Turbo selection for MM

boise-nic · Post by **boise-nic** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 1:48 pm

Short term poster, long term lurker here...

I am doing the standard 4g63 swap into a MM. The engine right now is a basic stock motor with 750 cc's and a 16G. Decent enough power in a DSM till the turbo decided to smoke and go bad.
My delemma is: Do I rebuild the turbo and use it in the MM or go with a larger garrett turbo and a top mount manifold. The second choice would make clearances easier but I have no idea what even a 16G would feel like in a MM. What is a useable power level with stock or close to stock rear end and transmission. I do not want to make a traction-less tire frier with a horrible power band so I'm sort of against larger turbos than a 16g. Any advice?

PacmanDSM · Post by **PacmanDSM** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 2:13 pm

I wouldn't bother upgrading to anything bigger than a 16G. Iv heard around 350whp is about the limit on the stock tranny and that is more than enough power for the street depending on what your goal is for the truck. It is also more than enough to fry the tires on the stock suspension. However with good tires and a little suspension work it could make a fun little truck I think. As for the top mount you should check this thread out. http://projectzerog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1222 you could top mount your 16G.

boise-nic · Post by **boise-nic** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:12 pm

good advice. Its a small 16G so I don't think it would quite make 300 hp. But I do like a nice flat power band with quick spool. I think it would be quite fun in a MM.

89coltgt · Post by **89coltgt** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:32 pm

The small 16g will make over 300hp, you will have traction issues, I have a chinabay 16g on my d50 and it blows the (tire) off at 10 psi. It will be a blast though

I am going with an lsd diff and I will be swapping out the 16g for a better turbo.

boise-nic · Post by **boise-nic** » Mon Feb 16, 2009 1:22 pm

^were you having traction issues with an open diff? I could definately see that happening. I wonder if a decent set of tires and some better damping would help with traction. On one hand you have a motor sending a lot of power to drive wheels with little weight over them. BUT: You also have very little interia (i.e. weight) to resist against. Not sure how they square up with each other. Should be interesting to find out!

What are you going to upgrade the 16G to? I am going to keep running mine because I love the powerband and the way it hits at 15psi. If it hit hard in a 3300 lb car I can't imagine what a 2000 lb truck would feel like. I am needing to get it rebuilt, it has pretty bad shaft play and was making the motor smoke.

boise-nic · Post by **boise-nic** » Mon Feb 16, 2009 3:02 pm

I am also considering a dual stage boost controler to help things out a bit. Say 10 psi (or whatever the wastegate spring is set at) for low boost in 1st and 2nd gear then 15-20 psi for 3-5 gear.

89coltgt · Post by **89coltgt** » Mon Feb 16, 2009 6:04 pm

I may run a 14b for a while.

boise-nic · Post by **boise-nic** » Sat Feb 21, 2009 9:19 pm

I think I'll just have my small 16G rebuilt. I see there are rebuild kits for the DIY person but (correct me if I am wrong), I still need to have it sent in to be balanced. Is this good practive or absolutely nessesary for the turbo. I'm not certain where to send it in if it does require a balancing afterwards. I plan on a top mount setup and running no coolant line (I will be running a large oil cooler). Is it as simple as capping off the coolant orfices of the center section?

boise-nic · Post by **boise-nic** » Mon Feb 23, 2009 7:57 pm

Does anyone have any recommendations for having the turbo spin balanced? There is not place locally that will do it.

AllanL · Post by **AllanL** » Tue Feb 24, 2009 4:48 am

here's an interesting article on rebuilding turbos:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/article ... t-1-a.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/article ... t-2-a.html

contact him

last i heard $150 for a complete rebuild

hth

GRNDSM · Post by **GRNDSM** » Wed Feb 25, 2009 1:59 am

EVO8 16G turbos are closer to the old school 20Gs and you can pick them up for around $200, usually with low miles... However, install isn't trevial and it will require at the very minimal alternator relocation (good idea in any case

).

boise-nic · Post by **boise-nic** » Wed Feb 25, 2009 9:15 pm

GRNDSM wrote:EVO8 16G turbos are closer to the old school 20Gs and you can pick them up for around $200, usually with low miles... However, install isn't trevial and it will require at the very minimal alternator relocation (good idea in any case ).

After looking at the price of evo 16g's I think better for me just to buy a new one than buy the rebuild kit and spend money of having it rebuilt. Can you please clarify why installation isn't trivial? It is a direct swap for DSMs and should bolt directly up to the stock mitsu 4 bolt flange if I'm not mistaken. Why would an alternator relocation kit be required. I do agree that it would be a good idea to relocate the alternator back to where the AC compressor was though. The combination of dripping power steering fluid and heat from the down pipe fried several alternators in my eclipse. I think buscher makes a kit for that though. Just one more thing for me to research.

GRNDSM · Post by **GRNDSM** » Thu Feb 26, 2009 12:45 am

Lets clarify something:

-EVO3 16G is a direct bolt-in for DSM (this a very good and popular turbo)
-EVO8 16G is bigger but it is pointing in the "wrong" direction, so it is vertually impossible to install it in a DSM. However, it is perfect for RWD 4g63 configuration!

Check out my site on my EVO8 16G turbo install. You interfere with the block, water pump, water line, and alternator.

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Turbo selection for MM

Turbo selection for MM

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