cylinder head
Moderators: DJpowerHaus, mattmartindrift
cylinder head
When doing the doch head swap are you guys having any port work or larger valves put in done? I have acess to having it done cheap. Any valve spring or valvetrain upgrades needed? I'm wanting to get around 500 hp out of this 2.4/2.0 combo with some minor mods. Thanks
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Bill Hincher
- Donating Member
- Posts: 1625
- Joined: Thu Jun 22, 2006 8:57 pm
- Location: Toledo,Ohio
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hello Oldie,
take a look at this article,
http://www.kidzuku.com/StrokeOrNot.pdf
Its an excellent read for the foundation of building the G series engine
I personally will be building the tall block 4G64 with the 2.0 crank with long rods
as far as updating the 2.0l DOHC head, I think improving the exaust side cam may be the only thing required to handle the extra boost
take a look at this article,
http://www.kidzuku.com/StrokeOrNot.pdf
Its an excellent read for the foundation of building the G series engine
I personally will be building the tall block 4G64 with the 2.0 crank with long rods
as far as updating the 2.0l DOHC head, I think improving the exaust side cam may be the only thing required to handle the extra boost
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jeffball610
- Too Much Time on His Hands
- Posts: 619
- Joined: Wed Feb 22, 2006 5:29 am
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
The 1G head flows great in stock form. Cams and springs are all you'll need. If you're doing more than drag racing, you might think about upgraded valves, but nothing larger than stock. Large valves are only beneficial for high HP (over 600) and top end power. If you plan to do anything other than drag race, stay away from porting the 1G head.
On the flip side, the 2G can benefit from some slight intake porting. The intake runners are smaller, although at a better angle than the 1G head.
In any case, if you really want to do some head work, you can do some light port work to the valve areas to de-shroud around the valve guides. Once you take a good look at a bare head, you'll see how large the ports are and you won't want to go much bigger. You might also look around online at some shops that do some of this port work and they will recommend it only for high HP motors and top end performance.
For a 2.1L combo (2.4L block/2.0L crank) you'll want some springs in there so you can rev to its potential of 10K RPM. Do some general searches on this combo and you'll be happy with what you see.
Is anyone ever going to do a 2.1L 10K RPM All-Motor car or do I still have to get off my butt and do it some day?
On the flip side, the 2G can benefit from some slight intake porting. The intake runners are smaller, although at a better angle than the 1G head.
In any case, if you really want to do some head work, you can do some light port work to the valve areas to de-shroud around the valve guides. Once you take a good look at a bare head, you'll see how large the ports are and you won't want to go much bigger. You might also look around online at some shops that do some of this port work and they will recommend it only for high HP motors and top end performance.
For a 2.1L combo (2.4L block/2.0L crank) you'll want some springs in there so you can rev to its potential of 10K RPM. Do some general searches on this combo and you'll be happy with what you see.
Is anyone ever going to do a 2.1L 10K RPM All-Motor car or do I still have to get off my butt and do it some day?
Do it in a Datsun!
1972 Datsun 510
7-bolt 4G63T, EVO 9 pistons and rods, Garrett GT3076R, "flipped" stock intake, Toyota R154, Z31 R200 w/ CVs
1972 Datsun 510
7-bolt 4G63T, EVO 9 pistons and rods, Garrett GT3076R, "flipped" stock intake, Toyota R154, Z31 R200 w/ CVs
I got a chance to knock the bent valves out of my head and look at it this week for cracks. Found none so went on and set it on the porting stand to start with the gasket matching and bowl blending. Then going to start to work. thanks to you guys with input Bill that was some good reading with alot of info.