My 2.4L wideblock is almost done!!!

All the oily, spinning bits

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DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Last week we got my 6 bolt 2.4L wideblock bottom end done.

Here is what's done:
Wiseco 2.4L +.020 Forged Pistons
Scat H beam rods w/ ARP bolts
91 D50 2.4L block honed to 3.4251" from 3.4060"
Stock 100mm stroke polished forged crank
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
Clevite 77 main bearings STD (a little loose)
Clevite 77 rod bearings STD (a little tight)
Cleaned block (to be painted) inside and out (removed oil gallery plugs).
Cleaned Crank
Jackson Auto Machine Gasket set (w/o Cometic HG)
Rings are filed to be a little loose.
Junkyard timing sprockets and CORRECT bolts for all components on block(look like new too).
B.S. Elimination (welded lower shaft, bolt + copper crush washer on BS tensioner hole, freeze plug in upper BS hole)
Reused stock helical cut oil pump gears.
No Oil Squirters.
Still need a 1G DOHC oil pan (SOHC pan wont clear ARP hardware).
Still need a clean DOHC timing cover....
Non turbo water pipe (no water outlets for turbo or water cooled oil cooler)
Hyundai Valvecover (to be painted)
'90 air/oil oil cooler cleaned inside and out.
Junkyard pickup truck oil cooler (its huge and as dense as my Setrab... should make up for the oil pressure gained by loosing the B.S and squirters)


The head is going to be stock at first. Cleaned up, but stock. I will get a spare head with springs, retainers, cams, new valve stem seals and a better HG before I really get this thing cranked up. I bought a 1G timing set from Slow Boy Racing. They shipped a 2.0 belt instead of the 2.4 belt. We are working on correcting this. The pulleys and belt are OEM, the tensioner is not. I will be using a junkyard water pump as well. No need to spend $$ on a new one when this one is fine and I don't plan on putting huge miles on the car and the used pump is in great condition.


Turns out there is no way to use the SOHC oil cover on a DOHC motor. The timing marks are different, the oil pumps are different (longer shafts on the DOHC), Mounting bolts for the DOHC tensioner are different, even the sheet metal plate between the B.S crank gear and the timing crank gear are different. Pitty I bought a brand new front cover w/pump for $60.. its for sale (SOHC only!)

I still need an oil pan too. I think I can use the SOHC pickup in the DOHC pan. I can check the clearance with a stock front cover bolted to the oil pan.... I can adjust it if I need to :-D. Is a DOHC turbo pan different from a DOHC n/t pan? besides the turbo oil drain flange.

I have photos at home and I wont get back from TX for a week. UPDATES TO COME!
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
underdog
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Post by underdog »

Sounds like you're making great progress! Good luck with it.

To answer your question, the 4G63 non-turbo oil pan is exactly the same as the turbo oil pan, but doesn't have the drain hole/screw holes for the drain tube. The Flat spot is there for it, so you could drill out your own and be good to go. I welded two studs to the inside of the oil pan which makes bolting and unbolting the drain tube flange a breeze.
Tom<br><a href='http://starion.turbomirage.com' target='_blank'>4G63 Starion</a><br><a href='http://www.turbomirage.com' target='_blank'>4G63 Mirage</a>
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Awesome.. that's what I was hoping for. I really wanted to make my own setup since my current car's leaks like crazy through the gasket. I also have a HUGE -AN line that could double as a turbo brace its so huge.

Here are some photos.. sorry for the delay.
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and here is a photo of the turbo I'm buying... compared to the size of Lou's foot and a book. I still need to buy the bullseye turbine housing.
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
4GFC
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Post by 4GFC »

AWESOME. MORE PICS!

JoL
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Post by JoL »

anyone know if the 7 bolt n/a oil pan different than the 6 bolt's?
i would give djpowerhaus it if they are the same
(assuming you pay for shipping :rolleyes: )
peregrine
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Post by peregrine »

<!--QuoteBegin-JoL+Jun 20 2005, 03:52 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (JoL @ Jun 20 2005, 03:52 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> anyone know if the 7 bolt n/a oil pan different than the 6 bolt's?
i would give djpowerhaus it if they are the same
(assuming you pay for shipping :rolleyes: ) [/quote]
theyre totally different.
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ali3baba
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Post by ali3baba »

any more progress, DJ?
Siance
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Post by Siance »

How much money do you have in it so far...guess?
There is always someone faster!!!
i'm boosted
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Post by i'm boosted »

I have a Holset turbo in the garage. Is it the HX35 or HX 40?

-Brian
donny
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Post by donny »

If you are still looking for a 1g Oil pan I think we have one laying around the shop. I might even have one with the oil return that is junk for pretty cheap if you wanna make up your own oil return somehow. *cut and weld in a bung*.

Also i saw you said std bearings tight and loose? if you cut it. Shouldn't you have just gotten the bearings for what you got it cut for? :unsure: Maybe i read it wrong. Any parts for a dsm let me know people.

Thanks

-Don
machvr4
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Post by machvr4 »

DJ I have 4 or 5 1G 6 bolt oilpans I'm in Beltsville, MD. Gimme your address so I can get the oil pan out to you for free.




Geoff

92VR4
92 Tsi AWD
89 AWD Turbo Colt





send me your address to: morgang@ncr.disa.mil


Also: I'm looking for a D50 wide block as well. So any info on where I can find one would be helpful

Hey I just noticed Underdog made it to this site as well. What's up Tom?
Did you make it to Buschurs this past weekend?


DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

I havent seen much of Tom since forever ago when it was still Tom and Gail. I already found an oil pan for my thing. Got it off a 1.8L Hyundai motor.. same one I got my valve cover off of. It was in damn mint condition (minus the sudge).

I'd like to see what you're up to though. Are you working with any shops? I'm trying to make some DSM shop friends in the tri-state area. Planning on doing a national drift series next year.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
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