Are the 4G63 turbo and non turbo guts the same?

All the oily, spinning bits

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Joel07
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Post by Joel07 »

Well, I've been brainstorming all day (one of my favorite things to do, brainstorm about new projects that will never get finished :P ), and I was wondering how much difference there is in the turbo and non turbo 4G63. Since the turbo 1G's are not real real easy to find (around here anyway), I was thinking I could probably get a non turbo one for a whole lot cheaper. If it's a matter of something like pistons or so forth, I'm not worried about that since I plan on going through it anyway. I thought maybe this way I could go ahead and get it running N/A, and then build my own turbo setup for it later. I've been wanting to build my own setup anyway, and this would give me the chance to do it.

So, is stuff like the intake, block, crank, and so forth the same? I am a machinist, and have worked on plenty of the heads, and as far as I can tell, all the 1G heads are the same (turbo/non turbo 4G63). Anyway, maybe someone can enlighten me before I go make an ass of myself on the DSM boards... :D
Well, now I've got the truck, should I do the swap? :)<br><a href='http://www.handcraftedracing.com' target='_blank'>http://www.handcraftedracing.com</a><br><a href='http://storm.prohosting.com/likness' target='_blank'>http://storm.prohosting.com/likness</a>
scum
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Post by scum »

oil squirters?
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

Everyone might bitch an moan about how much of a pain it would be, but I dont see why you couldnt. The block, head and intake are the same. THere is just alot of little stuff that you might need to change over time to make it a viable turbo car. You could always set it up NA and then swap out the NA bottom end and cams. There is also some other little stuff like the water pipe that runs under the exhaust and probably the thermostat housing on the rear of the head. All of this can be modified if you have a welder though.

Turbo motors arent that hard to find... Try DSMtrader.com or even ebay. And if you're really crazy try any JDM motor importer for a low milage Evo3 or GVR4 motor.

As far as a part by part conversion.. you have to worry about the harness, ECU, pistons, oil squirters, exhaust manifold, cams. Most of this info can be found on DSM forums and FAQs, but I'll answer whatever I know.

If a 4G63T is too hard to come by you have another option... build the hell out of it. SOme people are building wideblock 4G64s (G64B) motors... 2.4 with the Starion bellhousing and a 2.0 head. You'll be replacing or upgrading most parts on the motor and you'll have a 500+ hp motor in the end with a decent about of torque and its still as revy as the 2.0. You can also put it on a 2.6 truck or Starion tranny.
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Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
Joel07
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Post by Joel07 »

Sooooooo, if I find a Mitsu or D50 with the 2.4 already in it, I could just swap in the 2.0 head, intake, manifold, ecm, harness and everything? Hmmmm, if I could just find one with the rings gone or something, I could probably get it for dirt cheap...

As far as the crank and rods go on the non turbo 2.0, what is the difference? If the only difference in the bottom end is the pistons and oil squirters, I can add those before I put the turbo on, right? What I was thinking was, I'm gonna go ahead and build the bottom end up anyway, so if there's only minor differences, I could just start with a regular motor, and then add the turbo later. I would build it low compression and have everything set up for the turbo, and just have to settle for a turd until I can get the turbo on it.

I was thinking that way I could build my own turbo setup and I probably wouldn't go water cooled, probably go with a custom manifold and a T3/T4 hybrid into a FMIC. I've been wanting to build my own setup anyway, and I'm not afraid of fabrication or welding...

Another question (I know I'm loading them on now): Where can I find the wide pattern 2.0? Is that the 2.0 in the trucks? I think if I go with a wide pattern motor, I'd go ahead with the 2.4, but I'm just trying to get an idea for going j/y hunting.
Well, now I've got the truck, should I do the swap? :)<br><a href='http://www.handcraftedracing.com' target='_blank'>http://www.handcraftedracing.com</a><br><a href='http://storm.prohosting.com/likness' target='_blank'>http://storm.prohosting.com/likness</a>
Kapt. Krunch
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Post by Kapt. Krunch »

These stats are for 1st gen 4g63 engines. The N/T is 9:1 compression...the Turbo is 7:8. The cams are different but the rods etc aren't . The turbo has quirters and that's about it. I heard that the exhaust valves on the turbo were different as well.
Rob
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Mike
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Post by Mike »

Where do you live? If you live anywhere in the US, it should not be hard to find a turbo motor, and would be much easier and cheaper. First, contact your local DSM chapter and see if anyone has one for sale. Then vist <a href='http://www.gopartstrader.com/' target='_blank'>http://www.gopartstrader.com/</a> and <a href='http://www.dsmtuners.com/classifieds/' target='_blank'>http://www.dsmtuners.com/classifieds/</a>

Still nothing? Goto <a href='http://www.usedpartscentral.com/' target='_blank'>http://www.usedpartscentral.com/</a> and select your state to obtain a list of all the junkyards. This will take a good mornings time, but call each one and make a list of all the yards that have one, the price, miles, and condition.

If nothing else there are several importers that will sell you a used longblock with anywhere from 30-60K miles for around $1300. Also check ebay.
Mike
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Post by Mike »

I'm pretty sure there isn't a difference between the cranks since the crankshafts use for stroking the 4g63 is a nonturbo 4g64 crank. Obviously you will want to check the crank for any wear or damage. You cannot grind these cranks though since they use a hardened nitride coating or something. Only thing you can do is polish them.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

anybody have CAPS? Or the DSM factory service manual CD that has every year on it? I only have the freeby 90 manual.

I'm also looking for a DETAILED factory manual for engine rebuilding.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
DJpowerHaus
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Post by DJpowerHaus »

that's what I'm worried about.
Image
Getting the engine bolted in is about 10% of the way there.
The next 80% can go quickly with help and skill.
That last 10% takes about as long as the 90% that came before it.
AbsurdParadox
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Post by AbsurdParadox »

<!--QuoteBegin-Mike+Jan 20 2005, 06:45 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (Mike @ Jan 20 2005, 06:45 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> If nothing else there are several importers that will sell you a used longblock with anywhere from 30-60K miles for around $1300. Also check ebay. [/quote]
Yeah, I found a complete JDM Galant VR4 frontclip on ebay for like $2k shipped from RSImports I believe it was. 90k KM's on it, and I was able to turn around and sell the tranny and other things to get the cost of the engine close to $1k, and it got me everything I needed, including ECU, wiring harness, etc. Also, a side benefit for me was that I've never worked on the 4g63 before so it was nice to see where everything went before I pulled it out. Oh, and engine came with a warranty to... though its been 6 months since I bought it, not yet installed, and they probably screw ya into just saying forget it if the engine is infact bad, like most warranties on big-ass things that cost $500+ to ship.
screemin eagle
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Post by screemin eagle »

only difference in the blocks are the oil squirters wich could be tapped crank and rods are the same heads are the same minus the cams valves are diff from factory but if you get the head rebuilt most machinests use the same valves for N/A or turbo no side effects intakes are the same minus one vacume nipple for the blow off valve nt throttle body will work on a turbo car its bigger too 60mm just different mounting for the i/c pipe pistons different then there are the cooling parts water pip t stat housing ect all different CAS are the same coilpack and all that are the same injecters different i think thats it
you could try www.mitsubishigraveyard.com for parts as well
88 conquest 4g63 now sporting a crankwalked boat anchor
Yeti
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Post by Yeti »

Yes, basically they're the same.

I got an engine and everything from a Galant GTi (GSX to the US users), and it has an EPROM ECU, Knock Sensor and oil squirters.

<a href='http://www.coltturbo.com/colt2003/oil1.jpg' target='_blank'>http://www.coltturbo.com/colt2003/oil1.jpg</a>

Also, it's 9.0 to 1 compression, and so is the Evo 3, so should be fine if not running a lot of boost.

It's being rebuilt to go into my colt.

I'm also on the lookout for another one of these engines, as I had a spare wide 4G63 turbo from a Lancer turbo, and a lancer turbo to put it into. Planning to rebuild it as a 16v wide engine after reading this site! Thanks!

Might keep it in case I get this Starion I'm eyein up just now, 2.0 litre one :P
Mike
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Post by Mike »

What country are you in? Is this a RWD lancer turbo? I've only heard of them coming with 1.8L turbos. FYI, I wouldn't expect the naturally aspirated pistons to yield the same results as a set of turbo pistons.
Yeti
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Post by Yeti »

I'm in the UK.

We never got ANY official model of Mitsubishi with the 16v 4G63T in it, so import Galant VR4s and Evo 1/2/3s are as rare as hen's teeth, and the shipping costs of importing an engine would make it way too expensive.

What model did you say you thought only came as 1.8 turbo?

My Lancer turbo is a RWD one, 2.0 4G63T, similar running gear to the Starion, but no LSD :angry:

I have one of these engines in it just now, but the electrics give me constant headaches, so the sooner I can get one of 16v engines in it, the better!

I'm rebuilding one of the narrow 4G63T 16v engines for my Colt (FWD), and then I'll start work on the Lancer.
Mike
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Post by Mike »

In the US, we only got FWD and AWD galants. The 1.8L RWD Turbo Galant is a model from Japan.
Yeti
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Post by Yeti »

Galant Models in the UK:

1981-1984 (?) 2.0 RWD turbo 8v (wide)
1984-1988 2.0 FWD turbo 8v (unknown)
1988-1993 2.0 FWD & AWD NON turbo 16v (narrow)

We also got the Lancer and Sapporro turbos around 1981-1984 as well.

You can see my cars (what's left of them!) here: <a href='http://www.coltturbo.com' target='_blank'>http://www.coltturbo.com</a>
SQadmin
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Post by SQadmin »

So do you need us to gather some heads, put them on a palet and send them over there?
aka DJpowerHaus, who forgot to switch back to the right name.
Yeti
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Post by Yeti »

There's not that many of these cars left around BTH, most of the owners are in the 2000EX section of <a href='http://www.lancerregister.com' target='_blank'>http://www.lancerregister.com</a>.

If the 16v heads are cheap over there, then great - but the Galant GTi's are plentiful in the scrappies here, thanks to expensive driveshafts, rear diffs and parts for the Four Wheel Steering systems.

More importantly, I need a cheap source for 450 or 510cc injectors, turbo camshafts and the odd Cyclone manifold (for FWD conversions running lower boost).

Oh, and a turbo exhaust manifold or two as well, but I'll use custom ones so I can use the Garrett turbos instead of the Mitsu ones.
DSSA
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Post by DSSA »

<!--QuoteBegin-screemin eagle+Feb 3 2005, 07:20 AM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (screemin eagle @ Feb 3 2005, 07:20 AM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'><!--QuoteEBegin--> valves are diff from factory but if you get the head rebuilt most machinests use the same valves for N/A or turbo no side effects intakes are the same minus one vacume nipple for the blow off valve nt throttle body will work on a turbo car its bigger too 60mm [/quote]
The valves are actually the same (there's no difference between the turbo and non-turbo 90-94 4G63 valves).

As far as the NT throttle body, look a little closer at it. The inlet of the t-body is slightly bigger, but the actual butterfly and inner passage are the same size as the turbo units--there's no flow advantage there.
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