My attempt at a 4g63t swap into a Mighty Max

Swaps in Progress, on the Road and on the Track.

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DropEverything
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My attempt at a 4g63t swap into a Mighty Max

Post by DropEverything »

I've been wanting to do this swap for a long time. I found a 94 Mighty Max a few months ago on craigslist and picked it up for $800, which probably was a little too much considering it doesn't have a body panel on it that's not dented, but I liked the wheels and it ran well, so I got it. The wheels in these pics are from my other truck. I think these look better, but are way heavier.
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As far as the donor goes, I knew I wanted a 1g, and I wanted to keep the cost under $1000. I checked out a few cars that I almost blew my budget on, but I waited and my patience paid off last week. I found a 90 Eclipse Turbo FWD (again, on craigslist) for $400. Of course I didn't expect much for the price, and it was about what I expected since it looked like something that had been sitting at the bottom of a pond for a couple of years. Well, the guy said it had a new head, he thinks it has an ignition problem, and he didn't know much else about it except that he was done messing with it, it hadn't been running in about three years, and it needed to get out of his yard. I figured if I even got a usable block, head, turbo, or any other major parts, it'd be worth it. When I went
to get it, it was late at night and about 20 degrees, so I didn't inspect it very thoroughly, but I checked the turbo and found no shaft play and hardly any oil. I turned it over and it sounded like the firing order or timing or something was off, but it wasn't locked up. So off we went with this pile of crap.
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It didn't take long to find one major problem... the #3 and #4 cylinders were full of coolant, so off came the head, which I was pleasantly surprised to find looks pretty much new. Unfortunately, it looks like somebody thought head gaskets were reusable.

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I also searched the net for info on the turbo on this thing, and I think it's a small 16g. And, as far as I know, it's supposed to have a 14b, right? Correct me if I'm wrong. Here's a picture of it...
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We checked for warpage of the head or block, and they were both within specs, so I put a new head gasket on it today, corrected the timing (was off by a tooth at the crank), and put new plugs and wires on it, and it fired right up. It idles a little rough, but the cam position sensor needs to be adjusted, so I'm sure that has something to do with it. The data list also shows the closed throttle position switch stuck on, and it stumbles when attempting to accelerate, so I still have some tweaking to do, but I'm on my way. Now I need to figure out what to do for a transmission.
boise-nic
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Post by boise-nic »

Nice work so far!

Yes that is a 16g. The evo 16g have a larger diameter exhaust port (2.5" I tihnk). Probably a small 16g. That's what I'm running. Good find.

Ya man, you'd be surprised how often the mech timing is off on DSMs. It's that sneaky exhaust cam rotating back just one tooth when your not looking. I've learned zip tying the belt to the cam gear is the way to go when doing a timing belt. Mine was off in my old car for years and I never knew it.

Good work so far. Keep posting.
Mad Menace
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Post by Mad Menace »

Theres like 4 or 5 of us out here with these wicked trucks under construction... we are all gonna have to compare Dyno charts one day soon, I got my truck started for the second time today, and actually feel like I got somewhere with tuning it on the megasquirt, so hopefully soon I can add to your inspiration with a few videos of mine running with the 2.4L

If you go the way of relocating the water to the front, just get yourself a piece of the 35mm waterpipe off the back of the waterpump, weld an ear to it and bolt it up to the m8 bolt location just to the right of the freeze plug, dont forget a good ammount of sealant when installing it. and also when modifying the intake manifold, make the rear section as short as possible to avoid having to beat up your brake booster.
Also know that youll have to come up with another way of getting your tach signal to the ECU or youll have to beat in your firewall or cut a hole. BOO! keep your truck whole.
93' Max, 4g64, 16v DOHC, 18G Turbo, Walbro 255L, 27" FMIC, 2.5" Exhaust, Aero Exhaust, AEM C2DI w/COP, 510cc Injectors, Running on Megasquirt 3-X.

Videos as soon as it's 100% up and running.
DropEverything
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Post by DropEverything »

I want to do before and after dyno duns. I'm sure they'll laugh when I ask them to run that (possibly) 88 HP turd. Given the off-and-on flat lifters, I'd be surprised if it puts 60 HP to the wheels. Unforunately, the closest dyno I know of around here is about a 45 min drive away, so I just hope I can find time to get out there before I do the swap.

As far as progress goes, I'm working on the car in my free time at work, and I've (thankfully) been busy the past couple of days, so I haven't really had a chance to diagnose the stumbling issue, but I'm going in tomorrow morning to try to figure it out. Hopefully I'll find the problem tomorrow and be able to start pulling everything apart next week. I just want to make sure everything is working correctly before I pull it out.
***If anybody knows where I can find a wiring diagram for a 90 Eclipse, specifically an ECU pinout, please let me know. There are some differences between the 90s and later models. The oldest manual I have is for a 92, and it's not the same.***
boise-nic
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Post by boise-nic »

DropEverything wrote:***If anybody knows where I can find a wiring diagram for a 90 Eclipse, specifically an ECU pinout, please let me know. There are some differences between the 90s and later models. The oldest manual I have is for a 92, and it's not the same.***
All my stuff was taken from a 90 talon. I "think" there are two wires on the ecu plug that need to be flipped to run a 91 and later ECU. There are other little differences like the cruise control module. Prehaps I missed it but why don't you just take the motor, harness, and ECU out of the car and install them in the max? Then you wouldn't have any compatability issues.

Question: It looks like you rear tires have some width to them...How wide are those...255? I'm wondering how fat a tire I can cram under the rears and not have any rubbing issues.
DropEverything
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Post by DropEverything »

boise-nic wrote: Question: It looks like you rear tires have some width to them...How wide are those...255? I'm wondering how fat a tire I can cram under the rears and not have any rubbing issues.
The tires are 245/35/20s on 20x9 wheels (maybe 9.5, but I'm pretty sure they're 9") with a 30mm offset. The lips on the bedsides and fenders were already trimmed when I got it and the back was lowered about 5". They just barely clear the bed and the front will rub a little with the steering at full lock. And they suck to turn at low speeds without power steering. They do fill the fenders nicely though.

About the wiring diagram: I am using the harness and everything from the 90, but I want to get it all running right before I pull it out. I was having a problem trying to figure out which pin I needed to check to find out what was going on with the idle switch b/c the pin that comes from the idle switch on a 92 (the diagram I have) is (I think) coming from the MAF on the 90. I know... it's confusing the crap out of me too.
But..... I may just be chasing a ghost anyways b/c, after tearing my hair out for a while trying to figure out why a seemingly okay circuit was causing an incorrect signal, I decided to check the part number on the ECU this morning and it's not what's supposed to be in there. As far as I can tell, the one I have is for a 91-94 non-turbo car... :cry: It's definitely a different number either way. I'm trying to get in touch with the guy I bought the car from to see if he has the original. If he does, maybe there's nothing wrong with it considering all the other stuff that was wrong with the car. If not, I can probably get a re-man'd one for about $200, so it's not the end of the world. If anybody has any extra ECUs laying around, the part # I need is MD128625. The one I have is a MD166255 if anybody needs it.
DropEverything
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Post by DropEverything »

Sorry it took so long to update. Progress has been kinda slow, but this is where I've made it so far:
After getting the engine running (sort of... b/c of the wrong ECU), we pulled everything out and started tearing it apart and cleaning everything up. Thankfully, it looks like someone has gone through and rebuilt this thing! We took a couple of the caps off to check the rod bearings, and they looked brand new. Unfortunately, someone went crazy with the orange sealant on ALL of the gaskets, and a lot of it got into some orifices I wouldn't want it, so I'm taking everything back off (oil pump, pan, valve cover, etc...) and resealing it with OE gaskets without all of the sealant.
I also scored a transmission this weekend and a new bed since mine was a little beyond saving. It took me all day Sunday and about 400 miles-worth of driving, but it was worth it.
Enough talk. Here are the pictures...
Pulled the engine.
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Painted the block and vlave cover.
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Flipped and clocked the turbo.
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And I'm going to try to use an intake from a 3G Eclipse with a 2.4L engine. Most of the holes line up, but the EGR is on the wrong end, the 3G has the injectors in the manifold, and the ports are a little bit smaller, so it has some flaws to work out, but we'll see how it goes...
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