starting the swap

slowquest · Post by **slowquest** » Thu Jun 23, 2005 4:43 pm

gonna swap in a 4g64 (2.4 wideblock) and was wondering where the best place to get parts for the internal engine would be. looking for GOOD pistons, and rods especially. gonna be running a super25g at around 30psi hopefully, and need something that will hold up REALLY well. i don't need drag race parts, but do need stuff that will hold up to 10-12k rpms, for a long time :blink:

peregrine · Post by **peregrine** » Thu Jun 23, 2005 7:01 pm

i hope this post is a joke before i go off <_<

4GFC · Post by **4GFC** » Fri Jun 24, 2005 1:22 pm

You aren't going to rev a 4G64 to 12K...

slowquest · Post by **slowquest** » Fri Jun 24, 2005 5:25 pm

2.4 block, 2.0 crank, makes a high revving 2.1. not much for low end grunt. but i won't need it. this car will be running the silver state classic, hopefully early next year, my "stock" quest will run it later this year in the 130 class, the other quest will run it in unlimited, hoping to average over 200 for the 92 mile course. need it to rev good with a lot of boost to be able to pull those numbers. and no, this is not joke, go i guess you gotta go off on me now

peregrine · Post by **peregrine** » Fri Jun 24, 2005 7:53 pm

</div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (slowquest @ Jun 24 2005, 09:25 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> 2.4 block, 2.0 crank, makes a high revving 2.1. not much for low end grunt. but i won't need it. this car will be running the silver state classic, hopefully early next year, my "stock" quest will run it later this year in the 130 class, the other quest will run it in unlimited, hoping to average over 200 for the 92 mile course. need it to rev good with a lot of boost to be able to pull those numbers. and no, this is not joke, go i guess you gotta go off on me now

[/quote]
i hope youve done alot of research into an aftermarket dry sump oiling system and figured out what to do about cooling because your gonna need it. also the 2.1 wont rev like you think it will. maybe 9500 max and thats with a pretty gnarly valvetrain. im not trying to piss on your hopes just give you a reality check. ive been to the silver state classic a few times (i live here) and seen what some of these guys have done to make their cars semi reliable for the duration and its not cheap. good luck.

Mike · Post by **Mike** » Fri Jun 24, 2005 10:51 pm

It's doable, checkout magnus motorsports. The stock head and bottom end are safe to 8500RPM on a 2.0L and 7500 on a 2.3L which has a worse rod ratio then a 2.4L. A 2.1L with careful planning and aftermarket components will go 10+ easy. Shepherd used to shift at 10K on his 2.0L.

slowquest · Post by **slowquest** » Mon Jun 27, 2005 5:11 pm

already looked around the site at magnus. need to get ahold of them to see what length rod they run with their 2.1L. and see if they sell just components. i've got some special ideas in mind with some of the machine work, so really don't want to just buy one of their engines.

Post by **DJpowerHaus** » Tue Jun 28, 2005 4:18 am

Shep isnt doing it for 93 miles in the desert either. I'm not the kind of person to say "dont try it" but this comes close. I dont see you finding any better parts for the 2.1 than Magnus sells other than specing it out yourself to the lowest bidder. Serious stuff.

I doubt you've even calculated the power required with the C.D. of a Starion (0.32) to go 200mph (I'd give you a #, but I have no clue about the frontal area of a SQ).

Why does it have to be revolution over evolution. Put a stock 2.0 in it and see how you like it before you go all crazy. What's the entry fee for that event? Its pretty outrageous if I remember correctly. It'd be a shame to hand over that entrance fee ($?$?) just to throw a rod at 200mph and toast the car (prepped car) and engine ($2000 miniumum) at mile marker 2.

I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and say you've got a) money, B) know-how and/or c) creativity. This can get you pretty far, but there is still a learning curve and alot of mistakes if you're doing something like that intended to do something like that.

On that note. What can we do for you? I'd say to purchase a longblock form a supplier, unless you've got a friend with a sprintcar, nascar, IRL motor builder. It will take alot of little things to get your plans to come together. Its usually my moto that "we're not building a formula car". (Details become less imporant the more boost you run). This is a little sillier though. The details do count.

Oiling is a big issue at those RPMs, with that boost at that time. 5 stage dry sumps are available on ebay all the time for cheap. Give that a shot. Quality NASCAR radiators can be found there too.

Oh, boy... dont know what to say. Its 4:17 AM and I'm frustrated and tired. Sorry.

slowquest · Post by **slowquest** » Tue Jun 28, 2005 10:14 am

well, i've got an engine builder that's done a few other engines for me, all 1/4 mile stuff mind you, that says it'll hold together at 12k. even for the 92 miles. i'm hoping to get the "stock" quest together enough to do a few high rpm runs around here in anticipation of running out there. i wasn't planning on doing a dry sump system, just a wet sump with an 8 qt. accumalator. i'm really wanting to get alot of circulation with the oil, hoping that will help the cooling. I know Magnus is a great place to get stuff, just wondering about there tech help with trying to do something of this magnitude. I won't be buying a long block, or short block for that matter, because of some of the "special" maching plans I have for this engine, an external pressurized system for piston squirters is one such example. So I'm very limited on what I can just buy from someone.