaust also. I don't know what turbo I'm going to be using but this will be going in a Conquest and I will be shooting for 400-500hp. This will be primarily a street car (and maybe the occasional street race if it is safe enough). I might do some cone racing and I might make it to the track twice just to see what it can do but that will be the extent of it.

So what I want to know is if anyone has actually been in a car that has both model heads while everything else was pretty much the same and what their impressions between the two were. Yes I realize the intaked had to be different.

Thanks, David.
Mad Menace
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Post by Mad Menace »

:wink:
Last edited by Mad Menace on Fri Nov 26, 2010 11:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
93' Max, 4g64, 16v DOHC, 18G Turbo, Walbro 255L, 27" FMIC, 2.5" Exhaust, Aero Exhaust, AEM C2DI w/COP, 510cc Injectors, Running on Megasquirt 3-X.

Videos as soon as it's 100% up and running.
sidewayz69
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Post by sidewayz69 »

ok
but isn't the difference between the 1 an 2g head is the air flow?
cause 1 is a 6pin an the other is a 7pin
i am running a 1g block with a 2g head non turbo.
an i dismantled turbo head 1g and a non turbo head 2g

all the valves were the same an ports for cooling an oil
the difference was that the cam from the turbo head was slightly different an the ports were bigger from the turbo head
i ported the ports from the non turbo head
so i dont see why / how u get more power...
pleses educate me
4g63 rwd..........
yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Mad Menace
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Post by Mad Menace »

:wink:
Last edited by Mad Menace on Fri Nov 26, 2010 11:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
93' Max, 4g64, 16v DOHC, 18G Turbo, Walbro 255L, 27" FMIC, 2.5" Exhaust, Aero Exhaust, AEM C2DI w/COP, 510cc Injectors, Running on Megasquirt 3-X.

Videos as soon as it's 100% up and running.
sidewayz69
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Post by sidewayz69 »

lol
the air flow...
lol
take it easy
lol
so you are saying that i can take the cams from a turbo head an put it in a non turbo head....
will i have 2 do anything with the cam sensor timing?
4g63 rwd..........
yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Mad Menace
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Post by Mad Menace »

:wink:
Last edited by Mad Menace on Fri Nov 26, 2010 11:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
93' Max, 4g64, 16v DOHC, 18G Turbo, Walbro 255L, 27" FMIC, 2.5" Exhaust, Aero Exhaust, AEM C2DI w/COP, 510cc Injectors, Running on Megasquirt 3-X.

Videos as soon as it's 100% up and running.
biglady112
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Post by biglady112 »

Wow, so much misinformation in this thread. As well as a lot of things you say man. It is no wonder you have such a hard time with your truck.
4G61 1947 Dodge
screemin eagle
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Post by screemin eagle »

biglady112 wrote:Wow, so much misinformation in this thread. As well as a lot of things you say man. It is no wonder you have such a hard time with your truck.
tee hee
88 conquest 4g63 now sporting a crankwalked boat anchor
Mad Menace
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Post by Mad Menace »

hard time my ass... if going 0-60 in under 5 seconds and twisting the speedo out of whack at over 120 MPH is a hard time Ill take it any day... the fucking thing is fun as hell to drive... and when it did blow up I had it running again a whopping 3 days later... instead of asking questions i put my hands on stuff.

Wanna know the power difference between the heads, buy both, try both, judge for yourself, like myself and others here have.
93' Max, 4g64, 16v DOHC, 18G Turbo, Walbro 255L, 27" FMIC, 2.5" Exhaust, Aero Exhaust, AEM C2DI w/COP, 510cc Injectors, Running on Megasquirt 3-X.

Videos as soon as it's 100% up and running.
biglady112
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Post by biglady112 »

Yea, your posts since your inception here show otherwise. I have seen you have all sorts of problems.

I have run 11.1@136mph at bandimere in my colt. And we have run 218mph in our talon. So I feel I know what I am talking about. And what I see with a lot of your posts is hearsay and misinformation. But glad you are the master of your truck and can fix it fast. You like it and that is all that matters.

Stock for stock, you won't be able to tell a difference in the seat of your pants. Maybe a schoche difference on the dyno. But they both will shine at different rpms stock for stock.
4G61 1947 Dodge
Mad Menace
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Post by Mad Menace »

and every one of your posts here (all 2 of them) since your inception have the Cornucopia and Wealth of all things Mitsubishi. :roll:

And you haven't offered anything toward answering the OP's question in any way be it constructive, anecdotaly or otherwise. In fact you have offered NO information what so ever. and the fact that your here on an internet forum for Mitsubishi tells me that you are probably blowing that out your ass, and you probably dont have much if any sort of knowledge about any of this stuff. Until I see pictures or Videos as proof, I dont believe anything anyone has to say on the internet.
Try getting back on track with what the OP wants.
93' Max, 4g64, 16v DOHC, 18G Turbo, Walbro 255L, 27" FMIC, 2.5" Exhaust, Aero Exhaust, AEM C2DI w/COP, 510cc Injectors, Running on Megasquirt 3-X.

Videos as soon as it's 100% up and running.
Arktis
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Post by Arktis »

Welp, this thread broke my high standards of this board.

I've never seen a single flame war here, people always being polite and HIGHLY informative, if a little raw. I would like to see the posts here deleted. I do not want to see a flame war here.

Have some respect for this board, people. It's far better than 99% of the other boards out there, if a little slow. Don't trash it up.
biglady112
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Post by biglady112 »

Well if the information was correct I would not have spoke up.

I am pretty sure this is a contribution. I have first hand exprience swapping both ways.

"Stock for stock, you won't be able to tell a difference in the seat of your pants. Maybe a schoche difference on the dyno. But they both will shine at different rpms stock for stock."

I also started two threads to show how full of BS I really am. Nevermind the fact I have been racing mitsubishis for 11 years and racing all together for 14 years.

I just say use what you have and get it running. Unless serious modifications are done, there will not be a difference. A running project goes a long way for peace of mind.
4G61 1947 Dodge
Bill Hincher
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Post by Bill Hincher »

biglady112 wrote:Yea, your posts since your inception here show otherwise. I have seen you have all sorts of problems.

I have run 11.1@136mph at bandimere in my colt. And we have run 218mph in our talon. So I feel I know what I am talking about.
why dont we all try earning respect from other members through good input instaed of putting people down?

there is no litmus test on who knows what and why, If you have good input then share with those who need a hand but if you need an 'attabouy' you should have gotten that from the folks you race against
JDOliver
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Post by JDOliver »

To hopefully get back to the discussion now, your right, the 1g has larger ports than the 2g. However many people are now moving to a 2g head claiming a better low end response.

The other issue is the head bolts are different and oil passages on a 4g64. The 6bolt 1g has larger head studs than the 2g. There are apparently some oil and possibly coolant modifications that need to be made in the head to do it right for a 4g64. You need to check into that, I've only see it in passing and it didn't stick since I'm staying all 4g63.
Mad Menace
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Post by Mad Menace »

Image
On the left we have an 8v 4g64 Mighty Max Head bolt, in the center we have a 16v SOHC head bolt, and on the right we have a 2g 16v 4g63 DOHC head bolt, and I do not have one on hand at the moment but a 1g 16v 4g63 DOHC head bolt is the same length as the 2nd and 3rd in the picture but they have a 10mm Allen Head and the washers free float and are not attached. These bolts can be interchanged between either of the 4g63 and 4g64 from experience, but not from an 8v head to any of the 16v heads or vise versa. Basically what I am saying is ANY 16v head bolt will work on a 4g63 or 4g64 on any 16v head, and only 8v head bolts on 8v heads. The blocks are tapped the same for the head bolts. I have not come across a 12v head in a long time so I don't remember.
93' Max, 4g64, 16v DOHC, 18G Turbo, Walbro 255L, 27" FMIC, 2.5" Exhaust, Aero Exhaust, AEM C2DI w/COP, 510cc Injectors, Running on Megasquirt 3-X.

Videos as soon as it's 100% up and running.
screemin eagle
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Post by screemin eagle »

a 6bolt head bolt is thicker than a 7bolt head bolt. if you were to use a 7 bolt head on a 6bolt block you need to open up the holes in the head to get proper clamping force from the head bolts.this applies to the 1g 7bolt heads too. even though they might be a large port head they are still meant for the smaller head bolt hardware. the way to tell is either the pressure regulater in the head or by the exhuast mani bolts if they are all 12mm then its a 6bolt head. if they are 12mm and the outter two are 14mm then you have a 7bolt head. 2g head is small port raised runner high velocity head a 1g head out of the box moves more volume. both will make great power. in a balls to the wall set up a ported 2g head will get you the most power in theory. ive used a 2g head on the hyundia 2.4 6bolt and it worked perfectly. no oiling issues or overheating issues. they do like to pop head gaskets though. i recomend oringing the head and 110 ftlbs of torque on the arps and spray the shit out of a composite gasket with copper spray. the metal ones dont seem to last very long. some might not agree but again that is what works for me on a bunch of cars i put together.

mad i do understand your speaking from your experience but you have to consider your experience is not the final word on what works for everyone. you also have to consider just becuase it works doesnt make it correct either. im not attacking you just giving you an outside observation.

now everyone back to sharing info for this guy so he can help get his junk together so he can enjoy some boosted rwd fun.
88 conquest 4g63 now sporting a crankwalked boat anchor
biglady112
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Post by biglady112 »

Wow. Real information versus false information AGAIN. Sorry to bring it up again, but even someone else said it was wrong. Listen, if you don't know FOR SURE, let it go. It will save someone most likely time and money. I hate to be rude, but if it were me I don't want ill advice costing me. It has in the past.

All 6 bolt Sirius family motors-
12mm head bolts

All 7 bolt Sirius family motors-
11mm head bolts


The difference is as you said in the head. 8v, 12v and 16v. But they cannot be swapped and there is a difference in the years of motors.

They are not interchangable. You can enlgarge the holes in the head as mentioned, but the actual blocks are NOT the same.

And 2.4L blocks are missing two holes for water passages. You can lay a head gasket down from a 2.0L and see they don''t exist. But, a small drill bit and you an drill through the block's deck surface and open the holes up.
4G61 1947 Dodge
Bill Hincher
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Post by Bill Hincher »

bump
77amc
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Post by 77amc »

SO.. 2.4 truck blocks or fwd car blocks? Interesting..

E
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