i heard a story (balance shaft elimination)

mr.andaya · Post by **mr.andaya** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 11:28 pm

"they said theirs moved in the pump"

whats that mean? sounds like improper installation to me.

-joe

jeffball610 · Post by **jeffball610** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 12:12 am

Sometimes the elimination of the weight off of the shaft can unsettle the oil pump gears and chew up the front case. This is not uncommon. Most people use a new front case when doing this mod. Also, some ebay knock off stub shafts will not supply enough oil to the stub shaft causing it to seize.

Most front cases are destroyed due to not putting thread lock on the bolt for the stubby shaft. I lost my first one that way. Live and learn.

Removing the counter weight from the rear balance shaft is not a bad idea. Even AMS is selling these for the 4G63 series. I guess they think $150 is a good price for a stock machined shaft.(or $300 without a core) I'm sure a good machine shop can do it much cheaper and do just as good a job.

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/AMS- ... e.com.html

They also explain what I just said in better language. However, Mitsubishi thought the 4G61 was fine with the stub shaft and no other provisions for balance shafts. So it can't be all that bad right?

89coltgt · Post by **89coltgt** » Thu Mar 05, 2009 10:04 am

You will be fine doing this as long as you use oem parts, the 4g61 colt/summit/mirages come from Mitsu like this so you should not have a problem. Some have used ebay stub shafts and had a failure due to this. Some prefer to turn the counterwight off of the rear balance shaft and use this since it has a bearing and will help support some side loading on the gears/case.

OLDIE · Post by **OLDIE** » Thu May 14, 2009 9:07 pm

89coltgt wrote:You will be fine doing this as long as you use oem parts, the 4g61 colt/summit/mirages come from Mitsu like this so you should not have a problem. Some have used ebay stub shafts and had a failure due to this. Some prefer to turn the counterwight off of the rear balance shaft and use this since it has a bearing and will help support some side loading on the gears/case.

IMHO That's definately the better way to do it and that's the way mine is done

ixnay · Post by **ixnay** » Fri May 15, 2009 3:10 am

mitsubishi sell an elimination kit! buy it!

89coltgt · Post by **89coltgt** » Fri May 15, 2009 9:28 am

If you are planning to rev high(8.5k+) on a regular basis, the modified rear shaft is the way to go, your oil pump will thank you.

titantsi · Post by **titantsi** » Fri May 15, 2009 1:06 pm

everyone i know has never had a problem. i never buy the kit. i just cut the shaft off and weld the hole shut on the end. on the front shaft i remove it knock the bearings out turn them and put them back in so they block the oil holes. then jb weld the hole in the cover.

DoubleJ · Post by **DoubleJ** » Sat May 16, 2009 12:19 am

the "new" way to do it instead of just cutting out the shaft competely is to just rebalance the shaft.

I personally know 2 cars that are running this due to oil pump problems. 1 with a 42r turbo and another with a 35r.

Ive never personally had any problems with having a stub shaft. But like you guys are saying there are horror stories of oil pump failures from completely removing the shaft.

so... + 1 for rebalancing the shaft