Mad Menace's Mighty Max, 11/8/2010 Take 2: Stock short block

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:21 am

I have the cash just not the will, and I already have that crank trigger and wheel mounted up to the engine and determined that it was in-compatible with the MS... that was my first "Problem" with the computer

I guess it's just time to cut my losses and take the old 8v head in and have it done, get another head gasket set, then put it on this block and just run the factory ECU and distributor... I'm done wasting my time on cranking a lifeless engine thats never gonna start...

I have ran a compression check, all cylinders are looking good, spark test, all cylinders spark (when they are supposed to who the hell knows) Fuel Test, all Fuel Injectors fire (when they are supposed to who the hell knows) and yet NOTHING I TRY has caused this thing to run even for a second since the 12th of Feb.... so thats it... I am done done done done done messing with this crap, I need my truck back.

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Sun Feb 28, 2010 11:55 pm

I may have been (yet to be determined) fighting a simple understandable mistake this whole time that is causing this not to run, but it could simply be where I have only a 5v output to the coil igniter, I may really need a 12v output.... that simple....

Hopefully

Egoinstigator · Post by **Egoinstigator** » Mon Mar 01, 2010 3:34 pm

Pretty sure you need 12 volts to fire!

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Mon Mar 01, 2010 3:35 pm

as am I... gonna try when I get home...

boise-nic · Post by **boise-nic** » Tue Mar 02, 2010 1:37 am

Mad Menace wrote:as am I... gonna try when I get home...

Keep us posted man, that sucks for ya. Hopefully its an easy fix. My buddy had major problem getting his MS to work and it ended up being a stray strand of wire that was grounding out a pin...took him months to solve. What I'm saying is it might be really simply and when you get it fixed (and you will) you'll feel like you won the lottery.

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Tue Mar 02, 2010 8:02 am

Well, somehow I think I am battling the Ignition Module, I tried the 12v pull up to still no avail, so I ordered some BIP373's for direct coil control, and to hell with these bosch modules

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Tue Mar 02, 2010 8:38 pm

Ok, today I had a little chat on MSExtra.com with jsmcortina one of the greatest site admins ever! I wish I knew what that man knows when it comes to electronics and especially Megasquirts... but anyway, in this chat we discussed how to convert to a 12v output vs a 5v output and so forth, I wired everything up and was all excited to give it a try... didnt work, so he had me run a quick test and see what voltages I was getting out to the igniter, they were less than expected to say the least, so it was suggested that I try this http://www.msextra.com/forums/download/ ... p?id=13599
I built the above circuit, and began disassembling the 12v output that I had wired in last night and found that I had stupidly wired it to the wrong terminal inside the megasquirt and wasnt feeding it the right voltage, so I RE-rewired it and it totally works!!!
I have spark now to go with my Fuel, so I was sitting there messing with the settings to get it started and it kept backfiring... well its getting late around here and it only took about 5 minutes for a neighbor to come and politely ask me to quit for the night, because he was polite tonight instead of calling the cops I quit for now, but I wish I could go out there and get it running instead since I now believe I have all of the right elements to get up and running.

So until tomorrow.... I cant do anything, but if I dont get a chance to get it running this week I WILL get it running this weekend (unless something else stops me or another problem arises)

Watch for new updates!!!

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:38 pm

I GOT IT RUNNING!!! and even on all 4 cylinders to boot! It needs a good tune, but that can wait for tomorrow, right now its time to relax.
I have a vacuum leak going on somewhere, a 2000 rpm Idle, and what seems like a low knock that could be just a setting in the Megasquirt... dont know for sure yet

But the 2.5" Aero Turbine exhaust sure sounds good, quiet at idle, loud at higher RPM's

I was looking for my camera to get a video of it running, but in the quick 2 seconds that I actually looked I was unable to find it, so I will find it tonight and get you all some eye candy/Inspirational videos tomorrow.

I got mine going... now where's yours?

screemin eagle · Post by **screemin eagle** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:52 am

my shit box has been running i just couldnt keep a drive shaft in it. watch out for the servicable u joints they break sooo easy.

DropEverything · Post by **DropEverything** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:24 pm

Mad Menace wrote:I GOT IT RUNNING!!!

Congrats! I hope it runs as good as it looks. Those are some wild colors, but it came together well.

I got mine going... now where's yours?

Still sitting in the car

Don't rub it in.

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:50 pm

Well the day started off rough... bad idle, terrible knock, sluggish revving, and backfires at about 3000 rpm...

Had someone come over to drive while I tuned for a while and things came together with decent results for 1 day of "blind" tuning cause the 02 sensor wasnt working, so I went to vato-zone (in the truck) and got a new one for only 17 bucks, now im able to make changes based upon o2 readings. After about 4-3 hours of running up and down the block annoying the neighbors I got it to where I felt I could go for a short drive.

On my drive I made a few minor changes to the spark advance table to try to alleviate some of the knock occurring at higher RPM's. so it's in a place where if it will start cold in the morning without too much messing around I will drive it all the way to work and get a good datalog for the whole drive of 20 miles.

Still no videos, I cannot find my camera still... tho I havent really looked either

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Wed Mar 10, 2010 12:31 am

Well once again I'm back to its not running... Drove it for 2 days and about 100 miles. I went to get lunch at work today, and it started to miss really badly, but I was hungry and went anyway, and as soon as they handed me my food out the window the truck died right there and then, and the ignition module was so hot that the plastic on the outside of it burned my hand when I rested on it while looking quickly to try to determine what had happened. I had to get a tow back to work and a ride home cause the spark never came back.

I am 99% sure that once again it's either the ignition module or the coil packs themselves. SO, what I have done was I brought the Megasquirt and the relay board home, cause I had all the stuff here to eliminate the ignition module via BIP383 with direct coil control.
I read that the traces inside the megasquirt were insufficient to run the power needed by the coils, which I easily believe, so I devised a plan of attack that someone I'm sure will find helpful/useful in the future.

(for those of us Megasquirt guys)
I simply ran the 330 ohm resistor and a lead from the right sides of R25 and R28 to the x11 and x12 (pcb v2.2) for my output to the relay board.
Inside the relay board I discovered that there were MANY holes and pinouts along the S1 trace (over and under the board) and the S2 trace was straight from the DB37 to the S2 terminal (under the board only). So I cut the trace for S2 conveniently at the terminal strip right before a pinout hole and wired in my BIP383's Under the relay board inside the relay board case bypassing the traces I cut with my BIP383 circuits. Pretty innovative huh? I thought so. We will see if it works.

But anyway, tomorrow when I get to work and get my morning work done I'll get out to the truck and get something done to see if its the Ignition module itself or the coil packs themselves or both... either way... worst I'll have to do is buy a new coil pack setup tomorrow.

Egoinstigator · Post by **Egoinstigator** » Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:39 am

There are specific settings for dwell and timing that have to be right or the transistor will do exactly what you had happen.

Unless I misread previous posts, you changed to new drivers rather than the one that was on the MS originally...

I know the article at DIYautotune for installing MS on a 4g63 has details about this issue if you have not seen it yet.

Sorry to hear of your troubles man... I know it is frustrating as hell.

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:00 pm

There was never an "original" driver on the MS1 pcb v2.2 board, merely a set of "add in" components to, in my opinion "create the illusion" of spark so no, I didnt remove the original driver and replace it, I finally added in the "proper" circuit. and I was running your dwell settings as you had told me you were firing the stock igniter and coils (which by the way you are firing at 5v on the pcb v3.0... as per a previous conversation we had) but I had actually backed them off from 5.0ms Cranking 3.8ms Running to 4.7ms Cranking and 3.3ms Running (tuned as per MSExtra Manual)
I've read thru all of the articles I could find several time the best was actually at a Puerto Rican rican site like MegasquirtPR.com I believe... and downloaded EVERY MSQ at the repository and looked at each and every one of them quite in depth, but the only problem with that was that they are ALL for either the 420a (BOO!) or the 2.0L 4g63 not in anyway specific to my 4g64. I'm starting to think that I'm the only one with a swapped head on my 4g64 instead of the "whole she-bang" 4g63 swap.

Anyway I do believe it to be another set of junk yard coils to blame.... sad part is, a specifically NEW set of OE coils is Unavailable in this State and I have to Special order them in, so I was gonna opt for MSD or Accel coils... Unavailable in this state. I literally got mad and stormed out of 2 different parts stores due to the sheer lack of intelligence on parts store clerks behalf... they are all like 10 year old kids in diapers that dont know what a DIS coilpack even is. maybe I should just get another set of BIP383's and wire up 4, straight up old school MSD Blaster coils like my Dad suggested.

Egoinstigator · Post by **Egoinstigator** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 1:04 am

SOunds like you got it fiogured out then... I like the MSD stuff I use on my other toys.... I just went as cheap as possible on this one.

The Ignition settings I used and that you got all came from a tune I had found on the Symtec site for a 4g63.

My rig starts on first crank, idles, and runs on up through redline cutout with those settings... So, you must have some hardware issues like ya said.

I am anxious to see some vids of your toy brother.

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Sat Mar 13, 2010 12:15 am

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nRBCujYzVcY
Here is a video of it running badly... when it was running... hope to get it running this weekend again

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:49 pm

Ok running again, and actually much better I must say. I had a rev limiter setup at 5000 rpm to help me protect my investment off the start and could never actually get the engine there physically...... until today... I actually saw my first boost leak today too when it blew one of the silicone connectors apart right before the throttle body... guess my pipe wasnt long enough... or I actually built boost for once.

but after installing the new bip373 coil drivers and changing up to the Accel Super Coils, I had a little snag with problematic processor resets that I diagnosed right away to be the grounds for the coil drivers pulling the entire ECU circuit down and not allowing the ECU to do its thing, so I gave them their own dedicated grounds directly to the battery and bam... resets went away and the truck runs soo much cleaner... tho its still only rough tuned... I will get some tuning done this week and hopefully get some good news coming my way.

I need to get it starting first crank, and to keep running right off instead of multiple starts... I guess ASE and Warmup settings are off as well as Spark timing and cranking PW... its also running pretty rich right now... Im guessing my supposed "stock" injectors arent 240cc like I originally thought.

screemin eagle · Post by **screemin eagle** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 8:58 pm

if they are turbo stock injectors from a stock dsm 5 spd they are 450 cc a/t are 340 evo stockers are 510cc

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Thu Mar 18, 2010 9:00 pm

NOT REALLY SURE... THEY ARE SUPPOSED TO BE 2G... oops caps was on.
anyway stock 2g injectors... but they over fuel at the "proper" PW setting

Egoinstigator · Post by **Egoinstigator** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 9:00 pm

Nice video! It sounds like it was missing on one cylinder. Mine did the same thing till I swapped in all new plugs.

I have a set of 510 cc injectors I will let go for cheap BTW....

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Sun Mar 21, 2010 9:03 pm

how cheap? im sorta in need of something bigger... I was just out spark tuning a little bit and got it running a bit better.
Last week I swapped in 1 step colder plugs and the week before was a set o Accel Super coils.
Now I gotta fix the oil and water leaks that are driving me crazy.

I also accidentally found a Compression leak around the #3... probably my miss right there

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Mon Apr 05, 2010 6:38 pm

Thanks Man, Once they get here hopefully I can make it over 4000RPM and actually make some power.

Right now I have it so it starts semi ok, and idles roughly for a minute then straightens out (havent quite figured out the cause of that yet) but as far as running down the road it still has a stumble of some sort, and I'm not quite sure on the spark map completely since I still have no timing light to work with that works with wasted spark ignitions.
But it is driveable, to a point... bumps cause resets in the MS1 ECU that cripple me to the side of the road (if I am lucky enough to be rolling when it happens) that need to be addressed before I can really drive it anywhere. I got the hood and grille put back on, and discovered that its my cam seals as my main cause of oil leakage.

Also I somehow managed to break the speedo cable right at the speedo head so I had to get a new one of those too.

1 quick question since I tried searching and came up with Alternator relocation instead...
There is a 2 wire plug on the back of the alternator with a Lt. Blue wire and a slightly larger Lt. Yellow wire, these I assume are the field coils feeds for the alternator, its easy to tell by looking that the larger guage wire is the Positive feed and the smaller is the negative feed, but my question here is, what type of a signal is this alternator expecting to charge? Duty Cycle? Pulse Width? 12v + unrestricted?
cause whatever it is, I am apparently not giving it to it, and need to be

Egoinstigator · Post by **Egoinstigator** » Tue Apr 06, 2010 5:01 pm

The 510's will make you some power... enough to eat up 1'st, 2'nd, and most of 3'rd. I hope you got a Posi.

Regarding the signal for the alternator / regulator... I honestly do not know for sure. I have not even touched mine other than to remove it and put it back in the same place it was originally.

I am fairly certain the regulator senses voltage of the battery and regulates the output based on the load differential up to it's maximum output via a DC rectifier.

I can only think to check the regulator and plug to make sure it is showing some battery voltage and that the regulator has SOME output once you start the vehicle... I think the TWO wire setup switches ground on to energize the system.

Good luck with it all!

Stevo59 · Post by **Stevo59** » Fri Apr 09, 2010 2:38 pm

Hi! Loving the colours on your engine. Looks real good so far.
I am thinking about dropping a 4G63T from an Evo II into my RWD L200 double cab. At present my L200 is powered by the 2.5 4D56 diesel lump. What I'm wanting to know is what gearbox to use (or can I use the box already fitted for RWD). Preferably I would like 4WD but that sounds a little complicated to me? Also will the standard fitted prop shaft work with the conversion or will I have to find another prop and diff? Any info you can provide to this engine transplant will help as I have only ever done simple Vauxhall engine conversions... and they use the same engine mounts, driveshafts and the gearbox mounting are exactly the same from model to model... so an easy conversion really. Wiring, brakes, suspension etc I can deal with it's just as I say the mounting and prop shaft... or anything else needed if converting to 4WD. Thanks for your help. I will upload photos of my project once I start. For now It's just a plan until I know all the details of the conversion. Cheers! Keep up the good work.

PS. I live in Cyprus and will be shipping all my parts over from Britain as it is real expensive here for anything car related including the price of used cars.

Thanks again.

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:39 pm

Thanks man,

I would gladly be willing to help you out, as well as everyone else here too, but you need to create your own thread so all pertinent information to you build is kept in your particular thread...

We were all once "Newbs" here

and a quick note for Rob....
INP-015 Yellow top injectors are rated for 510 cc/min (536 cc/min actual) and are 2.3ohm resistance and therefore are "Peak and Hold" injectors or "LowZ"
as I am sure you know, anything under 10ohm is LowZ and above 10 is HighZ

I had them flow tested and all yesterday... looks like I'm gonna need to locate myself a set of resistor blocks.

Thanks for that tho man, I am sure they will make an extreme difference once i get them installed.

Gentleman Rogue · Post by **Gentleman Rogue** » Mon Apr 12, 2010 5:53 am

if you can use a stock DSM resistor, i have a spare laying around i'd be willing to let go.

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Mon Apr 12, 2010 7:06 am

Really... How much to let it go?

Gentleman Rogue · Post by **Gentleman Rogue** » Mon Apr 12, 2010 9:20 am

I don't know, $10 plus a few bucks for shipping sound fair?

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Mon Apr 12, 2010 11:54 am

Sounds way too fair to pass up... hit me up with the correct info and I can paypal you if necessary.

Egoinstigator · Post by **Egoinstigator** » Mon Apr 12, 2010 1:25 pm

Hope the injectors serve you well. I am glad you got them. I was hoping there where no issues.

I got more parts I gotta get ride of because I sold my house and the less I have to move the better.

Thanks for the info!

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Tue Apr 27, 2010 10:09 pm

Got my injectors and resistor installed last weekend, and frankly speaking... the truck ran like s#%t.

It just so happened that my mom and dad found me out on the road and were following me for a minute when the truck backfired and about blew the exhaust clean off the turbo and threw a good 4 foot flame out the tail pipe...

My dad then called me and told me he was right behind me and that I should pull over and let him climb in and try to help.....
My dad may not know much about computer controls on vehicles, but he sure does know his shit when it comes to tuning... I showed him how to access the VE tables and Spark tables in Tunerstudio and then how to adjust the cells, when he said cut the fuel by half and bring up the spark table... so I did and damn the difference it made... we went for a good little cruise and got the cruise areas of the maps dialed in somewhat when the lappy died.

We went out again today and made some more adjustments and now I almost feel like its trust worthy to drive... my dad got my turbo kicking in sooner and better, tuned out the black smoke at idle, cruise and low load acceleration.
If i didnt know better I would swear my dad had done this on a computer controlled car before, but 100% of his experience in gasoline engines is in high performance carbourated vehicles with distributors

Getting soooo much closer... I can almost taste Bandimere

Egoinstigator · Post by **Egoinstigator** » Wed Apr 28, 2010 1:56 am

Good to hear! keep it up man, and keep us posted!

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Sat May 08, 2010 11:03 am

Man I am just not getting any power out of this thing, it gets a little better every day but still no rolling burnouts or even chirping tires, i have seen 1-2psi boost at best... hell, it only barely started to get out of its own way the other day with the discovery that the VR sensor signal is soo powerful it was over powering the MS daughter card at 3300 rpm.
And the alternator isn't charging so I installed a second battery for now, but it gets old having to charge it every night and only getting about an hour worth of tuning done before the Laptop dies and its not too advisable to use the power inverter without an alternator... and it still has an oil leak from hell... I am beginning to spot the entire roadway that I travel to and from work daily.
It's still a project in the making, just wanted to let everyone know whats going on...

screemin eagle · Post by **screemin eagle** » Sat May 08, 2010 6:58 pm

might want to check for boost leaks. what kinda turbo is on that thing?

Egoinstigator · Post by **Egoinstigator** » Sat May 08, 2010 8:17 pm

You...boost leak from hell. You should be doing rolling burnouts like me easy. The whole VR signal issue baffles me too. That should not happen ever.

I have a little leak somewhere from the front of mine too, but I keep it parked in the grass and rarely drive it since I have a stable of 5 vehicles these days. It's kind of ridiculous for one person to have that many, but I inherited a few.

Get that boost issue solved and get some rubber laid down!

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Sat May 08, 2010 11:08 pm

It's a 18g b whatever... its an 18 look on the first page for specifics on when i posted it when i got it.

Well I see maybe 1-2 psi boost and it only picks up at about the same rate... but heres the thing... throttle response... there is none and after about 4000 in 4th or 5th the boost begins to decrease vs increase... now if you ask me its not a boost leak so much as its going to be something different like cam timing or something... wish i knew more about that kind of stuff, but i have heard of adjusting the exhaust cam as to reduce valve overlap and create more of a 'pop' into the exhaust system to spin the turbo like adjustable cam gears would do for you, but i wouldnt know where to start or how to do that... line up intake and turn exhaust away from 'center'?

I can post my *.msq and datalogs, but I was not able to in any way use any of the msq's from the repo like you did rob... they simply will not work at all... in fact, I have tried EVERY VE and ignition map in the repo and had to "do it yourself" style and basically write my own from the beginning.

Egoinstigator · Post by **Egoinstigator** » Sat May 08, 2010 11:36 pm

Interesting... so, poor throttle response after 4000 and little boost...

I assume the initial timing was set to 15 degrees and checked via timing light? I know it is simple, but if that is off, you will not make any power / boost as you get into acceleration and load. Also, make sure the timing table is not FUBAR as your load and rpm increase.

Only other thing I can think of is the waste gate having issues... is it not closing all the way or maybe the actuator jacked up?

I just really want you to enjoy driving it man.... wish I could be there to help.

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Sat May 08, 2010 11:52 pm

well its got no throttle response really to speak of anywhere... hence no rolling burnouts.... I have the base timing set at 6 btdc as the manual states for the 4g64 franken-engine (not a 4g63 remember)...
somehow i think its the cams are off some where and the Acceleration Enrichmants are off....

I can get from 0-60 in 3.5..... minutes. 75 is about TOPS for this bastard and I cant even pass anyone on the road

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Sat May 08, 2010 11:53 pm

I wish someone was here to help me..... sucks being all on my own anyway

Egoinstigator · Post by **Egoinstigator** » Sun May 09, 2010 12:29 am

WOW! only 6 degrees? that seems low.

The accelerator enrichments shouldn't be the issue as long as you are not getting any bad stumbles / hesitations. It should still make power... I just roll into mine slowly and when it hits boost, it breaks the wheels loose easy in second gear rolling.

Is it possible you got the cam(s) off a tooth or two? I know I had to redo mine twice before I started it to make the marks line up correctly, and it was a M'F to do without the correct tools and only two hands.

This thing should be pushing your eyeballs into your skull.

The charging problem is boggling too. My 95 doesn't have that issue... I just plugged the stock harness back into it and it worked.

I'm noodling on it, but nothing else comes to mind.

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Sun May 09, 2010 7:57 am

It is possible that the relation of the crank to the pair of cams is off but as fo the cams they are timed together and correctly, its the crank timing relation that I am unsure of... and since it's gonna a shit week as for the weather around here so I probably wont tear into it till next weekend... I wish I had a set of adjustable cam gears so I could advance the exhaust cam and get a little more out of this engine.

As for the charging problem I do believe it's the alternator and I plan on exchanging it here soon,, but could I get you to do me a favor? go pop the 2 wire clip out of the back of your alternator and tell me which wire blue and yellow in my truck is Positive and which wire is negative... and if possible tell me if its a duty cycle, Pulse width or just amperage regulated... I have another alternator that I can try, but not until I know the wiring is right for sure

Egoinstigator · Post by **Egoinstigator** » Sun May 09, 2010 9:08 pm

Crank to cam timing should be easy to check too... I know it was a little hard for me to see when I was doing it all again while in the truck, but the marks are there big enough for me to feel. I did a balance shaft removal kit at the same time too.

I just checked the wires from my alternator over to the battery and the WHITE wire goes over to the little relay box on the POSITIVE side. BLUE appears to go to ground somewhere I can not see easily.

Looking down from the front as I leaned over the truck, this is what I saw on the left / turbo side without needing to unplug it:

BLUE WHITE
...............
..O.......O..

As best I can tell, it is a Pulse-Width modulated charging circuit in mine.

Wow, my diagram sucks. it is too dark for now, but I can take a photo if it would help.

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Sun May 09, 2010 9:30 pm

The double 8ga white wire goes to battery.... check
the 16-18ga blue wire is ground..... check
so that menas the smaller 16-18ga light yellow wire is the Positive PWM... check.... no wonder my alternator dont work...
Thats what I thought it was but instead I listened to my dad... old school methods failing here...lol

Man as far as the crank to cams, I swear it was right on the money when it was sitting here in my living room, and i havent taken it apart at all since, but whatever... I guess it was/is off somehow i dont know... but this thing is a slug

I will check the wastegate actuator tomorrow with shop air

Egoinstigator · Post by **Egoinstigator** » Sun May 09, 2010 9:56 pm

Good luck on it. I am root'n for ya.

screemin eagle · Post by **screemin eagle** » Sun May 09, 2010 10:53 pm

i dunno man sounds like something is all wrong you should make more than 2psi if it runs no matter what. when i asked what kind i meant who made it. if its ebay junk i wouldnt be suprised if that was an issue.

side note does the hose to your brake booster have a check valve in it?

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Sun May 09, 2010 10:54 pm

Oh, its a mitsubishi or mazda part I believe... and no, no it does not... should it?

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Sun May 09, 2010 10:56 pm

Even still tho... just came to mind....
the engine has no off boost power what so ever... it needs that turbo to get moving a little bit

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Mon May 10, 2010 9:46 pm

Well... I have determined tht it isnt the waste gate or actuator, they are in perfect working order and adjusted right, I tried setting the base timing to 15 degrees as Egoinstigator suggested, but it wouldnt even start like that, if I was running and adjusting it it would run fine but would not re start.

Ive about had it, I am seriously thinking about putting the factory engine back in the hole... it sure would suck to have to do it, but this thing is a damn slug... even in comparison to the old engine

I will check the cam timing bull crap when I get a chance.

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 11:44 pm

So guess what... I FOUND THE POWER!!!! it was hiding the whole time... until today when i let loose the beast from within... last night I loaded her up on E-85 and it didnt really make much of a difference... then today someone on msextra hooked me up with a suggestion about 1 damn setting i needed to change and BAM... there it was, I was actually like "did you hear that?" to the guy sitting passenger when i changed the setting it went from 2cycle lawn mower with less speed than a forklift to beast from hell with a vengeance... I left rubber from my parking spot at work all the way to the shop exit, out on to the street and until I hit the clutch to stop at the sign... I immedately jumped out with all the shop employees and truckers looking at me and yelled from the end of the street at the top of my lungs " I FOUND THE POWER" and did a little happy dance right there in the middle of the street... I was and still am sooo happy.... except the change also immedately made me aware of the fact that something is really wrong with the cooling system... i lose water from the heater core almost instantly once i start driving, but i hold plenty of pressure... until it overheats into the overflow bottle and blows steam everywhere... and still beat some kid in a Jeep Cherokee's ass at a quick street race... he wont be tangling with me again... lol i know it sounds pitiful, but yesterday i would have lost to an electric forklift.

so justin can and probably should tell me what i told him months ago he can tell me... and thats "I told you so" the fan wont work in this application... it cannot support the effort needed and I was wrong.

right there... hiding... can you see it? all that power.... hiding under that stupid little tab.... I mean the #1 btw... changed from 2 to 1 and BAM! Power!

I'll get some videos

Mad Menace · Post by **Mad Menace** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 11:46 pm

So guess what... I FOUND THE POWER!!!! it was hiding the whole time... until today when i let loose the beast from within... last night I loaded her up on E-85 and it didnt really make much of a difference... then today someone on msextra hooked me up with a suggestion about 1 damn setting i needed to change and BAM... there it was, I was actually like "did you hear that?" to the guy sitting passenger when i changed the setting it went from 2cycle lawn mower with less speed than a forklift to beast from hell with a vengeance... I left rubber from my parking spot at work all the way to the shop exit, out on to the street and until I hit the clutch to stop at the sign... I immedately jumped out with all the shop employees and truckers looking at me and yelled from the end of the street at the top of my lungs " I FOUND THE POWER" and did a little happy dance right there in the middle of the street... I was and still am sooo happy.... except the change also immedately made me aware of the fact that something is really wrong with the cooling system... i lose water from the heater core almost instantly once i start driving, but i hold plenty of pressure... until it overheats into the overflow bottle and blows steam everywhere.

so justin can and probably should tell me what i told him months ago he can tell me... and thats "I told you so" the fan wont work in this application... it cannot support the effort needed and I was wrong.

Project Zero G Forums

Mad Menace's Mighty Max, 11/8/2010 Take 2: Stock short block

4G63T '87 L200